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CLASSIC OUTERWEAR! Sizes c. 34 to 44! Topcoat by President Eisenhower's tailor; LL Bean Mackinaw; Br

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May 18, 2009
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I have some more wonderful outerwear to pass on today, including a BEAUTIFUL topcoat by GGG Clothes, tailors to Eisenhower, a wonderful Brooks Brothers tweed topcoat in a rare small size, a 1940 Swedish military overcoat, and more!

As always, I OFFER FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING WITHIN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.


Please PM with interest and offers!

1) BEAUTIFUL Topcoat by GGG Clothes of Brooklyn--tailors to Eisenhower; now operating as Martin Greenfield Clothiers.


This comes complete with its original hanger!

This is absolutely beautiful! In the middle of the C20th GGG Clothes were one of the top tailoring firms in the country. Operating out of Brooklyn, they specialized in exceptionally high quality bespoke suits and coats, and were Eisenhower's tailor of choice when he ran for the Presidency--and then during his time in office. Martin Greenfield worked here, buying the company in 1977 and renaming it Martin Greenfield Clothiers. He continues to this day making clothes "the GGG way", and has outfitted Ford, Clinton, and Obama.

GGG Clothes also has a part in baseball history, for its connection to the Brooklyn Dodgers and the most famous sign in baseball history--see my Facebook page WaterhollowTweed for more information!

This coat demonstrates why GGG Clothes was regarded as one of the top tailors in the country. The fabric is a wonderfully thick, soft, and sturdy wool in a black birdsye pattern that's so subtle that it presents as solid unless inspected very closely. The coat is a standard three button front, with the classic two-button cuffs; all of the buttons are intact and in excellent condition. The coat is fully canvassed and fully lined. The two front pockets are extremely deep, and exhibit no signs of wear; the right-hand external pocket also features an internal ticket pocket. This has a single centre vent. It has peak lapels and very natural shoulders.

It was, of course, made in the USA--indeed, it was Made in Brooklyn!--likely in the mid 1960s. (This is certainly pre 1977, when GGG became Martin Greenfield Clothiers.) It was originally sold by Harveson's of Trenton. Remember, in the 1960s Trenton wasn't the city it is now, but readily outshone its neighbor Princeton in wealth, style, and influence (if you could afford to move to Trenton from Princeton you did!) and Harveson's was one of the main stores catering to the industrial and political elite.

This coat is in absolutely excellent condition. It has one tiny flaw--a tiny moth nibble by the shoulder--which I only found while doing close-up photographing. This has been looked after very carefully--as is evident from the fact that it still comes with its original hanger!--and could easily last you another three decades, or more. As such, this is a steal at

just $69, or offer.


Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length (BOC): 39 1/2

2) Classic Raglan topcoat

This is a lovely, classic topcoat with raglan sleeves. Cut from mid-grey cloth, this has ornamental turn-back cuffs, a four button front closure, and a deep interior security pocket. It has a single centre vent, and is half-lined. It has raglan sleeves. It was made in the USA. It is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and is a bargain at just

$30, or offer.


Chest: 22
Sleeve: c.35 (measured like a shirt)
SHoulder: NA
Length: 40

3) LL Bean Mackinaw coat--with game pocket!


This is wonderful! Cut similarly to a Barbour Border, the front features two deep bellows pockets (for shotgun shells, dog treats, gloves, and so on) as well as two deep slash handwarmer pockets. The collar is oversized, and is designed to stand up to protect your neck from the wind and cold; it also has a fully functional throat latch to ensure that it stays up in wind. It closes with either press studs or a lovely fluid YKK zipper (or both!), and features a front concealed placket, adding both that little extra bit of warmth when worn in cold conditions and providing a more streamlined and finished appearance. This jacket features a zipped interior security pocket, a full lining, and a full-length back game pocket with a zippered closure. It also features LL Bean's signature press studs. The sleeves feature storm cuffs to keep out drafts. This is a seriously warm, heavy jacket!

This was Made in the USA, and is a beautiful classic forest green.

This is in Very Good/Excellent condition. Asking just $45, or lower offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.

Please PM with interest and offers!

