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collars from custom shirtmakers

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fopkid, Oct 31, 2004.

  1. fopkid

    fopkid Well-Known Member

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    a number of threads have compared the relative merits of different custom shirt makers (ac, geneva, paris, etc.) will any of these copy precisely the collar of a favorite shirt, while otherwise crafting a custom garment? doubtless alex can/will do it, but he's above my current price point.
     
  2. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    I remember reading somewhere that Ascot Chang will copy your favorite collar. Since it's a custom garment, I can't imagine why these custom shirtmakers won't give you exactly what you want.
     
  3. 9_Ball_Slim

    9_Ball_Slim Active Member

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    Shreveport, LA
    Depends on the tailor. I've found that some custom makers seem to have a house style that they are reluctant to stray from.
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Be careful how you ask someone to copy a collar. It is possible to get nearly all of the dimensions right and still not get the "look" you want, or the feel. I gave one of my best shirts to Ascot Chang once to copy, and when they produced their best shot at it, it looked totally different and didn't really fit. Different lining, slightly different placement of collar stays, etc., all adds up to a different experience. Same with Chipp. They will send your shirt to a factory and have your own personal pattern made (they don't really do their own bespoke). But the resulting product will not be the same.

    So do bring in the shirt you like and try it on, have it photographed, or whatever. And then be prepared to have their effort be a little different the first time round.
     
  5. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I've had Harvie & Hudson and Ascot Chang make a Brooks BD collar for me, but they never got it right -- in proportion to rest of the shirt/

    It was silly really, of me to have a Brooks collar copied -- as I'd rather just wear a Brooks collar on a Brooks shirt.
     
  6. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you're worried about fit or selection of cloth, go to Brooks' Digital Tailoring. Same collar available, shirt body that fits a lot better, 100s of fabrics. Also a $50 premium per shirt, but worth it IMO.
     
  7. fopkid

    fopkid Well-Known Member

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    concordia, thanks a lot for the advice. nevertheless, i have to recommend strongly against brooks brothers digital tailoring. the quality of the shirt was so-so, but what really took the cake was the collar -- one of the points was literally three quarters of an inch longer than the other.
     
  8. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for the warning--- not my experience, but you never know.

    Anyway, nobody else I know can do the Brooks collar on a shirt that fits.
     
  9. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    It is possible for a custom shirtmaker to make an exact copy of a collar (if s/he wants to). However, in order to do so it is necessary to destroy the collar being copied. Without complete disassembly, there is no way to know the various curvatures used in the collar band and collar leaf. It is the 'marriage' of these curvatures when assembled which yields the 'look' of the finished collar.
    Additionally, once disassembled, the shirtmaker can discern the weight and type of the interlinings used and duplicate them.

    The converse is also true: Without following the above procedure, having a copy come out looking and bahaving like the original would be pure luck.
     

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