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Classic Menswear as muscular guy

refinery

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I can share that same sentiment. Not too much trouble with trousers for me (never slim fit, just doesn't work especially when sitting), but shirts (17.5/44, typically baggy waist) and most especially sport coats are near impossible RTW at 44S (tight upper arms, narrow back, oversized waist).

Only items that genuinely give me no issues are shoes and ties. Lifting has even sadly required me to only use knee high socks due to bulbous calves.

Personally, I put a hold on buying classic menswear recently as maybe I will go on a cut soon and see if I do want to try for an MTM SC.

Looking forward to updated pics with your SC from LA.
 

BB_Adept

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I myself would not buy items made during a or specifically made for a cut. Over the last couple of years i rarely went below 90kg. The way i am built right now is my everyday physique. This is what i usually look like. But my physique does change, which makes going bespoke financial nonsense. If i could buy bespoke items knowing they would last me for years to come, i would consider doing that. Chances are however, that those will not fit in 2 years anymore as well.

My calves are not nearly as big as i want them to be (like 41.5cm) but i share the same issue. I cannot wear socks that are not knee high.

You are correct sir, buying shoes is not as difficult. In my opinion, shoes only complement outfits though. Outfits are not built around the shoe. I own a staple of three shell cordovan pairs that i rotate regularly and i am happy enough with that right now.
 

BB_Adept

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@Camerashy you also asked about my experience.

Sadly, the Natalino linen sport coat did not fit. Whilst the body and shoulder fit was pretty good, there is just too much collar gap. Apparently I get this on a lot of sport coats. I do not really know why this is, my neck is a size 43.5. I doubt that too many men have a much bigger neck than I do.
Additionally, the armhole was too high, making it uncomfortable to lift my arm. It was fine as long as I just had my arms at the sides, but even driving a car might have been a pain (only tried it on for about 2 minutes).
Therefore the sc has to go back, even though i liked the fabric and craftsmanship (considering it was a 300 Euro sc it seemed well done).


The shirt I ordered was very nice and I'll be keeping it. It's a size 17.
 

BB_Adept

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So I just received some new shirts from S&M and I am very happy with those. I ordered three polo shirts in XL and they fit almost perfectly fine. On top, I figured out that I can wear size 17 dress shirts, but size 16.5 also works and does not need alterations. Size 17 offers more room, but too much of it around the waist. 16.5 is close to being too slim in the chest area for my taste but slimmer around the waist.

Altogether I am very satisfied with my order. I ended up paying 215 Euros for one dress shirt, one popover shirt and 3 polo shirts and this already includes taxes and shipping. I did use an additional 90 or 100 USD store credit though but this came from former import duties and Spier's service of giving me half of that as store credit.

As a reminder: I am around 93 kg, 181cm, 112cm chest relaxed, 93-94cm waist but with a big seat of 110cm.

I am updating this thread every now and then in case there are other lifters out there :) .
 

BB_Adept

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It's been a while since I last posted on this forum. Several months actually. During the last couple of days I found less clothing in my wardrobe than ever and I plan on buying a couple of things. As usual, I just cannot figure out what to buy and where to buy it. Naturally I ended up on Spier and Mackay's website again, not knowing if I want to give them another try. I like their stuff, but I live in Europe and returning items is both expensive and a lot of work.

I plan on buying a new sports coat, one or two trousers and some shirts (long sleeve polo and maybe ocbd shirts).

Buying clothes is still as difficult for me as it was two years ago when I found this forum and decided I wanted to switch my "style" to classic menswear.
 

BB_Adept

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Just wanted to update this little thread, after many thoughts I just ordered a sports coat in size 56 and a pair of mod 3 wool trousers size 54 from Cavour. As I mentioned before, I cannot spend thousands of Euros on bespoke clothing, but even these Cavour items are not cheap. I would still love to find one retailer for both items where I can order again and again, simply because researching sizing and ordering/returning is a pain in the a**. This is basically why I rarely purchase clothing, the process is just too frustrating.
 

BB_Adept

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Update: I received my order from Cavour and I am very pleased, even though I cannot wear either of the items I purchased. The trousers will go back and I'll size up next time, the jacket needs alterations but my usual alterations tailor is on vacation for another month. I will probably try a different one. Jacket feels comfortable, plenty of room around the arms and lats.


I also posted these pictures in another thread, but in case I have fellow readers I want to keep you updated too.
 

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sussi

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Just wanted to update this little thread, after many thoughts I just ordered a sports coat in size 56 and a pair of mod 3 wool trousers size 54 from Cavour. As I mentioned before, I cannot spend thousands of Euros on bespoke clothing, but even these Cavour items are not cheap. I would still love to find one retailer for both items where I can order again and again, simply because researching sizing and ordering/returning is a pain in the a**. This is basically why I rarely purchase clothing, the process is just too frustrating.
Maybe it would be worth checking out Berg and Berg. They have a few trousers models that are a bit wider, so they have enough room if you have stronger legs and they drape nicely. Check out the measurements and you should be able to figure out what will work for you. But I am not sure if their jackets are suitable if you have some chest and shoulders. From what I was trying to figure out for myself if would be too long in the right width but I might try them in the future. From measurements current Natalino jackets seem more fitting but I haven' tried those either.
 

BB_Adept

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Thanks for the input. I ordered a B&B Overcoat once, but the shoulder was too tight, so I ended up returning it.
I'll wait for my Cavour sport coat to come back from the tailor. If I'm satisfied, I'll probably order the Cavour double breasted navy hopsack jacket in 56. I also received a fair amount of shirts in size 16.5 from s&m and those fit fairly well (the waist needs to be taken in).
 

Matty2Ts

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My build leans more Brian Shaw than Ronnie Coleman, but I still have similar issues with RTW sports coats. Even when a 44L fits in the chest/shoulders, it's invariably too short for my 190cm height.

I'm also in the EU, so it's good to follow along and see what you've been able to order. I am getting a M2M navy blazer and some grey trousers in the next month or so - hoping that this will be a good investment!
 

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