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Clothes for the Short Guy - Stores, Brands/Lines, Websites

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Jun 20, 2008.

  1. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Location:
    RWC, CA
    

    Same here. I'm 5'5" 130lbs and XS from Uniqlo has caused me to fling large piles of cash in their direction. This fit is almost all Uniqlo: sweater, jeans, and blazer (I had the sleeves shortened, the sides taken in, and different buttons put on).

    [​IMG]


    AMEN. Socks are the worst. H&M almost always has a smaller size but the colors and options are generally limited. I've bought women's before, will probably need to do that again sometime soon.

    Other stuff that works for me:

    • Jcrew XS slim fit shirts, as many have said - I mostly buy button downs from them but I noticed the last time I was in there that they've started to carry the Ludlow in a 34S. The shoulders are 17" (I made them get a tape measure out which was met with surprise). I'm 16.5" in the shoulders so I don't think I'll sacrifice on that but the rest of the proportions were solid.
    • In San Francisco, I get my dress shirts made at Spoon Tailor for $100 a pop - working on my first pair of flannel pants from them now for $280
    • Ben Sherman shirts, sweaters, and jackets in XS
    • For shorter ties I've been using ebay lately as you can choose to only see "short" ties which they classify as 57" or less, and I also don't like wearing ties that are more than 3.25" wide so I choose that search criteria too

    Glad I found this thread - will start browsing some of the links!
     
  2. DayTripper

    DayTripper Senior member

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    Dec 19, 2012
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    Los Angeles, CA
    Great post! Is that the Uniqlo wool/cashmere blazer? I've been thinking about getting it.
     
  3. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Yes it is! Hard to beat at that price, but like I said I did need to do a bit of work to it before it was good to go.

    If I remember correctly, the length on it is 28" down the back and the shoulders are 16.5" - so those two measurements were all that mattered before bringing it in to the tailor.
     
  4. DayTripper

    DayTripper Senior member

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    Dec 19, 2012
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    I just bought their cordury blazer in XS (for reference, I am 5'4", ~130lbs) and it fit a little more snug than I'm used to, but not too bad at all and I'm pretty sure the corduroy will stretch anyway. I had to take in the sleeves a little bit, but that was it. If this one in wool/cashmere fits similarly, it should work pretty well for me.

    By the way, for socks, I really like Argoz (www.argoz.com) - I'm a size US 7D and their "large" socks fit me perfectly. They're doing 50% off their entire inventory today.

    And for ties, I know they're a little pricey, but I love Sam Hober ties (www.samhober.com).
     
  5. 35Free

    35Free New Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 29, 2014
    This is some incredibly helpful stuff! Thank you!

    Great info on the Hugh and Crye, I've been thinking about their short and skinny.

    I'm a 5'3", 129lbs, fairly slim, not an athletic cut, slight bulge in the belly, LOL. For reference, I generally wear size 29/30 pants - I measure 32" in the waist and a 33" in the bulkiest part in the stomach, just below the nature waist).

    My go-to dress shirts have so far been Banana Republic XS in their tailored slim fit line (I **think** the XS tailored slim fit is not available in-store, even in the US). (There is a tailored slim fit line and a slim fit line, which are NOT the same) Chest and waist are as good as it gets off the rack for me. I still need to have the sleeves shortened though. Collar is slightly higher than I would like, but I don't find it a deal breaker. I've always picked up the non-iron, no-pocket ones, so can't comment on the pocket proportions for BR.

    I've recently ordered a few Ministry of Supply dress shirts as well -

    So far, I've tried the Apollo in Slim-XS and Slim-S, and the Archive in Slim-XS.

    The Apollo in XS is a bit tight in the waist area, but the four way stretch helps and is useable. Sleeves need to get shortened, just a tiny bit. My problem is that the collar seems out of proportion. The Apollo in S is better in the waist area (largely because of the way the material drapes, any other material and I think it would need to be taken in) sleeves are definitely way too long already, and for some reason, the collar on this one is much better than on the XS. (I have the white in S, and the light blue in XS) Be warned though - because of the material, the Apollo does not drape or look anything like most dress shirts. Think basketball jersey made into dress shirt form. Definitely not for everybody.

    The Archive in XS is very tight in the waist area. Definitely for really slim guys only. Any form of beer belly, and it won't work. Unlike the 4-way on the Apollo, the 2-way stretch doesn't really help much here. Ok-ish, with some slight tightness, in the shoulders, definitely won't work for an athletic cut. Collar on the XS slim is definitely tight. If you wear ties, even if the torso fits, you might need to size up. I'll likely order a Slim - S in the future, and see how it works out. So far, material wise, this is actually one of my favorites, and climate-wise, it works well for the hot and humid tropical weather in my place.

    These Ministry shirts are the very first shirts I have EVER purchased where the smallest available men's size were too tight/slim/small for me (save for sleeve length).

    The Banana Republic shirts are also the only dress shirts I have which fit well in the torso off the rack.

    I've been itching to try some of Peter Manning's stuff, but the prices have put me off a bit. For me, his pricing approaches 'tech wear' pricing already - the way I figure it, I'd rather get something with "better" material and get it tailored. But that's mostly because I live in the third world, and I can basically get pants hemmed for less than $3 USD, and 5 dress shirts taken in on the waist and sleeve, to include sleeve shortening for under $25 USD, so I would imagine my tailor tax is pretty low compared to most of you gents.

