Collar bars

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by scjayhawk, Feb 21, 2005.

  1. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    I think it looks over the top.

    Just like the tie-clip has been trying forever to come back into fashion. Even Helmut put some in his F/W 05 runway... When it comes to accessories, men don't have much to chose from.

    .luc
     


  2. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Ive been using the safety pin for about 2 months now, and havent really noticed much damage at all to my collars. When I take the pin out at the end of the day there are two holes where the pin went through, but when I get them back from the laundry, they look as good as new.
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I had bad luck, I guess. I had few shirts with long point collars that I liked to wear pinned. After a couple of years, they really started to show the damage -- especially the white broadcloth one.

    I also found it difficult to pin the collar symmetrically with any consistency. If I ever decide to try that style again, I am getting a collar with eyelets.
     


  4. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

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    Personally, I think collar bars look silly on people under 40 (as do wild-colored shirts like purple and green). That's just my personal taste, however. And I don't think they're very appropriate for business wear, just as tie clips are not very appropriate (nor pocketwatches in your vest, excessive jewelry, etc).

    I always use a Prince Albert knot on my ties, and they stand out nice and fat without need for a collar bar. I get moderate spreads on my collars generally, so they don't flap around too much. Of course, I have a thin neck, so that helps.
     


  5. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Manton- Ive only worn them for a few months, so perhaps the wear will show after a few years. I wouldnt mind that, however, just as I love when my shirts start to wear in the collars and the cuffs anyway. It took me about a week to get the hang of getting the bar properly aligned, but now its pretty easy.

    Linux- I disagree about them not being proper for business wear. Why do you feel that way? Is it one of the "rules" that everyone seems so caught up with lately?
     


  6. Murrah

    Murrah Member

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    scjayhawk -

    Ben Silver sold a shirt with eyelets as recently as 2 years ago. Haven't seen it lately though. For collar bars, have you checked Granger Owings in your part of the world?
     


  7. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    I don't wear bars or pins, but it seems to me that if I did I would use a pin that goes through the shirt, not eyelets. It seems more correct, for what ever reason.
     


  8. Murrah

    Murrah Member

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    scjayhawk - I stopped by The Custom Shop at lunch. You can order collar pins or bars off their website www.customshop.com. Look under "accessories" on the left-hand side of the website. Hope that helps.
     


  9. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

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    I have no idea if there is a fashion rule about it. My opinion was just a personal opinion. I think there is a kind of unwritten "rule" in the business environments I have worked in that it is unprofessional to wear too much jewelry, and I've always felt collar bars fell into this category. Maybe not jewelry, but "eye candy." Not sure how to explain it. I prefer french cuffs, and have a ring and watch, so I've always felt that a collar bar (even though I did want one for a while) would kind of be going "over the top."

    Of course, I also will not wear loafers or chelsea boots in a professional environment (lace-ups or monkstraps only), so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I am quite conservative with my business attire. I'm even worried that my new DB suit might not be appropriate, and I had the hardest time getting myself to wear ties other than the standard repp ties into the office a few years back.
     


  10. scjayhawk

    scjayhawk Member

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    Murrah-

    Thanks for the tip.
     


  11. Murrah

    Murrah Member

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  12. contactme_11

    contactme_11 Senior member

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    I'm new to collar bars. Can someone explain to me how you use one and what the differant styles of them are for?
     


  13. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    With collar bars or pins: Most people do not realize how short the bars need to be. The shortest commercial bar Ive seen is 1-7/8ths inches long from ball end to end. It is too long for my neck. I have a 1-5/8ths inch bar that just works for my neck which is about 17.5 inches. The arrangement is supposed to be closely clenched to hold the tie in place but I often see it done loosely which is wrong.

    Never put the safety pin throught the eyelet holes it makes you look like you just got off a...well it looks bad. Additionally, collars made for the eyelet bar are not designed to take the encompassing tension of the safety pin, which will tend to curl or crumple the collar front improperly.


    The saftey pin leaves a little mark which I hadnt noticed until reading these forums increased my over attention to controling my every part of my environment. If it really bothers you, then set aside a couple shirts for this duty. But worrying about the small remainder marks on the shirt collars falls under the category of "poverty of the mind" which will keep a person from ever looking comfortable or at home in their tailored clothes.

    The preoccupation with thrift or rather preserving things in their newest state creates the stiffest form of dresser ala President Truman. Relaxed and well worn (though clean and in good repair to be sure) is the mark of sophistication. Again 1-3/4" is about the longest outside measurement one will need on the safety pin style unless dealing with an exceptionally thick tie or collar material.

    One ties their tie as they would normally, then pinches the collar gently with two fingers of one hand right under the tie knot, using the other hand's fingers to pin the collar in place relatively evenly. The absence of perfection is part of the art.

    The collars should either be a straight point (or rounded point) in at least a medium length or a club (rounded) collar. The collar blades must be angled closely enough together to make their gathering with the pin seem logical. Although there are many elements at work here, as a starting guideline, if you need to place the pin into the collar more than a quarter inch behind the collars stitching it is far too spread a collar to pin. If after being pinned the collar fights against or unhinges the pin then either the pin is too short or the collar is, again, too spread. Likewise, if you need to pin the collar in front of the stitching, rather than behind it, the collar may be way too close together or too big for your neck.

    The best safety pins Ive seen that are generally available are at paul stuart which carries mostly costume or base metal versions. highlandpark.com also carries base metal versions but has a selection of 14k pins and eyelet bars. Bear in mind, i believe their eyelet bars to be too long but their 1-7/8ths" bar is the shortest Ive ever seen. I might get my own 1-5/8ths pin copied.
    http://www.highlandpark.com/us/lis-mens-Collar-Pins.htm

    http://www.jewelbasket.com/mens-shirt-collar-pins.html carries some beautiful eyelet bars which are again too long but if youre going to do it anyway, these are quite nice. The heavy slide on pin looks interesting. Im not a proponent of clip on pins but that one is, if nothing else, well cast.
     


  14. topbroker

    topbroker Senior member

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    I bought my safety-pin-style collar pin and other collar bars at Highlandpark.com (aka Broderick.com), which Film_Noir_Buff mentions above.

    I used to wear the safety pin a lot back in the Eighties and have enjoyed getting back to it. I'll use the safety pin on any pointed collar, and have found damage issues to the collars to be quite minimal.

    I'm also having some eyeleted shirts made when I have replacement collars and cuffs put on my shirts by MaldonadoCustomShirts.com.

    It's not a style that I indulge every day, but as an added detail I really like it. As with tab collars, which I also like very much, the effect is to push the tie knot out slightly, which looks confident and powerful to my eyes.

    I also like the historical revival aspect. That's my particular sartorial temperament.

    I'm not much of one for "rules" in these situations, except for the rules we make for ourselves. Naturally, the fellows who are attracted to this sort of detail are going to show up with some frequency in this forum and at AAAC. If you can pull it off, I say go for it.
     


  15. Always Suited

    Always Suited Well-Known Member

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    Ebay is a good place to buy collar bars. I wear the eyelet shirts/knob end bars all the time as well as the regular collar bars. They were all gifts as until recently I always wore spread collars and full windsor knots. My partner bought the collar bars/shirts and says they are much sexier. The way the tie knot juts out and the tie arches makes me a little self concious. I admit they do look classy.
     


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