Tagged L; this measures:

Chest: 24 3/4
Sleeve: 25
Shoulder: 21
Length (BOC): 31



Issued during the Second World War!

It's 1940. The British Channel Islands are captured by Nazi Germany, the Battle of Britain begins in the skies over the south of England in August, and Germany marches into Scandinavia.... except for neutral Sweden, although its neutrality didn't stop the increased production of war materials, "just in case".... And one of the items produced was this wonderful greatcoat.

(See my Facebook Page WaterhollowTweed for pictures of the Nazi-occupied Channel Islands.... and lots more sartorial goodness!)​

Issued by the Swedish military in 1940 (it carries the military production stamp noting its 1940 origin in the lining) it is unlikely that this coat saw active service; its rear half-belt still appears to carry the original basting for storage in its pocket prior to issue. (Although it might have been issued; it has metal unit insignia attached to the epaulettes.)

But had it seen service, it would have served its intended purpose--keeping a Swedish soldier warm and dry in combat--wonderfully. This is a seriously impressive coat; cut from extremely thick woolen cloth that appears to be a much thicker and warmer version of loden, the tailoring on this is incredibly impressive for what was intended to be an utterly utilitarian garment. (The chaps at the Fedora Lounge claim that the 1940s was a decade so stylish it could make a war look good... and while I disagree strongly with that--NOTHING can ever make a war look good--I agree with the spirit behind the claim: That the clothing style and quality of that era was so high that even the most functional of garments were steeped in panache.)

First, it's a classic military double-breasted greatcoat, with the beautifully stylish oversize collars and flared skirts that typify those garments. And while both features are beautifully stylish, they're both functional; the collar for neck and ear protection against cold while on active service, and the skirts to retain warmth and allow additional layering underneath. It also features a half-belt, designed to nip in the waist--producing a wonderful silhouette, yes, but far more importantly making movement from the waist much easier--such as a quick half-turn to fire at someone flanking you. And, of course, it has a single vent, for ease of movement.... That it features lapped seams throughout and the vent is a hooked vent only adds to its appeal. The vent also features a small interior metal hook closure, for neatness on parade. And, of course, the sleeves are cut for ease of movement and feature military cuffs, and the shoulders feature epaulettes.

The front is secured by Swedish military buttons featuring the three crowns of Sweden; all of these are intact. The rear half-belt is also secured by two crowned buttons at the back. This coat is half-lined.

Given that this was issued in 1940 this is in excellent condition; but I'm always conservative with rating vintage items, and this does have a small flaw; a small surface scuff on the back by the right-hand seam, as shown. It could also use a dry clean and press since it's been stored for decades--this might well remove the surface scuff, too. Although one of the metal insignias is intact it is loosely attached; the other is split in half, and also loosely attached. Given these minor flaws this is in Very Good condition--and given its weight and durability it could easily serve you as a highly unusual and historic coat for decades to come--this is NOT a coat that needs to be babied!

Asking just $60, boxed and shipped in the USA. This is HEAVY!


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 44 1/2 (This is a classic full-length military overcoat!)

5) SMALL AND LOVELY Brooks Brothers Double Breasted Herringbone Topcoat


This is absolutely wonderful! Cut from a beautiful dark grey broad herringbone cloth that's subtly and sparingly flecked throughout with forest green, rich chestnut, and Royal blue, this is cut as a classic topcoat, with peak lapels, two flapped front pockets, a breast pocket, and a fully functional and flapped ticket pocket. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition--the breast pocket is still basted shut! (NB: Careful examination shows that this is NOT missing a button, despite appearances!)

This is also in a rare smaller size, and dates from when Brooks Brothers was very, very good indeed! This lovely, classic topcoat is a steal at just

$69, or offer.


Chest: 20
Sleeve: 23 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 16 3/4
Length: 45

6) Schott Down Vest.

Made in Elizabeth, NJ, alongside the famed Perfecto motorcycle jacket, this is a stylish and utterly functional vest. It features a high collar to protect the neck from wind, two deep slash pockets--with overflaps, so that they retain their shape when not in use, and carry items more securely--and the fact that the back is longer than the front--just as a work vest should be! The vintage label is wonderful! :)

Asking just $22.

