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CM combinations and silhouettes constructive improvement thread

te0o

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First 100% linen suit and first brown suit. I think learning how to pair it will take some work so I went for what felt like a very safe combination today with a linen shirt, black grenadine tie and black tassel loafers and added some oversized acetate sunglasses for an attempt at a sort of sleazy look.
View attachment 1788558 View attachment 1788559
Edit: I forgot to include why I posted it in this thread. What else goes with brown linen? This one kind of ranges from a mid brown to an almost tobacco in the sun View attachment 1788677
Great combo all around. I think the fuller cut of the trousers, which I think looks very good here, can be complemented better by a slightly longer jacket, maybe with a lower buttoning point. To offset that visual weight at the bottom of your silhouette.

Equally, this could just be due to the angle of the photos.
 

breakaway01

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I noticed the lapel width but I am into it! The other thing I noticed were the pocket flaps which look a little long?
Yes, good eye. The pocket flaps are larger. Clearly a stylistic decision to balance the large lapels (it’s an RTW suit, so I had no say in this). I think I like the larger flaps but they can be easily tucked in as well.
 

breakaway01

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Do you intentionally wear wider ties to match the lapels? I know some people are much more strident about that than others (like me).
I do not -- my ties are 3.25-3.5" so fairly "standard". So far this is my only tailored jacket with such large lapels; most of them are much more conventional (3.5-3.75"). I probably won't get too many items like this but I like the variety.
 

FlyingHorker

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I'll be getting a suit like this, same fabric, but I'm indecisive on the trouser details and rise. Also posted in the bespoke thread.



I did an experiment below and basically never wore it. I found the waistband too stiff, and I prefer more give in the waistband than what side tabs usually allow, especially after a big meal. Tightening the waist band too much added even more pleats and just ended up looking messy.



For the casual suit, I was thinking hollywood waistband, same high rise, but plain front. Thoughts?


I've also thought about going for "normal" trousers. Lower rise, plain front, belt loops.
 

Spaghettimatt

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I'll be getting a suit like this, same fabric, but I'm indecisive on the trouser details and rise. Also posted in the bespoke thread.



I did an experiment below and basically never wore it. I found the waistband too stiff, and I prefer more give in the waistband than what side tabs usually allow, especially after a big meal. Tightening the waist band too much added even more pleats and just ended up looking messy.



For the casual suit, I was thinking hollywood waistband, same high rise, but plain front. Thoughts?


I've also thought about going for "normal" trousers. Lower rise, plain front, belt loops.
I think a drape cut calls for a higher rise, so I'd vote for a high rise.

Two thoughts on the waistband: 1) I generally always think a tall waistband like you got in the picture there looks stupid (especially gurkhas); and 2) I think you could resolve the discomfort of the waistband by asking your tailor to use a softer lining—the lining on my S&M trousers is brutally stiff, while the lining on my Luxire trousers is just dreamy.

Regardless, I think the Hollywood waistband is fine. A little gimmicky but fine.

If you do go high rise you need pleats IMO. No strong feelings about how many or which direction.
 

FlyingHorker

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I think a drape cut calls for a higher rise, so I'd vote for a high rise.

Two thoughts on the waistband: 1) I generally always think a tall waistband like you got in the picture there looks stupid (especially gurkhas); and 2) I think you could resolve the discomfort of the waistband by asking your tailor to use a softer lining—the lining on my S&M trousers is brutally stiff, while the lining on my Luxire trousers is just dreamy.

Regardless, I think the Hollywood waistband is fine. A little gimmicky but fine.

If you do go high rise you need pleats IMO. No strong feelings about how many or which direction.
Yeah I'm cool with dropping the tall waistband. Soft lining is non-negotiable for me, I'm never having a stiff lining again. The pants lining up there is as stiff as the S&M high rise trousers.

I'll see what my tailor says about the pleats, I'll mention that I like a lot of adjustability in the waist and go from there.
 

breakaway01

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Yeah I'm cool with dropping the tall waistband. Soft lining is non-negotiable for me, I'm never having a stiff lining again. The pants lining up there is as stiff as the S&M high rise trousers.

