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Thanks to everyone on this board and over at Ask Andy's, I've managed to gather the following helpful recommendations on suits for us height-disadvantaged people. Special thanks goes to Spalla, for his extremely insightful recommendations on European tailoring.
The jacket:
- The waist button should be high, a little above where the ribcage ends. That is, if you'd like to enhance your leg height. Flusser recommends that the waist button be positioned so that the torso and legs are both at their maximum length, but hell if I know where that is.
- The jacket should be on the short side, just enough to cover your seat.
- The sleeves should taper to your wrists.
- The pockets shouldn't be too high.
- The armholes should be as high as possible. The point of these last two recommendations is the make the line between the armpit and the pocket as long as possible, giving the impression of height.
- I haven't heard much about shoulder pads, but I think the consensus is: go for the thin ones.
Ok, one thing eludes me: How do I properly position the breast pocket? I see pictures with it high, I see pictures with it low. Where is the recommended position for the breast pocket for a short person?
And as for trouser help, I don't have any, because some people like pleats and others don't, and some people like cuffs and some don't. I personally don't mind high-rise trousers without cuffs, and at the most a single pleat, with a light break, but that's just me.
Any thoughts/suggestions? I'm really angsting over the breast pocket issue. I spend too much time thinking about stuff like this.
The jacket:
- The waist button should be high, a little above where the ribcage ends. That is, if you'd like to enhance your leg height. Flusser recommends that the waist button be positioned so that the torso and legs are both at their maximum length, but hell if I know where that is.
- The jacket should be on the short side, just enough to cover your seat.
- The sleeves should taper to your wrists.
- The pockets shouldn't be too high.
- The armholes should be as high as possible. The point of these last two recommendations is the make the line between the armpit and the pocket as long as possible, giving the impression of height.
- I haven't heard much about shoulder pads, but I think the consensus is: go for the thin ones.
Ok, one thing eludes me: How do I properly position the breast pocket? I see pictures with it high, I see pictures with it low. Where is the recommended position for the breast pocket for a short person?
And as for trouser help, I don't have any, because some people like pleats and others don't, and some people like cuffs and some don't. I personally don't mind high-rise trousers without cuffs, and at the most a single pleat, with a light break, but that's just me.
Any thoughts/suggestions? I'm really angsting over the breast pocket issue. I spend too much time thinking about stuff like this.