Classic Noob Thread: $1500 for a quality wedding suit, advice on fabrics, etc sought

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Touching Cloth, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    Hey all,

    Being not unfamiliar with being a noob in a well-established forum, I'm aware that the novice-level questions contained herein open me up to some semi-deserved sass (of the "use the search function" variety). Nevertheless, I will open myself up to ridicule…

    I've been reading the forum here for a while, in preparation to committing to a suit for my wedding. And thought I'd reach out for advice/feedback on where I find myself in the process.

    Some history
    I own two suits.
    1. Bought for me by a psychotic former employer who attempted to turn me into a younger version of himself. It's now 13+ years old. Still in beautiful condition, and is a pleasant dark grey Super 100's MTM (possibly? can't recall) from a now non-existent San Francisco boutique. I have two issues with it… both stylistic: The jacket is too long for my tastes and the pants are pleated. I may donate it, or do whatever it is a gentleman does with old suits.

    2. Bought for my first wedding about 10 years ago. Banana Republic. Shoulder pads are too big, dislike the pattern. This is almost certain to be donated asap, for obvious reasons.

    I started out this search saying to myself, "I'll spend $500 at most and get whatever looks good." That idea has quickly fallen away. And I'm now wanting to commit to something truly excellent. Both because I want to look good for the occasion and want a suit I truly love for the foreseeable future.

    Personal facts
    In my late 30's, around 5'11", 165 pounds. Average all around. Appear slim, but carefully hiding an expanding gut (or maybe body dysmorphia).
    Have a background/education in the arts and like to think I have better than average taste.
    I can pull off most colors with the exception of tan and khaki; both of which look ridiculous on me. (As do lighter-colored shoes).

    Nowadays I work in Silicon Valley and never need suits for professional purposes. Although my explorations into this world of fancy-man dress have re-invigorated an interest in dressing a bit better in spite of my casual environs. This may well lead to a sport coat or three.

    Goals
    A well-made, dependable, flattering, all-purpose suit that will last for many years (though will be likely infrequently worn).
    Something that could be all season for San Francisco (not hard since we don't have any extremes).
    Under $1500 (ideally around $1300, but, whatever).

    Stylistic and color preferences
    Being a somewhat hip San Francisco resident I like things fitted and short. But I also want it as future-proofed, non-faddish as possible. So I won't be going to extremes.

    Haven't a real clue about most tailoring features: gorge, fall, drop, drape, weft, or other terms I've seen bandied about. (I can, of course, understand each individually when doing research, but forget meanings and overall implications the moment I move on to the next). But I do like what I see with regards to the trend in more lightly padded shoulders.

    Leaning towards something medium grey or grey with some brown. I quite like flannel, tweed, more lightly textured, less shiny stuff.

    2-button, dual vent, narrowish to mid lapels, cuffed trousers.

    Pictures of suit cuts I like
    http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/550x/2a/94/12/2a94120504be05c3513a5f1f78d3c0a2.jpg
    http://www.hackett.com/hackett-mayfair-flannel-suit
    http://parisiangentleman.fr/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/ZEGNA-1.jpg

    Fabrics I've liked
    http://menstyle1.com/post/42139349590
    http://suitology.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/102.jpg?w=830

    VERY MUCH: http://suitology.wordpress.com/2013/02/07/thinking-about-summer/

    Advice sought
    I'm unsure what sorts of fabric options exist at this price point. Would love some guidance. I would guess the fabrics seen in the fabric thread tends toward the pricier end of the spectrum (?). If there are recommendations of the lines/mills to check out, this would be strongly appreciated.

    Production: I've been strongly considering booking a WW Chan session when they come through SF next. Does this route make sense in my situation?

    In SF there's also a well-reviewed (on yelp) tailor named Seymour's. This is also in the mix. Found a few posts around here about them, but not a whole lot. Maybe it's better, since there appears to be a reliable in-town option? (Since that way I can easily go back for any fixes that may need occur).

    If there was a SuitSupply in SF, I may consider that, but I don't think it's the best option.

    TLDR: Need good fabric options for greyish suit with $1500 budget. Is bespoke a good option at this price point? Does WW Chan or another option make sense? Given my tastes (indicated above) what I should I be asking for?

    Thanks in advance,

    (Not Yet) Touching Cloth
     


  2. suited

    suited Senior member

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    Bespoke would be beyond that price range. I would think San Fran would be lined with shops, both big and small, offering $1500 MTM options. I would pick some shops and browse their fabric selections. I'm going to be commissioning a birdseye suit to be worn at my reception (not during the ceremony), perhaps you would enjoy that fabric as well?

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    tl;dr

    go to high end mens store and try on suits from several otr brands to see what fits you best in the shoulder. Spend the rest of the money tailoring.
     


  4. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    Thanks. That sounds a bit less fun that the Chan route, but I'll think about it.
     


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