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Coats and pocket squares.

Biscione

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This is a topic that I think is worth discussion, especially in the time of colder weather. What are your thoughts upon wearing pocket squares with an overcoat?

I don't like the look at all. Apart from being dangerous (if it rains, the silk or cotton gets wet) and inconvenient (I tend to put my gloves into my pocket as they're easy to lose otherwise), it strikes me as being very affected. While I have no problems with wearing a pocket square with a suit or sports jacket, I think that I tend to want my coat reflecting its having been thrown on the moment before stepping out of the house. This could be the same reasoning of somebody not liking the look of a ps in a suit, though.

However, I have no issue with wearing a boutonnière with a coat. This is maybe because I think that wearing a boutonnière gives the impression (true or false) of having also been a quick decision without much thought behind it; plucked from a bouquet or even a garden. Or perhaps I'm just a hypocrite.

Anyway, what do you think?

Note: I would have perhaps put this is into poll form had I known how to.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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I don't think I've ever seen anyone wear a pocketsquare in their overcoat, and I don't think I would ever do so...
 

LabelKing

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This seems more useful with very dressy overcoats like a Chesterfield worn with black tie and that sort of thing.

I rarely wear my overcoat if I'm wearing a suit or such; I almost always drape it over my shoulders like a cape so the boutonniere is not an issue either.
 

barims

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I've tried it out recently and posted pics in the relevant thread. I've already been described as being "naturally gifted in studied eccentricity" ((C) voxsartoria), so I'm not concerned about affectation or irritating others. I liked it at the time but won't make it a regular habit - indeed, I left it out last night and thought it looked better. I think it rather depends on the coat as well as the person - I've seen some decent examples on The Sart and from a few archive pics. It takes some serious swagger and sense of style to master the look The boutonnière, otoh, is something I'm interested in doing pretty soon
 

Biscione

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Originally Posted by LabelKing
This seems more useful with very dressy overcoats like a Chesterfield worn with black tie and that sort of thing.

I rarely wear my overcoat if I'm wearing a suit or such; I almost always drape it over my shoulders like a cape so the boutonniere is not an issue either.


I think that it could only work with a navy or charcoal topcoat and a white linen square stuffed in. You should just get a cape, by the way. I have one, and there's nothing quite as enjoyable as wearing it.

Originally Posted by barims
I've tried it out recently and posted pics in the relevant thread. I've already been described as being "naturally gifted in studied eccentricity" ((C) voxsartoria), so I'm not concerned about affectation or irritating others. I liked it at the time but won't make it a regular habit - indeed, I left it out last night and thought it looked better. I think it rather depends on the coat as well as the person - I've seen some decent examples on The Sart and from a few archive pics. It takes some serious swagger and sense of style to master the look

The boutonnière, otoh, is something I'm interested in doing pretty soon


I've also seen some pictures of it being done on the sartorialist; nothing but reminders of the fact that he offers a flashy and misrepresentative side of Italian style.

I'm not sure if you're right about it 'depending upon the person', but as LabelYing also noted, it must have something to do with the coat. Maybe my aversion to it relates to all but one of my coats being patterned.

And the boutonnière is a must. Much like flowers in a home, a flower in an outfit adds life and beauty. I should note that when I am wearing one in a coat it's almost always because I also want to wear it in whatever's on beneath, naturally without it having been crushed.
 

barims

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Originally Posted by Biscione
I think that it could only work with a navy or charcoal topcoat and a white linen square stuffed in. You should just get a cape, by the way. I have one, and there's nothing quite as enjoyable as wearing it.

I've also seen some pictures of it being done on the sartorialist; nothing but reminders of the fact that he offers a flashy and misrepresentative side of Italian style.

I'm not sure if you're right about it 'depending upon the person', but as LabelYing also noted, it must have something to do with the coat. Maybe my aversion to it relates to all but one of my coats being patterned.

And the boutonnière is a must. Much like flowers in a home, a flower in an outfit adds life and beauty. I should note that when I am wearing one in a coat it's almost always because I also want to wear it in whatever's on beneath, naturally without it having been crushed.


