City bankers

[Boertjje]

Good afternoon everyone,
I just registered here. And I have kinda of problem that is bothering me for a while seems I can't find solution. So I decided to ask here, although followed forum for a couple of months just now decided to join.

Anyways, I am graduating soon, in this May. And already got couple of offers from few banks in London. Now, I want to accept it and I am pretty fine with all the things except one, since I am not from there and don't follow regional trends so carefully, I don't want to stand out.
I want to buy suits, shoes and everything that goes with it according to the other investment bankers and brokers, so that I fit in as soon as I arrive.
So what I am curious about is what color/brands/style of suits, shirts, ties (tie knot as well), shoes are mostly appropriate for a future banker/broker in London?
And what are some of the brands that are consider as only for them?

I've heard some things etc that I have to follow the rules that they are strict etc but so far no one around me knows anything about such things neither do I.

I really don't want to stand out specially in the beginning. And at the moment I don't have some huge money but I think I can afford proper brands. The thing is I have no idea which are consider proper etc for bankers. And specially colors.

If anyone knows and care to share that, or if there are some articles on net or anything please share.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mack11211]

Check this thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=28656

 

[Concordia]

And then hang about your prospective firm for a day to absorb the scene.

 

[SimonC]

It depends on exactly where you work and what you do - the Reuters article may have been slightly precocious, but the Eurobonds quote in it says a lot - there are lines in the sand that are drawn dependent on exactly what you do for a living.

As a starting business wardrobe, I'd go for shirts by T M Lewin (£25 each in the sale right now), perhaps starting out with a couple of plain white, a couple of plain blue (although with some variation in the weave to add interest) and one or two striped or checked shirts - 'Friday wear'. They're also doing ties for £10 each - I'd grab a selection of these in colours that complement your shirts, as you're unlikely to beat that in the value for money stakes. I'd suggest shirts with cufflink cuffs because they look smarter.

Suits are a mixed bag. Browse on here and on the websites of a few tailors until you've got an idea of whether you like the 2 or 3 button look, single or double breasted etc. Then hit a couple of retailers until you find something in the style you like that suits your body. You can always get minor alterations if it's a little too long in the sleeve / body etc, but you want to avoid having to re-cut the shape entirely as this is an expensive and time-consuming process.

Retailers to look at are M&S (aim for the higher-priced stuff - it can be quite good but doesn't suit my body shape), T M Lewin or Charles Tyrwhitt, perhaps Zara or H&M for something lower-budget. If you've got a little more time, there are a number of stores on Jermyn Street (such as Harvie & Hudson and Herbie Frogg) that are currently doing some very good deals.

Be careful to choose muted colours - dark greys and dark blues, perhaps with a faint pinstripe. Anything too wacky will date rapidly, as will anything with too many concessions to fashionableness (look up Ozwalk Boteang for examples of this).

Shoes - really honestly only black will do. Jones the Bootmaker are selling the Crockett & Jones Connaught in black calfskin for £95 - a fantastic deal for a pair of shoes that'll last a decade or more treated well. Good shoes will also make you stand out to those that know quality, usually those above you in the management hierarchy. Two pairs of good black shoes should be a miniumum, and where possible calfskin should be purchased as opposed to the cheaper-looking 'corrected grain' finish - search on the forum for more on this. If buying from a high-street store like Jones the Bootmaker you can probably negotiate a small discount on a pair of shoe-trees to go with them, which will help them last longer. Loake shoes can be good for less money, but again be careful to choose calfskin.

Other than that, I'd go with plain black socks (6 for £2 from Primark!) as anything else can be misconstrued as eccentricity.

Total spend should be something like £150 on 6 shirts, £60 on 6 ties, £200 on 2 pairs of shoes, £4-500 for two suits (possibly less in the sale), and a little extra money for cufflinks, socks etc - so probably £1000 all in, but you're setting the foundations of a wardrobe that will last a long time and project a favourable impression. And it's moderately likely that your employer will pay you a golden handshake of a couple of £k. You'll also want an overcoat, but that's a matter for someone else to assist with.

Good luck!

 

[passingtime]

I would echo SimonC's advice. The only other thing would be on ties; avoid anything garish or striped at this point in your career. A nice dark blue or mid to dark red ground with dots, checks, or woven solid is good. Use a four in hand knot, avoid a windsor knot. For now you need to blend in and not be a target, well dressed but not overly so.