I'll see what my tailor says about the pleats, I'll mention that I like a lot of adjustability in the waist and go from there.
I agree with @Spaghettimatt , definitely high rise and pleats with a normal waistband height. I think the Hollywood waistband is a little quirky; it’s fine but I personally wouldn’t do it. Side adjusters vs belt loops is really your call. For a casual suit I’d lean a little towards belt loops because I think the belt can be an interesting element.
I know people have very different feelings about forward vs reverse pleats. I think forward pleats can ‘grin’ ( ) like those in your photo. I personally like single reverse but entirely personal preference.
I guess another thought is whether you have enough cloth and budget for two pairs of trousers??
 

St1X

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I think when you go with a high rise trousers you need to have suspenders. This solves two problems for me:
1. trousers slip down to hips and create a full break that I don't want
2. you leave a bit of a room for a meal and overall comfort in the belly
 

FlyingHorker

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I agree with @Spaghettimatt , definitely high rise and pleats with a normal waistband height. I think the Hollywood waistband is a little quirky; it’s fine but I personally wouldn’t do it. Side adjusters vs belt loops is really your call. For a casual suit I’d lean a little towards belt loops because I think the belt can be an interesting element.
I know people have very different feelings about forward vs reverse pleats. I think forward pleats can ‘grin’ ( ) like those in your photo. I personally like single reverse but entirely personal preference.
I guess another thought is whether you have enough cloth and budget for two pairs of trousers??
Yeah I figure the hollywood waistband isn't as out there or noticeable as the wide waistband. Though I just realized if the belt loops are dropped, this could flash some potential belt when the coat is buttoned.

Only enough cloth available for one suit, budget is not an issue.

Single reverse seems the easiest to fit from what I've read, double forward the most difficult. That's why most OTR pants are single reverse.
I think when you go with a high rise trousers you need to have suspenders. This solves two problems for me:
1. trousers slip down to hips and create a full break that I don't want
2. you leave a bit of a room for a meal and overall comfort in the belly
I thought about suspenders, they solve all the practical issues.

However, they create a visual problem: they're suspenders. It's definitely a look, and I don't think it's for me. It looks fine when wearing a jacket, but looks goofy to me without one. I inevitably sweat and overheat and take off my jackets.
 

chickene

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Yeah I figure the hollywood waistband isn't as out there or noticeable as the wide waistband. Though I just realized if the belt loops are dropped, this could flash some potential belt when the coat is buttoned.

Only enough cloth available for one suit, budget is not an issue.

Single reverse seems the easiest to fit from what I've read, double forward the most difficult. That's why most OTR pants are single reverse.

I thought about suspenders, they solve all the practical issues.

However, they create a visual problem: they're suspenders. It's definitely a look, and I don't think it's for me. It looks fine when wearing a jacket, but looks goofy to me without one. I inevitably sweat and overheat and take off my jackets.
I'm having a similar suit made so I figure I ought to pitch in. IMO a Hollywood waistband should reach a few cm above the natural waist to keep everything in proportion. The issue with the Edward Sexton picture you posted is that the lowered belt squashes the hips instead of accentuating the waist the way high waisted trousers should.

May I ask where/how you're having this made? MTM? Bespoke?
 

FlyingHorker

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I'm having a similar suit made so I figure I ought to pitch in. IMO a Hollywood waistband should reach a few cm above the natural waist to keep everything in proportion. The issue with the Edward Sexton picture you posted is that the lowered belt squashes the hips instead of accentuating the waist the way high waisted trousers should.

May I ask where/how you're having this made? MTM? Bespoke?
I'm ok if my waist isn't overly accentuated, it's already narrow enough as it is.

I'm having this made by my local tailor, just got measured today. Not sure if MTM/Bespoke, but he's open to my all my fussy styling and measurement details, so I'll call it bespoke for now.
 

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