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Church's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Closer, Mar 30, 2009.

  1. dbshoelover

    dbshoelover Member

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    Great, thanks for letting me know English shoes. Yes, I found the fit of Betis' not that great. I have my eye on my Lanark too. Will let you know.
     
  2. dbshoelover

    dbshoelover Member

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    Jun 22, 2016
    Hi English Shoes,

    I spoke to the stores and confirmed they have a sale on. However, I looked at Church's website but there is no indication of any sale. Which website did you look at please?

    Thanks
     
  3. EnglishShoes

    EnglishShoes Senior member

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    Newcastle, UK
    In store only. Deal directly with them.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. randan

    randan Member

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    Jun 30, 2016
    Firt post here.

    I wonder if you could give me some advice concerning the sizing of Church’s Ryder Chukka boots as I am not sure, what size to get. In sneakers I wear normally size 7.5 (UK sizing), I also have some Chukka boots from Red Wing and some from Timberland in the same size (the confusing part is, that in some shoes I have, a UK 7.5 is size 41 in others it corresponds to size 41.5). I consider my feet as normally wide (F Medium fit). What size for the Church’s Ryder would you recommend?

    Thank you in advance.
     
  5. letsgofire

    letsgofire Senior member

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    Aug 24, 2012
    The Paris stores - as part of the seasonal 'soldes' - have 40% off and a great selection. In particular the Rue Saint Honore store had many different styles including the usual trendier ones they put out for sales but also some very traditional styles in brown and black.
     
  6. Lollie

    Lollie Senior member

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    Feb 14, 2013
    Are the Leyton's on sale?
     
  7. letsgofire

    letsgofire Senior member

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    Sorry I'm no longer in Paris
     
  8. thuhoan

    thuhoan Active Member

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  9. rakuskus

    rakuskus Member

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    Any leather quality difference from nevada vs calf vs betis vs non custom grade (exclude polished binder and suede)? How about the featherweight vs non featherweight? Church's shoe line really confusing
     
  10. Nikola

    Nikola Senior member

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    Paging @bengal-stripe for the assistance and anyone else knowledgeable enough regarding the pre-prada shoes.

    The box says Sandalwood aniline calf, where the Sandalwood is probably just a colour name, however, I am worried regarding the aniline calf. There's also a small "Bookbinder finish leather" booklet that's coming with these 1980s Church's.

    So, does the aniline calf and bookbinder means these shoes actually got a acrylic/plasticky layer and that the pores of the calf leather are sealed and hardly polished with regular cremes and also prone to ugly creases?

    [​IMG]
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  11. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Italy
    

    The Polished Binder booklet comes from another shoes and it isn't related.

    The shoes above (I've seen the original listing) aren't Bookbinder.
    I think Aniline Calf is the church's name for box calf, aniline dyed is essentially every hide pre-coloured during tannage, opposed to crust leathers.

    This kind of leathers have a flat, uniform color and it will take polish like any other full grain leather.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  12. Nikola

    Nikola Senior member

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    Thanks a lot. So, you believe the seller had probably just trow in that bookbinder booklet in the photo above from some other pair?

    Yes, one of the specs is the uniform color, however I believe I've read somewhere that this type of a leather is hard on accepting any cream and waxes as it has some synthetic layer which prevents even the rain to enter the pores of the shoes. I wouldn't really want that ..
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. JUAN MANUEL

    JUAN MANUEL Senior member

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    May 12, 2011
    I have just recieved a new pair of Consul in 173 last in walnut calf from Herrings (as always ecellent service). With this shoes my Oxfords stock is fullfilled, well, maybe a pair in dark brown will come in the future for navy suits. The 173 last is great for my feet and visually has the perfect balance of heft (without looking like a mailman shoe) or being too sleek. I own a pair of AS Armfield in 109 last in the same colour, but Church's 173 is the winner, eventhough I appreciate Sargent's craft and leather (love the Stepney and Ramsey).

    So here you can see a pair of Consul in black in 103 last and chesnut in 73; black, brown suede and walnut in 173 last. All of them in F fit, all of them fron Herring's, the black one in 103 was my first pair of good shoes.


    [​IMG]
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    2 people like this.
  14. Nikola

    Nikola Senior member

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    Whoa, nice @JUAN MANUEL .. Always nice to see a guy sticking to what he likes most. I was lucky enough to acquire a pair of a 1984 completely unworn Black Calf 73 G fit lasted Consul, and the quality of those blows out of water the current line of Crockett Jones Oxford easily. I will post some photos when I get my new camera in a couple of weeks .. I was also considering the 173 lasted Consul in brown but was uncertain of their current quality. Seems like there is definitely no love for a post prada styles here ..
     
  15. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Clean and nice collection!!. Congrats.
     
  16. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    I had them on my hands and they were very well made.

    Again, Classic Churchs "Custom Grade" (Chestwynd/Grafton/Diplomat/Consul/etc) are brilliant shoes, yesterday and today. They are manufactured by Cheaney in England under the supervision of Mr. Church (the owner of that company that sold Church´s Shoes to Prada long ago).
     
  17. EnglishShoes

    EnglishShoes Senior member

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    Wait, the main Church models are made in the Cheaney factory?

    What is made in the Church's factory then?
     
  18. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Wrong information...

    Churchs and Cheaney shoes are actually produced in different places and owned by different people.

    Churchs family used to own both brands and factories, then sold all to Prada (Bertelli) in the 90's

    Later they (Church family) reacquired the Cheaney company.

    They are actually completely unrelated companies and they make shoes in two separate factories.

    From Cheaney website:

    In August, 2009, cousins Jonathan and William Church conducted a management buy-out of Cheaney from Church & Co (by then a wholly owned subsidiary of Prada). They now own and operate the company and are committed to continuing the production of high quality shoes entirely made in Northamptonshire, from the cutting out of the leather to the final polishing, just as it was in 1886."

    Where did you found this bizarre information?
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
  19. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    I hope I will find the article for you. I just mentioned the custom grade line as I read so in an interview with the churchs family. Churchs makes shoes for other brands too and if I recall correctly, Prada group reached an agreement with the Church family to produce that line under their personal supervision in the Cheany factory. Give some time to find it, too late here sorry..
     
  20. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    @Alex and @Englishshoes, I must admit that today I couldn´t find the article where I am almost sure Mr Church admits they took over the production of Church´s custom grade line at Cheany at least at the time the article was written. I will keep my search some other day since I am on hollidays. Hope is not in my imaginery as far as I do not like to spread any kind of rumor, specially of this kind and here. I will come back to you as soon as I can. Should I have to apologize, I won´t hesitate to do so. Until then I will admit that is only a presumption.
     

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