Size S; measures:

Chest: 20
Length (back): 29
Length (front): 26

7) Swedish Military Utility Jacket

This is lovely; extremely well-designed, and very well made!

This is Swedish military issue, and retains all of its original Swedish Army buttons, featuring the Triple Crown of Sweden. The front features two flapped hacking pockets that are secured with military buttons; the placket is secured with four buttons at the top (as shown), and then further buttons at the bottom of the placket in the interior, giving this a very elegant silhouette. The interior features a flapped security pocket with button closure, while the back features two further utility pockets, with security hook and button closures. This jacket is unlined, and would be perfect for warmer days.

This jacket is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $26, or offer.

Tagged a 40, this runs smaller; it measures:

Chest: 19 1/2
Sleeve: 21 1/2
Shoulder: 17
Length: 25 1/2

8) MA1-type Blouson Parka

For when you need warmth without weight, this would be perfect! It features two slash handwarmer pockets on the front, a zipped security pocket on the arm, and storm cuffs.

Asking $17, or offer.

Tagged size L. Measurements:

Chest: 27 (large owing to bulk)
Sleeve: c. 36 (measured like a shirt)
Length: 25.5

9) VINTAGE REVERSIBLE MACKINAW FIELD JACKET by the Minnesota Woolen Co., c. 1965.


The Minnesota Woolen Co. operated in Duluth, MN from 1916 to 1977, and specialized in wool blankets similar to Hudson Bay blankets and woolen outerwear for outdoorsman. The best testimony of the quality of their garments lies in the fact that a lot of their hunting jackets and shirt jackets are still going strong, after 40 or 50 years of hard field use; they can be readily found in usable condition through online vintage retailers or eBay.

(A short video put out by the Minnesota Woolen Co. in 1959 can be seen on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed. Please "Like" me for early chances at the goodies I post here, plus information about vintage and classic clothing!)

But while this jacket--which likely dates from the mid 1960s--is of similarly high quality, there's something very special about it: It's reversible. And the Minnesota Woolen Co. didn't make very many reversible jackets, or else they didn't survive, or else they're so beloved that they rarely make it onto the secondary market, as this is the first of its kind that I've seen. (And I've seen a lot of MWC shirt jackets!) My suspicion is that this was a fairly rare item, probably owing to its original cost. Adding the gabardine shell to the heavy wool shell would have made this quite a costly item, and I suspect that the typical customer of the MWC wasn't looking to spend a lot on his or her workwear,

So, the first point to note about this is that it's reversible. One side is the heavy bright scarlet wool that's frequently used in hunting gear from the mid 1930s to early 1970s, when it was superseded by blaze orange. The other side is tan gabardine cloth. Clearly, the idea was that you'd have a jacket that would repel rain--rather than simply soak it up, as wool does--and so enable the heavy wool to keep you warm for much longer in the field.

The scarlet side features two deep front pockets, covered with flaps secured by oversize buttons. It also features two deep slash handwarmer pockets, and a front chest pocket--again, flapped and secured by an oversized button. The gabardine side features two deep handwarmer pockets and a zippered chest security pocket. Since this coat is designed to be fully reversible the sleeve cuffs have no buttons or straps of any kind, so they can be easily turned inside out. The collar is oversized and designed to stand; the coat is closed by a zipper, again, designed to function perfectly no matter which way the coat is turned. Since this is designed for woodland hunting it's cut for ease of movement, and so has venting at the seams on either side.

This also comes complete with its original hood, which, of course, can be reversed like the rest of the coat! It buttons on and it easily removeable.

Unlike most hunting coats of this vintage this has all of its original buttons intact, and the zipper is lovely and fluid. Unfortunately, the wool side has suffered some moth depredations, most noticeably on the collar. This is NO LONGER AN ISSUE, and has resulted in cosmetic damage only, but because of this this lovely jacket is in Good/Very Good condition only, and so is only

$25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements (this is c. a modern 40R):

Chest: 23
Sleeve: 25 1/8
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 31



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