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Classic, straight, double pleated trousers which don't look pre-war and don't taper like contemporary cuts.

Lit Up*

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American gigolo inspiration. I love these trousers because they are a timeless fit. I don’t even think they look “retro”. The waist is higher than today's fashion, but not insanely high, like around his nipples. The trousers are wide but they’re not like a dress, or flared. I think the whole point of this movie was to look classic, yet contemporaneous for 1980, rather than nostalgic for the 50s. Any ideas on what/where to buy/look for, new or vintage, would be much appreciated. I guess a lot of you will suggest Scott Fraser, but I think his stuff is wider/more retro than this. UK preferred.











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acconrad

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I would start here: https://www.styleforum.net/forums/menswear-advice.20929/

You want something classic but not pre-war. You want something that doesn't taper... so you want a high-waisted, straight-leg trouser? Lots of companies offer that. Stoffa, Informale, The Anthology, Spier & Mckay all come to mind.
 

comrade

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I wore trousers like that in the 80s, but with a lower rise from Andre Oliver,
Arthur et Fox, and NewMan. The style then was straight, but not too narrow, legs.
 

te0o

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Kit Blake, Aleks style.
 

Lit Up*

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I would start here: https://www.styleforum.net/forums/menswear-advice.20929/

You want something classic but not pre-war. You want something that doesn't taper... so you want a high-waisted, straight-leg trouser? Lots of companies offer that. Stoffa, Informale, The Anthology, Spier & Mckay all come to mind.
Thank you. £500 off the rail at stoffa does not represent good value for me personally. Informale are tapering. The Anthology and Spier are single pleats. But thank you, I do appreciate the heads up and checked them all out :)
I wore trousers like that in the 80s, but with a lower rise from Andre Oliver,
Arthur et Fox, and NewMan. The style then was straight, but not too narrow, legs.
Thanks so much. Always good to hear from people who were there at the time! I'll check those brands.
Kit Blake, Aleks style.
Unfortunately they have a noticeable taper which is very much in trend right now. Classy guys like their high waists and double pleats but they want the trousers tapered because it looks more tailored and fitted, I suppose. I don't want to look like everybody else, for better or worse. I'm an 80s admirer, which leads me down this path. Other forums have pointed me to Luxire...
 

DorianGreen

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I like the model, so much more attractive than what is seen these days. I always plead for wide leg trousers.

You could take a look at Husbands Paris and Saman Amel, they are not cheap, though. Alternatively you could consider using a tailor, which could be finally as expensive, but has the advantage to allow you to choose cut, fabric and all details.
 

te0o

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Unfortunately they have a noticeable taper which is very much in trend right now. Classy guys like their high waists and double pleats but they want the trousers tapered because it looks more tailored and fitted, I suppose. I don't want to look like everybody else, for better or worse. I'm an 80s admirer, which leads me down this path. Other forums have pointed me to Luxire...
Given the price point you’re considering, I doubt you’ll find what you’re looking for off the rack.

The Kit Blake Aleks ticks the double pleat box. You could take in the knee and let it out below the knee to achieve the effect you’re after.

Husbands Paris is an option but not sure if they have any double pleated models, especially not in RTW.
 

Lit Up*

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I use Luxire to make trousers almost exactly like this. However, my specs do taper from 9.25in at the knee to 8.75 at the hem. That’s completely adjustable.

If folks are interested, I’ll post my specs for the trousers.
Sure, got any pics too?
 

ppk

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Sure, got any pics too?
Here is a post with pics of some corduroys that I got from Luxire.

Here are the measurements and configuration for those trousers.
Waist: 15.5
Hips: 21
Front Rise: 13
Back Rise: 17
Inseam: 31.25
Outseam: 44.25
Thigh: 12
Knee: 9.25
Bottom: 8.75
unit: inch
style-component-Front pleats: Double Pleat Reverse
style-component-Front closure: Extra Long Extended closure with 2 button
style-component-Front pockets: On Seam Pocket
style-component-Waistband: Side Metal Adjusters on Waist Band
style-component-Fly style: Zip
style-component-Rear pocket: Two rear pocket with button
style-component-Bottom cuff: Cuff Without Button
style-component-Lining: No Lining
style-component-Button: Burn Orange Horn Button
style-component-Additional Options: Add Suspender Buttons,Watch/Coin Pocketstyle: High Waist Wide Leg Pants - Style Options
First pleat depth near to fly: 1.25
 

comrade

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Thank you. £500 off the rail at stoffa does not represent good value for me personally. Informale are tapering. The Anthology and Spier are single pleats. But thank you, I do appreciate the heads up and checked them all out :)

Thanks so much. Always good to hear from people who were there at the time! I'll check those brands.

Unfortunately they have a noticeable taper which is very much in trend right now. Classy guys like their high waists and double pleats but they want the trousers tapered because it looks more tailored and fitted, I suppose. I don't want to look like everybody else, for better or worse. I'm an 80s admirer, which leads me down this path. Other forums have pointed me to Luxire...
Unfortunately Andre Oliver closed in the 80s. Arthur et Fox is in Paris. And, I am not sure
that NewMan is still available in the US.
 

philosophe

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If you're stateside, you might contact NoManWalksAlone. They do MTM with Sartoria Carrara, and there are a lot of design options. The price will not be cheap, but you might be able to get just what you want.
 

oucheebooboo

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You’ve received some good advice. As others have stated, it’d be tough to achieve all your requirements OTR, but the search for sartorial “needles in haystacks” often inspire me! (Maybe “narrowing” your choices will allow you more “fitting” selections”.) Here’s my go at it.

-OTR
(Not clear if you’re restricting fabric to only gauzy linen. 1st 3 below are khaki specialists)
-MTO
Depending on your time, patience, and budget, Luxire may be the answer.
 

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