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Classic custom tuxedo specification advice

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by Chrisevans19, Dec 28, 2018.

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  1. Chrisevans19

    Chrisevans19 New Member

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    Dec 28, 2018
    Hello,

    I am deciding on the precise specification for my first bespoke tuxedo. I have put a lot of research in and am keen to get it right- formal, attention to detail and in keeping with the ‘correct’ etiquette rules for black tie. To set the scene- I am 26 years old, 6’2’’ and 90kg and I am reasonably trim.

    My thoughts are as follows-

    Jacket-

    Midnight blue/black fine barathea wool

    9-10 ounce/ 300/340gsm fabric

    Ventless/double vented

    Shawl lapel- high cut or wide peak lapels

    Grosgrain black silk to peak lapel or black satin if shawl lapel

    Single button closure in grosgrain/satin

    Jetted pockets- self fabric

    Four cuff buttons in grosgrain/satin, touching

    Buttonhole left lapel with stem holder on reverse

    Inside jacket pocket

    Silk lining


    Waistcoat-

    Same material to front. Single breasted.

    Deep U cut to hide underneath jacket- hide waistband and shirt

    Shawl lapels in grosgrain/satin

    Curved tips/pointed if peak lapel

    Three stud closure to match shirt studs

    Two self faces jetted pockets

    Tab to link with button inside of waistband


    Cummerbund-

    Matching jacket/wool colour with jacket Faille silk/satin

    Four pleats

    Slight dip in centre

    Concealed pocket on reverse

    ‘Belt’ clasp closure on back

    Tab to connect with button on trouser waistband


    Trousers-

    Midnight blue barathea wool to match

    Grosgrain silk stripe to outside seam

    No pleats

    Catch closure with zip

    Side adjusters

    Diagonal cut pockets

    Button fasteners for braces

    Silk lining

    Hemmed for slight break

    Buttons on waistband to attach shirt and cummerbund/waistcoat


    Shirt-

    Sheer white cotton

    Marcella bib down to 3rd/4th stud, buttons below

    Marcella cuffs and collar

    Turndown collar- slightly spread

    Mother of pearl studs

    Tab to attach to trouser band


    Bow tie-

    Back grosgrain to match lapels

    Classic ‘fish’ shape


    I am of course aware that a waistcoat and cummerbund are not worn together, I just want to get both made for flexibility.

    Should the bow tie colour always be black? Are midnight blue lapels to match a midnight blue wool incorrect? If not, should the bow tie then also be blue? Do the grosgrains/Faille of both the lapels and cummerbund tend to clash?

    Am I missing any other important details? Should I be going along different lines for any elements?

    Many thanks for your thoughts/criticisms.
     

  2. johng70

    johng70 Senior Member

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    I have to ask - at 26, where do you go that you will get the use out of a bespoke tuxedo? What tuxedo do you currently wear to all these functions? Have you been 90kg since you were 18? If you're going to monthly functions, it could be a good investment. But, if you're going to 1 function a year, spending $3000 (or whatever you plan on spending) I only ask because, if you're going to start investing in bespoke suits and tuxedos you should really have a VERY stable body size.
     

  3. Chrisevans19

    Chrisevans19 New Member

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    My fiancée and I have maybe 4 black tie work events a year that we go to. Which I know isn’t a huge amount.

    I currently wear a cheap tuxedo from next- it was about £80. It works but doesn’t fit well and just looks a bit cheap.

    Fair point re body size- my weight has been stable for the past 3 years or so. Hopefully it won’t increase further.

    I plan on getting it made in Vietnam when I am holiday there- I have had things made there before and the tailors are extremely good- they will put you together a handmade bespoke two piece suite in 100% wool or a cashmere blend with silk lining for around £300-350. You can go down to £150 if you choose cheaper wool blends. As many fittings as you need until it’s perfect. At that sort of money it changes the equation for me somewhat.
     

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