can't wait for the customer to point it out to the glasgows but even more so I can't for their response or should I say lack thereof ?I'm not an expert but I would expect to see a crease where the foot bends and not a wrinkle near the small toe.
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can't wait for the customer to point it out to the glasgows but even more so I can't for their response or should I say lack thereof ?I'm not an expert but I would expect to see a crease where the foot bends and not a wrinkle near the small toe.
Kingsman by GC is AS,Pretty sure GC used CJ/AS (when they were still around)/EG across various line, various distribution channel and varying quality at different price point. So think it’s just very hard to make generic statements
What models from their rtw line are made by EG?Kingsman by GC is AS,
All current lower end RTW is crockett
higher end RTW is EG
bespoke is their own work
All the ones that mr Porter currently have at around the £1000 mark. If it’s £900+ it’s an EGWhat models from their rtw line are made by EG?
So I'm new to the cleverley game, but have been stacking up on quite a few pairs recently. All from the RTW lineup. I find them utterly superb for the money, but a few points below which are confusing, pleasing, interesting:
- Clearly made my Crockett & Jones to something around a handgrade level (possibly slightly beyond)
- They all seem to come up significantky more "snug" than their C&J counterparts. My Adams would appear to be a 337 last, but are slimmer, more snug and a better fit overall than my crockett 337's. Ditto for the Thomas Monks in what appears to be some kind of 348 / 358 last. My 348's always have too much material over the vamp, but these are much closer fitting across the top of the foot and have a slimmer waist than a 348. So unsure if they're standard crockett lasts or are being modified in some way.
-The GC Thomas, clearly uses the same last as my Richard James Hallam, again, probably a modified 358 of some kind.
-Superb leather, not that I've ever had bad leather from even standard crocketts.
But the big thing for me, is that being less well known, you can pick up RTW cleverleys via Mr Porter / The Rake etc for a fraction of their retail cost. Making them not only a better fit for me, but also a significantly cheaper route into Crockett Handgrade quality.
I'll continue to collect as many interesting cleverleys as budget allows.
The C&J Cleverlys are not not handgrade. They're closer to benchgrade +. That is, they have closed-channel soles, but the leather is on par with benchgrade. C&J shoes for Brooks Brothers was similar in that respect (benchgrade, but with closed channel soles).
My experience of owning both handgrade and benchgrade shoes suggests otherwise. The GC have full leather inner socks (instead of half sock on mainline), superbly soft leather thinner and better creasing than bench, closer fitting qualities and much better sole finishing. They're nowhere near bench grade.
I have easilly 15-20 pairs of crockett bench, and another 5-10 handgrade. Theres nothing to seperate the quality of the GC from handgrade. If anything, the GC has better fit.
they're very tight lipped about it all. Neither company seems interested in talking about the relationship. I guess because if either of us is right, someone loses. E.g. are GC charging too much for benchgrade+ or are Crockett charging more than GC for the same level of shoe.Only one way to settle this: ask C&J directly!
they're very tight lipped about it all. Neither company seems interested in talking about the relationship. I guess because if either of us is right, someone loses. E.g. are GC charging too much for benchgrade+ or are Crockett charging more than GC for the same level of shoe.
No one wins, so i'd be surprised if either are willing to talk about it.
The only person ive ever got to be honest about where the shoes are coming from is Sarah at Bodileys. We've had a few discussion about who is making her two main lines of shoes.