 

[Will]

SimonC has pretty much nailed it. I'd tweak his recommendations to remove the white shirts (one for funerals is all you need) as plain white is a bit naff. Stick with blue.

 

[maverick]

Those shoes sound like a great deal--do they ship or is there a place that will match?

 

[SimonC]

I'm afraid I don't know. I suspect their sale ended yesterday (Sunday), though I'll update later as I pass one on my way to work. They may be willing to ship, but they're a large chain and hence might not want the hassle. I'd do it myself, but it's difficult tracking down the right size.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

What kind of position have you been offered? Is it investment banking or retail banking?
Honestly, if you don't know how to dress for the job, you will stand out in many other ways than your wardrobe.
Basic advises:
light blue or white shirts, light blue bengal stripes.
dark red or dark blue ties with little dots or purple basketweave, maybe hermes.
charcoal or dark navy suits, solid or pinstripe, three buttons, notch lapels.
NO black socks. Either navy or charcoal.
Black shoes, from a reputable maker like Crockett and Jones. This is where you shouldn't skimp on. Nothing else will matter as much as your shoes.

!luc

 

[Boertjje]

SimonC _o_ Really dunno how could I thank you on so comprehensive answer as well as to other people that added things.
This is exactly what I was looking but couldn't find.. things are much better now

Was so excited while reading the post.
Luc-Emmanuel investment, the thing is I don't follow trends that much in terms of suits.. I never wear a suit unless I had to, now it will become everyday life

But even I am not from there and no idea what is their preference.
And isn't it normal that newbie stands out, as every1 has his/her first time?

Thanks a lot again _o_

 

[SimonC]

You're more than welcome - at the back of my mind was always the thought that if someone had given me the same advice upon graduation I'd have saved a lot of money and time making wrong decisions.

I'm glad Luc-Emmanuel has re-enforced the shoe message, and I now stand corrected on the sock issue!

I think the thing about being new to something is that if you look even slightly accomplished in what you're doing, you're going to stand out from your peers. I went for drinks with a couple of newly-recruited graduates the other day. One was obviously from a well-to-do family and was wearing broadly what has been described above - 3 button SB suit in dark blue, white / blue bengal stripe shirt with a dark maroon tie, and a good pair of calfskin brogues. He looked as thoughe he would slot in (sartorially) neatly a couple of management levels higher. Learning how his appearance communicates to others is one less thing he's going to have to learn to progress.

The other grad was wearing a very loud shirt, a cheap and boxily-cut shirt, and a pair of low-grade square-toe loafers. And worst of all a cheap, shiny half-length leather jacket. Whilst he's a great guy and will hopefully do well, it worries me that he doesn't realise the image he's projecting - and in fact took some perverse pleasure at how little his suit cost when the discussion steered that way.

One final thought - it was very sound advice that Concordia gave. If you get a chance to spend a day in the offices of one or more of the firms you're hoping to work for, make a note of what the employees are wearing. Discount the obvious outliers, but what you're left with should give you a fairly good understanding of what you need to look like. Then aim a little higher - always dress like your managers not your peers.

 

[Boertjje]

I completely understand what are you talking about.
And really appreciate it.
After all as someone said 'Its not about what you say, but what you wear'

Hmm.. not really what I think, but certainly how you look is how will people on first sight make opinion about you and so on.

Anyways, just one question about this.. why is it that you focus on 3 button suit? What would be wrong with 2 button?

Anyways, I am gonna buy these days one lace-up Oxfords Bally shoes (or whatever those are called that have like spots, and like a flower made on the top if you know what am I talking about), which are very good imo. I'll post pic later when I get them..

 

[SimonC]

Those shoes sound like brogues.

I prefer a 2 button suit, but it's a case of what you prefer and what looks better on you. The more buttons, the 'boxier' a suit will look and hence it won't fit you as well as a 2-button suit. If you look, most cheap mens suits have 3 or even 4 buttons. 1-button suits are rare, and it's virtually impossible to find a cheap one - men with no interest in style generally don't want to stand out from the crowd, which a 1 button suit may do.

 

[Jared]

Originally Posted by Luc-Emmanuel

NO black socks. Either navy or charcoal.
I thought "the English...wear maroon socks with everything"?

 

[The Happy Stroller]

No black socks?

Originally Posted by Luc-Emmanuel

What kind of position have you been offered? Is it investment banking or retail banking?
Honestly, if you don't know how to dress for the job, you will stand out in many other ways than your wardrobe.
...<snip>...
NO black socks. Either navy or charcoal.
...<snip>...
!luc