• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Collar me

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
I've been told on more than one occasion that my shirt collars are lacking in one way or another. Usually those comments are directed at my RTW shirts -- of which I still have a few -- but once in a while I get flak about some of my MTMs, too. The most common complaint is that my collar points don't extend below my jacket lapels.

The following examples are both MTM. Both have what MyTailor.com calls the Traditional Spread collar, which I think is well suited to my oval face and long neck. These shirts also have collar bands 1/4" higher than the default size to help camouflage my neck length. (I included long shots to demonstrate why I think I need the extra collar band height.)

What changes should I make on my next MTM shirt order to get a better collar?





 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
35,728
Reaction score
10,644
I personally think the height looks very nice. I would get a wider spread on the collars, however.
 

forex

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
6,639
Reaction score
209
Get a wider spread collars so that the end of the collar doesn't show and maybe get more tie space or knot your tie smaller.
 

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
I personally think the height looks very nice. I would get a wider spread on the collars, however.

Originally Posted by forex
Get a wider spread collars so that the end of the collar doesn't show and maybe get more tie space or knot your tie smaller.
Thanks, gentlemen. Two questions, though:

First, isn't the visibility of one's collar points as dependent upon the jacket's gorge as it is on the shirt's collar spread? In my sample pics, for instance, it looks like my high-gorged 3-button suit closes the gap better than my 2B does. Does a man really need one set of shirts for his high-gorge jackets and another set for his low-gorge jackets?

Second, shouldn't a man choose his collar type based more on what flatters his face shape and neck length than on whether or not his collar points are hidden? After all, don't some men wear very narrow point collar shirts in order to lengthen their faces? The points of those collars couldn't possibly be hidden by one's jacket, could they?
 

forex

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
6,639
Reaction score
209
I think that those are valid points,however, I think that collar points can be hidden no matter what shape they are (spread,point collar,etc.) It might be difficult to achieve this with RTW shirts and suits but if you are getting custom,it will be pretty easy to do that. Since you are getting your shirts custom and are wearing RTW suits, I would get a slightly wider spread collar, it doesn't have to be very wide but in your case, wider spread will definitely help.
And yes, I wouldn't exclude the possibility of having and/or wearing specific collar shirts with specifit suits,that's just how it is when you are wearing RTW. I think that collar points showing looks very sloppy and spoils the whole look.
 

ndw

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
875
Reaction score
57
Originally Posted by forex
Get a wider spread collars so that the end of the collar doesn't show and maybe get more tie space or knot your tie smaller.

^This. I think a slightly wider spread will also suit your face.
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
35,728
Reaction score
10,644
Originally Posted by Threadbearer
Thanks, gentlemen. Two questions, though:

First, isn't the visibility of one's collar points as dependent upon the jacket's gorge as it is on the shirt's collar spread? In my sample pics, for instance, it looks like my high-gorged 3-button suit closes the gap better than my 2B does. Does a man really need one set of shirts for his high-gorge jackets and another set for his low-gorge jackets?

Second, shouldn't a man choose his collar type based more on what flatters his face shape and neck length than on whether or not his collar points are hidden? After all, don't some men wear very narrow point collar shirts in order to lengthen their faces? The points of those collars couldn't possibly be hidden by one's jacket, could they?


I don't think it is the gorge really, more the "straight" or "crookedness" of the jacket, however I don't think it should be enough of a difference to make or break wearing a certain shirt with a certain suit for collar reasons.

I know My Tailor says this is a traditional spread collar, but in my opinion it isn't all that spread. That is boarderline point. Some people argue over the face shape factor and type of collar, but I think the height you have paired with a sliiight more spread could hold the shape very well. If you had a real round meatball head with big ears it might be an argument.

All in all I don't think they look bad at all, but I think you could handle more of a spread and in my opinion they just always look better.
 

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
Originally Posted by ndw
I think a slightly wider spread will also suit your face.
Wouldn't a pixellated spread suit me better?
 

ndw

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
875
Reaction score
57
Originally Posted by Threadbearer
Wouldn't a pixellated spread suit me better?

good one.
 

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Some people argue over the face shape factor and type of collar, but I think the height you have paired with a sliiight more spread could hold the shape very well. If you had a real round meatball head with big ears it might be an argument.
I guess there's no harm in experimenting with it. With a long face and neck, however, I'm afraid that a wider collar will make me look like this from the shoulders up:



Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
All in all I don't think they look bad at all, but I think you could handle more of a spread and in my opinion they just always look better.
Wide spread collars seem more elegant, that's for sure. Are they always appropriate, though? I though most SFers saved their wider spreads for "dandier" occasions.
 

MBreinin

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
4,121
Reaction score
288
I am going to ape everyone else's comments and say get a wider spread for sure.

Mike
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
35,728
Reaction score
10,644
Originally Posted by Threadbearer
I guess there's no harm in experimenting with it. With a long face and neck, however, I'm afraid that a wider collar will make me look like this from the shoulders up:



Wide spread collars seem more elegant, that's for sure. Are they always appropriate, though? I though most SFers saved their wider spreads for "dandier" occasions.


You mean like posting on WAYWRN?
 

Threadbearer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,761
Reaction score
653
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
You mean like posting on WAYWRN?

Zzzzzzactly!
 

NORE

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
5,497
Reaction score
304
Forget the face/neck crap. Get a killer collar. Just make sure the points fall under your lapels. Nothing but win.
 

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite pair of shoes to wear with jeans? (Choose two)

  • Boots (Chelsea, Chukkas, Balmorals, etc.)

  • Loafers

  • Work boots (Red Wing, Wolverine, etc.)

  • Monk strap shoes

  • Oxford / Derby shoes

  • Sneakers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
427,066
Messages
9,191,307
Members
193,044
Latest member
BodyPartsUsa

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top