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Cloth vs the Suit Maker? (RTW suits)

rossyl

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In relation to off the rack/ready to wear suits...how much does the manufacturer come into it, in comparison to the cloth?

I ask this as shops like John bray on Jermyn Street, and other shops, stock own label suits produced using Loro Piana and Zegna cloth. Now I know that from having a search on this forum and AskAndy the opinion of John Bray is very low...but that is not what i'm trying to discuss. Savoy Tailor's Guild do the same, i.e. use expensive cloth, and don't seem to have any reputation.

The suits come in at under £500. Much less than a Brooks Brothers suit using Loro Piana cloth.

Obviously, fit and shape are a given - there is no point buying a suit if you don't like the look/it just doesn't fit you.

However, assuming it does fit, surely these suits are a good buy given their use of quality material at a decent price. I however have no idea about whethere they are fused or not.

Thoughts?
 

mlongano

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Originally Posted by rossyl
However, assuming it does fit, surely these suits are a good buy given their use of quality material at a decent price. I however have no idea about whethere they are fused or not. Thoughts?
While your observations are food for thought, the use of quality fabric in a suit does not provide any guarantees regarding the quality of construction. Ideally we all want high quality fabric combined with high quality construction and a reasonable price. Keep in mind that the labor that goes into a high quality suit represents the lion's share of the cost...the fabric is a relatively inexpensive component of the finished product unless you are purchasing a rare cloth such as vicuna. My point is that a $99.00 suit could be changed by the manufacturer to use a high quality fabric and still provide a reasonable profit when retailing for $199.00 if the quality of construction remains the same.
 

rossyl

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Originally Posted by mlongano
While your observations are food for thought, the use of quality fabric in a suit does not provide any guarantees regarding the quality of construction. Ideally we all want high quality fabric combined with high quality construction and a reasonable price.

Keep in mind that the labor that goes into a high quality suit represents the lion's share of the cost...the fabric is a relatively inexpensive component of the finished product unless you are purchasing a rare cloth such as vicuna. My point is that a $99.00 suit could be changed by the manufacturer to use a high quality fabric and still provide a reasonable profit when retailing for $199.00 if the quality of construction remains the same.


What you mean by "quality of contruction" and "Quality of contruction vs fit" - I suppose are the questions that lead on from that.

Quality of construction, cannot solely mean durability. As many have mentioned, M&S sell perfectly durable "workhorse" suit for a decent price.

By quality of contruction, I therefore presume you mean handwork? Handwork on a RTW suit in my opinion has much less value than on a MTM or bespoke. IMO With a RTW the primary issue is fit, followed by a tailor who is able to make it fit. The fused vs canvas will obviously have effect on price, but less so on fit.

Also, aren't fit and durability as well as the look of the suit are no doubt helped by the cloth?

To pose a different question: Would you rather buy a £500 Aquascutum suit (seen as decent here on SF, but not remarkable) half canvas, working button holes, pick stitching etc - and cloth looks decent. OR a £350 unknown brand - unknown is fused or not, working button holes, pick stitching with loro piana cloth? The fit on both is equally good.
devil.gif
 

Nicola

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Going by the name carries some risk. Name of the suit maker or of the textile mill. It's not unheard of to make different grades.

Second point paying for things like working button holes on a low end suit is similar to the guy who built the Titanic spending extra money on better plates. No matter how much you like working button holes if the suit isn't up to a certain level it's a waste.
 

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