Coat jacket "puffs out". Is this something that can be altered?

[Shiny]

I'm considering a Ralph Lauren suit that I need some advice on esp. the jacket. The jacket fits me fine in terms of sleeve length etc, however, when I button it it sort of puffs out in the upper chest area: both lapels. This is more pronounced when you button it than when it "hangs" unbuttoned. It's a regular suit not an "athletic" fit or anything. I kinda feel that it would work if I had a Arnold Schwarzenneger chest or something.

Is this something that a good tailor can fix? Or, is this too much altering to do to a new coat. BTW, it is a screaming hot deal if I would buy this.

 

[Luddite]

Is it....drape?

More seriously: I'm not sure if this is the same problem, but I've found with a couple of very slim MTM suits that the lapels puff out away from my chest. It's not because the chest is too deep; rather, my chest is too deep for the suits' cuts, and my shoulders normally too far back...if I hunch forward, the chest falls flat.

 

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Luddite

Is it....drape?

More seriously: I'm not sure if this is the same problem, but I've found with a couple of very slim MTM suits that the lapels puff out away from my chest. It's not because the chest is too deep; rather, my chest is too deep for the suits' cuts, and my shoulders normally too far back...if I hunch forward, the chest falls flat.

Yes. the lapels puff away from my chest. If you took a profile/side view, it looks like a thin crescent moon could fit in there. More prounouced when i button it up. Not sure if it matters, but it is a 2 button coat.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

I think this is caused by it being too tight in the waist, but I would wait for one of our more knowledgeable members to confirm that.

 

[lee_44106]

Sounds like either too tight in waist or the button stance is wrong for you.

 

[hooker4186]

i have the same problem trying to find suits that have lapels that lay flat on my chest.

what would you say is the more ideal button stance for thick chested men? higher or lower?

i'm a shorter guy and i'd prefer a lower stance as i think it makes me a look a little taller but i think that might contribute to lapels bunching a bit - is that correct?

 

[Despos]

There is more than one answer to this question and without seeing the jacket on you they are all stabs in the dark. It could be due to fit or construction or a combination of many things.

 

[Shiny]

I'll see if I can go to the store and snap a grainy cell phone pix.

Assuming that it is tight at the waist, is this something that can be rectified by a tailor? Or, would it be too much trouble (and expense) and look for something else?

As for button stance, I think I have similar coats with the buttons on the same general area that fit me fine.

 

[bluemax]

Originally Posted by hooker4186

i have the same problem trying to find suits that have lapels that lay flat on my chest.

Same here. Is there anything a tailor could do to adjust a jacket like this?

 

[Despos]

It all depends on what the cause is and there is not one answer. I would not count on this being fixed easily. 4 out of 5 times it will not be fixed to what it should be, IMO.

 

[theyare]

I have this problem with OTR suits as well. I'm pretty sure it's because of my shoulder / chest ratio is too high for most makers.

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by Despos

It all depends on what the cause is and there is not one answer. I would not count on this being fixed easily. 4 out of 5 times it will not be fixed to what it should be, IMO.
Doesn't it sound like the shoulders on the jacket are too 'square' as the OP has more 'sloped' shoulders? The unsupported shoulders then fall down, causing the front panels of the jacket to bow out.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by apropos

Doesn't it sound like the shoulders on the jacket are too 'square' as the OP has more 'sloped' shoulders? The unsupported shoulders then fall down, causing the front panels of the jacket to bow out.

Opposite of what you are saying. Jacket shoulder has a greater slope the the wearer's shoulder thus making excess length over the chest and making the fronts fall away. When you button the jacket, the chest pops up and out. RTW has very little chest shape to contour to the curve of the chest. If I show you a canvass we make, you will know what I mean.

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by Despos

Opposite of what you are saying. Jacket shoulder has a greater slope the the wearer's shoulder thus making excess length over the chest and making the fronts fall away. When you button the jacket, the chest pops up and out. RTW has very little chest shape to contour to the curve of the chest. If I show you a canvass we make, you will know what I mean.
Thanks for that - I understand perfectly what you mean.

3 cheers for bespoke!

 

[JAlfredPrufrock]

I've had this problem, and my tailor told me it was because the shoulder was too tight. Apparently that's pulling on the front of the jacket making it bow out. When they tried to fix it by letting out the shoulder, they found that there wasn't any fabric to let out (it was an OTR suit that was probably one size too small).

So, they did what they could, but the problem persists. However, it would be great if the cause was something else, particulary something that could be amended.