Cobbler Union - Bespoke-Inspired, Small-Batch, Luxury Men's Shoes - Official Affiliate Thread

[Betelgeuse]

Second outing for the Alex uR.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Second outing for the Alex uR.

Sorry for the distraction but what kind of window blinds are those? I'm looking for new ones haha

 

[El Argentino]

Presenting....

The Daniel on the new 357 last - Limited Edition!

The 357 offers a sophisticated, chisel-toe silhouette, presented here in French Black Utah calfskin with Vibram sole.

What do you think?

View attachment 1748510 ​

Purchased this today, my first purchase with your brand. I look forward to receiving it. Makeup looks fantastic

 

[dukenukem4ever]

The boots keep coming!

Take a look at the new, Limited Edition Manuel.

Blue French calfskin and lightweight Commando Vibram soles take you to where the action is.... in style.

View attachment 1751083 ​

booo none in my size

 

[rosomax]

Second outing for the Alex uR.

They pair beautifully with those flannel trousers! Btw, are the trousers from Spier & Mackay?

 

[Tomc]

The boots keep coming!

Take a look at the new, Limited Edition Manuel.

Blue French calfskin and lightweight Commando Vibram soles take you to where the action is.... in style.

View attachment 1751083 ​

Any versions without the lug sole in the pipeline?

 

[Tomc]

To put a final point on this - I tracked down this conversation about the differences in the making from someone who had to make a last and figure out how to get it to be a RTW product. Again, names and brands removed to not hijack an affiliates thread and transcribed it here and emphasis added:

"It's a little nerve wrecking committing to a last. We learned a lot along the way. For instance, like, with the first last, [The Maker] was used to working with bespoke lasts but the thing is with bespoke lasts A) they are going to be hand lasted so that means that the leather upper is going to be pulled onto the last a little bit tighter than with machine so you can capture a lot more of the curvature of the last if you're going to hand last it. Secondly, the counters, the structural pieces inside the shoe you know on the heel, in the toe, on the sides, those are thicker in production shoes than they are in bespoke shoes. So by the time you've added these little issues up, a bespoke last will often look very blobby if you try to turn it into a ready to wear shoe using ready to wear techniques so we actually had to remake the entire last with a ready to wear shoe in mind. That was an interesting learning experience, like seeing what could and could not be done. The nice thing about working with bespoke is to a certain extent the sky is the limit but when you need to engineer something for ready to wear a lot of these rules change so it was a great learning experience for me."

I didn't transcribe this part but beyond that dealing with grading for size changes, they needed to look at every size and every pattern because things didn't always scale at a 1:1 when you're dealing with shoemaking. If you go to extremes on small sizes and large sizes, things like a toe puff might need to scale at a different rate or they'd end up too big or too small, patterns would be slightly off if you're looking at say a 6UK compared to a 12UK and used an 8.5UK as your test shoe.

It seems to be saying, there are just limitations to what can be done using ready to wear, factory made technology. Ready to wear, factory made goodyear welted shoes absolutely serve a purpose and it's nice to see there are companies like CU and others popping up at an accessible price point for guys with some more interesting lasts, details and patterns who I can recommend to people where historically, options at their price point were more limited but I think it's just a part of the deal where there are going to be limitations as they try to stay within a certain price point where their customers are at - When there is price resistance (based on your post above) for something like say a 30% px delta in the example you used, CU's hands seem a bit tied if they were to tweak their processes to be able to deliver what you're looking for by adding steps that add hand work, new skills to train workers on and certainly would add to the cost.

I was ready to give up on this until I found out about TLB's Picasso last. I believe they are also machine lasted, so it seems angular chiseled toe lasts are not an impossibility. They do look slightly softer and I now wonder if it's a design choice or an actual manufacturing limitation.

Regardless, I really hope Cobbler Union considers this for future last development. I would literally buy a dozen pairs especially if there are boots. Ok maybe not literally a dozen pairs haha.

 

[Daniel__G]

Purchased this today, my first purchase with your brand. I look forward to receiving it. Makeup looks fantastic

That's great to know! Do share you thoughts once you receive them. We're excited to know what you think.

 

[Daniel__G]

Any versions without the lug sole in the pipeline?

Not for the immediate future but note taken for future developments. Thanks!

 

[Daniel__G]

booo none in my size

It's a Limited edition but we could look into producing a few more if the demand is there.

Due to Privacy settings I'm unable to reach out to you directly through SF, but do write to us at [email protected] and let us know the size you're looking for.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Sorry for the distraction but what kind of window blinds are those? I'm looking for new ones haha

Hehehe. To be honest, I don't know how they are called but they have like two stripes, one is covered and the other is not so that way, you can align the ones that are covered and let the light in or misalign them and don't let the light in.

They pair beautifully with those flannel trousers! Btw, are the trousers from Spier & Mackay?

Thanks! They are.

 

[El Argentino]

Presenting....

The Daniel on the new 357 last - Limited Edition!

The 357 offers a sophisticated, chisel-toe silhouette, presented here in French Black Utah calfskin with Vibram sole.

What do you think?

View attachment 1748510 ​

Purchased this today, my first purchase with your brand. I look forward to receiving it. Makeup looks fantastic

That's great to know! Do share you thoughts once you receive them. We're excited to know what you think.

Boots arrived today. By and large, they are flawless…

Except the back of one of the speed hooks arrived detached on the left boot (pictured). I found it in the sole of the affected shoe as I was taking them out of their shoe bags. I’ve tried to just push the thing back together, but to no avail. What can be done to DIY this on my end (I’d really love to avoid a return/exchange if possible)?

 

[Daniel__G]

Boots arrived today. By and large, they are flawless…

Except the back of one of the speed hooks arrived detached on the left boot (pictured). I found it in the sole of the affected shoe as I was taking them out of their shoe bags. I’ve tried to just push the thing back together, but to no avail. What can be done to DIY this on my end (I’d really love to avoid a return/exchange if possible)?

We are sorry to hear the rear of the speed hook detached. While the hook itself will not loosen, we'd definitely like to solve this issue for you.
Please do reach out to us at [email protected] and let us know your order number. We'll also reach out to you through Style Forum Private Message.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Alex uR longwings and cords. Match made in heaven, IMO.

 

[loduN]

@Cobbler Union

Hello guys,
I really like the Smith loafers but I do not commit to buy because of the sole.
Is there any particular reason for this style to have an open channel and pretty basic sole while your other styles have a beautiful and more refined sole ?