I did agree that it depends on the coat. I can see your examples working with a lighter grey herringbone topcoat as well, though I think it could also take a darker but still plain square. As we weren't initially discussing topcoats, I'll now state that I have one in an interesting weave with a cord-like texture in a colour that is difficult to describe (sort of a mix between charcoal and deep woodland brown) and I've permanently installed a light blue pocket square in it, having become real fond of the look. Photo available. In my experience, I much prefer it in a topcoat. It won't stop me experimenting with the overcoat, but I don't think I'll develop a stubborn streak over it

I also don't think I'm wrong in suggesting that this look is highly idiosyncratic or an acquired taste/skill - just as many would either not want to or simply could not dress as the likes of LabelKing or, well, I do, so would some struggle to make this work, not much unlike a cuff knot in a jacket lapel hole

The Sart wasn't the only reference I had in mind - ex-NY Mayor Jimmy Walker was adept at this, I thought:



As a teen, I wore a boutonnière once a year as part of my school uniform. It's not so much something that's left me as something I plan to return to when it's the right time. Good tip on preserving it for your suit or sportscoat
 

Biscione

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In the choice between writing a monstrous response or an insufficient response to your post, I picked the latter.

Just one thing; style isn't a science or even a skill. You either have it or you don't, and if you don't have it you can follow convention and rules and do fine. Also, the silk cufflink in the lapel buttonhole is about as cool as a check-up with a proctologist.

Anyway, we have very different tastes in clothing from what I've seen, so I'll stop now.
 

SkinnyGoomba

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barims has style!

.... you, however we're not so sure about, i'd like to see more pics and less insults.
 

Biscione

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I'll save us both the fuss. Let's just make things easy and say that I have absolutely no sense of style and that if I did I'd put a pocket square into my coat immediately.

(With a silk cufflink in the buttonhole, of course).
 

SkinnyGoomba

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i dont see why you dont just take the oppurtunity to prove me wrong and post some pics. It just ads alot of legitamicy to commentary.

No offense to you, but i've had people who wear walmart clothes, 2 sizes to large think that they can 'improve' my style, unlikely.....and until you prove otherwise your just another e-opinion.

your comment about the silk knot in the lapel are another indication that you dont have it. Our own PG did that, and i'm willing to bet when it comes to style he's somewhat like the sun....and you're more like a candle.
 

barims

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Originally Posted by Biscione
In the choice between writing a monstrous response or an insufficient response to your post, I picked the latter.

Just one thing; style isn't a science or even a skill. You either have it or you don't, and if you don't have it you can follow convention and rules and do fine. Also, the silk cufflink in the lapel buttonhole is about as cool as a check-up with a proctologist.

Anyway, we have very different tastes in clothing from what I've seen, so I'll stop now.


Funny - as the OP, I thought you'd have more to say on your own chosen subject

I didn't say style was a skill, let alone a science - I was talking about a particular look and extrapolated a little to say that certain looks require some ability to be successful, much like a tie knot can make or break an outfit. I didn't endorse (or condemn) the cuffknot look and it's Skinny who makes a case for PG's success with it. Whether I approve of it or not, I nevertheless already credited PG as a more knowledgeable dresser than I - doubt that's changing any time soon

If this discussion is really turning sour because you don't like my personal style, whether I offer my opinions with a grain of salt or not, then I suspect we'll be having more non-arguments in the future, whether I want them or not. Maybe you can request an "ignore" function?
 

SkinnyGoomba

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biscione, i apologize for sounding abrasive, but one of my pet peeves are faceless or prior to posting, pictureless people who are very critical of others.

Very good looks, you certainly know what you're doing. I think you'd be surprised that a good portion of the posters on this board are reasonably young, i'm 24.

My comment mostly reguarded the idea that rather then knocking someone for simple things like a pocket square in the overcoat, or a silk knot in the lapel, admire their work, because overall Barims does very well with a bit more eccentric style then many, and PG....PG is top notch.
 

barims

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I'd like to see the looks too, if that's fine. And Skinny, appreciate the vote of confidence, but the criticism (as long as it's useful) is what I'm here for
 

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