I'm surprised nobody's mentioned the Thom Browne influence yet. He left CM in 2001 to start his own line, but there's still plenty of influence in their current line, intentionally or not. maybe I've been out of the loop? I've been there about 4 years but the "TB" style influence I thought only really came in a couple of years ago. I like the styling in theory, but TBH a lot of the fits end up being a little unwearable for "normal" people.