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Cole Haan hand lasted / made in England – Identification + Restoration


Senior Member
Oct 28, 2008
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I got a pair of vintage Cole Haan wingtips off eBay awhile ago. I'd appreciate the help of the SF community in (1) identifying and (2) restoring them (for clarification, I would be outsourcing the work).

Identification: The insoles indicate that they were made in England, the outsoles indicate that they are hand lasted and there is the number 807 inside the shoe next to the size (possibly a last #?). I've checked the nail pattern against the database here but could not match it. The only other time I've seen this nail pattern was in another eBay listing in which the seller claimed they were C&Js. Maybe the seller was a BSer maybe these shoes are older and the C&J nail pattern shown in the database is for newer shoes (though there are some similarities). Pics of the shoes, soles and insoles are linked below.

Front View: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p.../FrontView.jpg
Side View: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...f/SideView.jpg
Made in England Logo: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...einEngland.jpg
Hand Lasted Sole Marking + Nail Pattern: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...LastedSole.jpg

Restoration: The major problem with these shoes is that they squeak. This is very noticeable/loud when weight is applied to the heel (link to video with sound below). However there is also a slight squeak when the forefoot is flexed. The shoes also have a little thread (is thread the right term?) showing between the outsole and the upper on the right forefoot. Also, there is a small tear in the leather at the very top of the right heel (pics linked below). I'm thinking that new heels might be all that is needed. The budget is a consideration right now and I would be disappointed if I got new heels and the shoes continued to squeak. Anyone have experience with this problem? I think I can live with the other issues unless they are more serious than I am aware.

Squeaky Heel Video: http://s425.photobucket.com/albums/p...queakyHeel.flv
Thread Showing: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...eadshowing.jpg
Heel Damage: http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...HeelDamage.jpg

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!


Senior Member
Sep 18, 2008
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Try this site www.bnelsonshoes.com they seem like they do a comprehensive job.

Came across this article while trying to learn more about shoes.


From the article: If the shoe squeaks, repair it. A squeaky shoe isn't terminal. It's usually two pieces of leather rubbing together. "We can take it apart and reglue it," says Ron Goldberg, of Cobbler Corner West Shoe Service in Elm Grove.

Seems like a simple repair. "Seems", I really have no idea.

Being a new member you might enjoy this post.




Senior Member
Oct 31, 2007
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This Cole Haan model is about 25 years old..CJ could have made it but another company
called Tricker's might be the one.Cole Haan during it's pre-NIKE owned days sourced from
a few English makers.The squeaking is most likely the leather stacked heel bases rubbing
against your soling under your heel.Most reputable repair shops could fix or replace the heels with no problem.
Good luck


Distinguished Member
Feb 23, 2004
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I've had shoes that squeak. I take them to Sky Valet shoes in DC -- they tweak the squeak; no more squeak when they're done with them. I'd assume all they need is diagnosis and repair from a good cobbler.

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