Church's Appreciation Thread

[GZero]

Quick question on the Church's.

The vast majority of the shoes I see are listed are "custom grade" - however there is clearly a difference; there is a £300 price point, a £400 and then £530 (which sometimes get referred too as Premier). All some of the made in the UK and some in Italy?

Any points would be of great help.

Thanks in advance

 

[Ich_Dien]

Mainly down to leather quality, style and sole used. Ever since Prada took over the line has been diffused somewhat, and more "accessible" models are available as well as the standard Custom Grade options. The higher line has better quality leather and oak bark channeled soles.

 

[Pierson v Post]

Thrifted these Church's Custom Grade shoes today. Just found out they are on the old 73 last, 1970's vintage.

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Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

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[Mr Knightley]

I would say they are definitely pre-Prada. The model name is normally written by hand on the inside close to the position of the writing you have displayed. From your pic I can make out 80 F 73 I think. What clues from the other symbols?

 

[Pierson v Post]

Here are 2 more pictures, 1 from each shoe:

 

[alexSF]



Here are 2 more pictures, 1 from each shoe:

They're some decades old, probably from 80's.

 

[NewStart]

Thrifted these Church's Custom Grade shoes today. I'm thinking pre-Prada since there is no "Milan" on the insole.
How do I tell which model they are?

Chetwynd?

http://www.church-footwear.com/uk/en/collection/men/A13999WFF0AAB

 

[Pierson v Post]

I just received a reply from Church's regarding my shoes. Looking good after 40 years!:

I am afraid I can’t really enlighten you further to the name of the shoes as they are very old and not on our current systems. They are a full brogue probably dating back to the 1970s, the only thing I can tell you is the are size 8F and made over the very old 73 last.

 

[Zapasman]

Wow, those are really old. It is a pity the previous owner did not use a shoehorn. Nice shoes indeed.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

More pictures showing the difference between the 173 (brand new) and 103 (4 years of use) lasts. Is interesting how slight changes in volumes and proportions can change the "face" of a shoe. Both shoes are using Church's Suffolk shoetrees.

 

[alexSF]

^100 or 103?

It should be the 100, never seen the 103 used on an oxford and it is way chunkier

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Hello Alex

I checked and the last is 100, more pics for reference.

It seams that Church's used to name the captoe oxford without decoration Balmoral and renamed it as Consul, maybe some fellow member could share some information about this. The 100 last is too chunky for formal ocations but great for a day in the office or for light packing bussines trips where you have to walk a lot, be comfortable and show some formality. Well, it works that way for my feet.

 

[geebee321]

'It seems that some years ago Church's called their oxfords (the model without any decoration) Balmoral and renamed it as Consul'

Hi Juan. Just a small but important point here: an 'Oxford' shoe is not necessarily 'without any decoration', as you describe it. It refers purely to the closed-lacing system, whereby the vamp is stitched on top of the quarters, as opposed to the opposite way round, whereby the quarters are on top of the vamp. This latter way produces an open-lacing system, which is the opposite of an Oxford, and shoes of this kind are called 'Derby'. A 'Balmoral' is traditionally an Oxford with a high top, i.e. a boot rather than a shoe (most boots are made with the open-laced system, and are thus Derbies). The Church 'Consul' is therefore a name given to a cap-toe Oxford shoe. Oxfords often have decoration (especially brogueing).

I have owned several pairs of Church shoes, and still have three. One is the Grafton, a full brogue Derby in shell cordovan, which I bought in 1989. The sole has come away from the upper, and I am not sure it is reparable. I shall take them to John Rushton in Wigmore Street to find out. I have not bought any Church shoe post Prada, however. I do still wear my almost 30-year old 'Henley' black Oxford full brogues occasionally.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Hello Geebee321

You are right (thank you for pointing the mistake), I should have said "it seams that Church's used to name the captoe oxford without decoration Balmoral and renamed it as Consul" (the original post has been edited). As you can see in the pictures below, inside the shoe is handwritten Balmoral (the 100 last) and Consul (the 173 last).

Is also interesting that "Balmoral" is the name for boots with oxford lacing system.

 

[Chowkin]

Juan, I note that your Balmorals don't have the "Custom Grade" insignia. Could it be that they are the regular line model?