Collar me!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Threadbearer, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I've been told many times by my bromies in WAYWRN that I need to switch over to collars with a wider spread than I've been getting.

    Okay! Done! [​IMG]

    The shirt below has MyTailor.com's Classic Spread collar, which is a little wider than their Traditional Spread collar, the one I used to order. This collar's band is also .25" taller than MyTailor.com's standard height and the collar's points are .25" longer.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here are my questions:

    1. Based on my body type -- especially the length of my neck -- should I switch to their English Spread collar, which is even wider?

    2. Considering that the collar points don't quite make it all the way to my jacket lapels, should I get longer points next time? (I'm not sure if it's the shirt or my jackets that are really to blame for this problem.)

    3. Is there still too much of my neck showing above the collar band -- enough to warrant an even taller collar?
     


  2. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    I've been told many times by my bromies in WAYWRN that I need to switch over to collars with a wider spread than I've been getting.

    Okay! Done! [​IMG]

    The shirt below has MyTailor.com's Classic Spread collar, which is a little wider than their Traditional Spread collar, the one I used to order. This collar's band is also .25" taller than MyTailor.com's standard height and the collar's points are .25" longer.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here are my questions:

    1. Based on my body type -- especially the length of my neck -- should I switch to their English Spread collar, which is even wider?

    2. Considering that the collar points don't quite make it all the way to my jacket lapels, should I get longer points next time? (I'm not sure if it's the shirt or my jackets that are really to blame for this problem.)

    3. Is there still too much of my neck showing above the collar band -- enough to warrant an even taller collar?


    1. No.

    2. Yes.

    3. Yes.

    But, IANAT (I am not a tailor).
     


  3. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    I think a little more spread would be good. I'd also go for a taller, two-button collar. In any case, definitely make the points longer as they should lie comfortably under your lapels.

    As a side point, I think the jacket is too long for you.
     


  4. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    More spread would look good on you. I'm not sure a higher collar is needed. And if there's a bigger spread, it might fix the length issue with the collar of your jacket. +1 for jacket being slightly too long. You seem to be in the same boat as me. In between longs and regulars.

    Good thread. I should do this too...
     


  5. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I'm not sure a higher collar is needed. And if there's a bigger spread, it might fix the length issue with the collar of your jacket.
    Yep, that's exactly the dilemma I'm struggling with.

    +1 for jacket being slightly too long. You seem to be in the same boat as me. In between longs and regulars.
    Amen, brother.
     


  6. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    I think your shirt collar problem is exaggerated based on the fit of your coats. I've noticed on a number of your coats (and it can be seen pretty clearly on the one in this thread) that the collar does not fit snugly on your neck. I think you should consider the fit of everything together before making a change to your shirts. You may wind up overcompensating on your shirt collars when what you really need is a tweak in the shirt and a tweak in the coat. You may find that after getting a better fitting coat that the shirt collar doesn't need as much altering as you assume.
     


  7. deandbn

    deandbn Senior member

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    I also think your jacket has a fairly 'relaxed' fit and is causing the problem rather than the collar which looks a lot better here than in your earlier posts in WAYRN because it 'stands' higher as well as the fit being tighter / better.
    IMHO your jacket could be shorter and a little tighter.
     


  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I also think your jacket has a fairly 'relaxed' fit and is causing the problem rather than the collar which looks a lot better here than in your earlier posts in WAYRN because it 'stands' higher as well as the fit being tighter / better.
    IMHO your jacket could be shorter and a little tighter.


    +1 The "Trad" fit doesn't work on your build, Threadbearer.
     


  9. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    You may find that after getting a better fitting coat that the shirt collar doesn't need as much altering as you assume.
    I certainly can't argue with this, z. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find a jacket that fits properly -- or that can be made to fit properly, for that matter.

    +1 The "Trad" fit doesn't work on your build, Threadbearer.
    I don't understand what you mean, jrd. My BB jackets fit as well as any other brands I've owned. They can't all be trad.

    But we're getting off topic here. Let's stick to my shirt collars in this thread. We can discuss my jacket issues here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...81#post4609781
     


  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I don't understand what you mean, jrd. My BB jackets fit as well as any other brands I've owned. They can't all be trad.
    By Trad, I just mean full in the torso and lower armholes. You seem to be pretty slim. The BB cuts vary widely. Is this a Regent/Madison? Fitzgerald would probably work better. Anyways, sorry for derailing the discussion. I was going off of AceCow's point. You could use a wider spread collar. Especially with a knot that big. (Double FIH?) Mktitsworth had a very good illustration in a thread from a few weeks back. Check it out.
     


  11. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    By Trad, I just mean full in the torso and lower armholes. You seem to be pretty slim.
    Ah. All my BB stuff is Regent and Fitz. The cuts do still vary, that's true, but both still tend to be slimmer and to have higher armholes than most other jackets I've owned or tried on.

    Anyways, sorry for derailing the discussion.
    No worries. Always glad to get advice. [​IMG]
     


  12. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Definitely wider spread with longer points man. If you didnt tell me this was a new collar, I probably would have thought it was the same as the others. How much are you dropping on this modern tailor business? PM if you wish - curious if I can find you a comparable RTW one with a collar that would rock it for you.
     


  13. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    Would help if you didn't blur out your jaw. Check out MrTik's thread on this subject. The same method might work for you.
     


  14. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    How much are you dropping on this modern tailor business? PM if you wish - curious if I can find you a comparable RTW one with a collar that would rock it for you.
    I'm using MyTailor.com and am paying about $100 per shirt, shipping included.

    Good luck trying to find a RTW brand that fits me. I've got a 15" neck and a 36" sleeve. I've also got a 41" chest and a 33" waist.

    Would help if you didn't blur out your jaw.
    What are you trying to say, man? I didn't blur out anything!

    Heartless bastard.
     


  15. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I'm using MyTailor.com and am paying about $100 per shirt, shipping included.

    Good luck trying to find a RTW brand that fits me. I've got a 15" neck and a 36" sleeve. I've also got a 41" chest and a 33" waist.


    Doesnt BB make 15/36? I guess that is not the easiest size. You need a Borrelli collar on a mytailor..com shirt.
     


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