    BTW, any short gents here wear some Red Wings? I've been eyeing either the Beckman Chukka or the Beckman boot, but am wary of the "infamous" bulbous toe. I have 8D feet.

    Although I hear RW's are pretty popular in Japan, so I guess they work for short gents. I also have a pair of the Golden Fox Enzo chukka's, which have a slightly bulbous toe box, which I wear in 7.5D, and it looks pretty great on me. But I *think* the above Red Wings have more bulbous toes and are chunkier.

    Cheers.
     
  6. devo666

    devo666 Member

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    Apr 19, 2012
    Just a comment re: Silas Jackson. Took a quick look at the size chart on your site and the height and weight measurements look nuts. 5'5"-5'6" and 195+lb?? Any 5'6" dude pushing two bills is either fat or on steroids.

    For the actual garment measurements on the size chart, would be helpful if you listed traditional dress shirt sleeve measurements (i.e., measure from center of back/neck bottom to end of cuff). It's also always really helpful if you show a model wearing the shirt and list the shirt size and model's height and weight.
     
  7. chasro

    chasro Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 19, 2013
    Silas,

    I have to agree with the last poster. The sizing is no good for us who are shorter and skinnier. At 5'5" and 152, your sizing looks like it won't fit me.
     
  8. Roman_empire

    Roman_empire Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 2, 2009
    Hi guys,

    I'm 5,5" and 127 lbs myself. I have a lot of nice stuff of brands like Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Hickey Freeman and the likes in large boys sizes 14/16/18 M/L/XL.
    Suits, blazers, coats, some sweaters and shirts. Timeless quality pieces, which are basically part of every year's collections and are a smaller version of the item's that are sold at the men's dept.
    Many of them are new or hardly worn as they are slightly too big or small for me. I want to sell, as I need to free up some closet space.
    I know how hard it is to find proper clothes in small sizes, maybe I got something for you?

    Feel free to PM me if you are interested or are looking for anything in particular.
    I can of course send pictures and sizes/measurements on request!
     
  9. shortwear

    shortwear Member

    Messages:
    9
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    Mar 29, 2013

    Chasro & Devo - Thanks for the candid feedback, and sorry it took ridiculously long for a reply. First off, a lot of customers happen to have a few extra (like me...) and starting with a more "regular" line helped us stand out from other brands at the very beginning given that we couldn't do everything at once. It actually worked out really well. Still, you both make a very good point (and no, Devo, not going for the 'roid market ;-)) ...I surveyed a lot of shorter guys in the past few months, and all signs point so a slimmer fit. I completely redid the size chart to make it clearer...

    -Ben @ Silas Jackson
     
  10. chasro

    chasro Member

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    Aug 19, 2013
    Ben,

    I appreciate the effort of coming out with slimmer sizing.

    The neck sizes seem very large. I'm 5'5" and 152. Your sizing chart suggests I buy a shirt with a 16.25-17" neck. I buy shirts with a 15" neck. I also noticed that there is no difference in the neck sizing between the classic and the slim fit. Us thinner guys have smaller necks and need the shirts sized appropriately.

    -Charles
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. shortwear

    shortwear Member

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    Mar 29, 2013
    Hi Charles,

    Good to hear back from you. It's a very good question. We didn't slim down the neck size for a couple of reasons. The first is that it's a somewhat casual button-down rather than a dress shirt, and most of our customers keep the top button open. The second is that, often times, men prefer a slimmer torso look but this doesn't necessarily correspond to a smaller neck or the desire for a smaller-necked shirt. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but I'm pretty sure this is the way to go for Silas Jackson, especially as we head into warmer weather and people want a little extra breathing room, literally. But maybe I'm wrong...

    -Ben
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  12. styleforumfan

    styleforumfan Senior member

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    Nov 8, 2013
    Do you agree with these advices from Mr P?

    "At 1.69m, Canadian director Mr Xavier Dolan is not blessed with great height. But you wouldn’t necessarily spot that from afar, because his clothes work perfectly with his proportions. Shorter sleeves and trousers, as seen on his suit, will make you appear taller. Another nifty trick is wearing socks that are the same colour as your trousers – this serves to “lengthen” your legs. In terms of casualwear, Mr Dolan understands that cluttering your look accentuates a shorter frame. You want to draw the eye upwards. Monotone clothing will serve you well, as will a high waistband. Dark trousers worn with a light T-shirt add to the illusion of height."

    https://www.mrporter.com/daily/how-to-dress-for-your-body-shape/1965

    [​IMG]
     
  13. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Mar 15, 2006
    
    That's a problem with much advice on the Internet: it's a mix of sensible and incorrect. The most incorrect part is light above, dark below. Even with an unfastened jacket covering some of the shirt, it still somewhat cuts the wearer in half. A medium color on top would be better. Also, going sockless (as in the picture on the right) violates the article's advice and unfortunately draws the eye downward. Shiny (or otherwise showy) footwear when not necessary also has that effect. The footwear, socks, and pants should blend together for a shorter man with the usual short legs. And the pants should not be as short as in the relatively good outfit on the left. The jacket sleeves on the right look a bit long, which is another issue that can make a man appear small.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2017
  14. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    +1 to that. Generally right ideas, not quite the perfect execution though.
     
    1 person likes this.

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