CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE FW2014

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jan 19, 2014.

  1. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009


  2. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

    Messages:
    6,115
    Likes Received:
    15,321
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2007
    Location:
    DC
    Not digging this as much as the last two FW collections-- it's a bit sleepy this time around, less imaginative.

    That said, I'm intrigued by the elongated and squared-off silhouettes of the tailored garments. I def need to get my hands on one of those crazy double-breasted suits. And most of the coats look great.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014


  3. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,766
    Likes Received:
    12,763
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    I'm a sucker for swaths of camel and drapey tweed. but agree this one is a little flat and sleepy. those blazers are droopy in a bad way. I quite like that first coat and the tan raincoat/trench/parka thing tho. would wear those for sure.

    on a different note, I always enjoy the location/setting of his photography -- this one included. curious, what do you think of this collection sipang?
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014


  4. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,646
    Likes Received:
    3,144
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    I liked the first coat too. But generally, soporific.
     


  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA


  6. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

    Messages:
    5,124
    Likes Received:
    429
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    I think it's great.
     


  7. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    all the proportions look clunky to me, with only a few exceptions (agree that the first coat is really nice). it's a weird combination of too large and too structured (which is very 80s), as opposed to large but languid or relaxed or whatever you want to call it. i think that's why i never really love the stuff i see of his in person either. the fabrics often seem a little too rigid for the cut. he seems to do a lot of really structured twills, for instance, at least from what I've noticed. clearly it's intentional. he's got a really defined vision. it's just not for me.
     


  8. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

    Messages:
    6,115
    Likes Received:
    15,321
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2007
    Location:
    DC
    I see what you're saying, though it's not quite fair to characterize the whole line as stiff/structured. Each collection has lots of pieces that drape really well

    I'm also curious to see how the suiting will look once it actually hits stores, since retailers tend to style his stuff in a much more fitted way than the lookbooks suggest.

    Also where's the knitwear????!!!! this season is way lacking in knits
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014


  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    

    i didn't. i was just saying that about the fabrics I've handled in person. admittedly I haven't seen everything, just what assembly ny and atelier have carried for the last couple years. i do think the designs in this collection tend more in that direction than past ones though.
     


  10. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

    Messages:
    5,124
    Likes Received:
    429
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    I dunno, this doesn't really seem like a departure to me at all. Just Lemaire doing more Lemaire. I think you guys are confused because it's shot in a very different way than previous collections have. The ideas and fabrics are pretty similar...these a little less tweed/textured fabric here, that's about it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014


  11. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    Don't think anyone called it a departure. Just a less successful collection
     


  12. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    No idea how the stuff will look in stores or on ppl but you know what ? I think this really cool. Sure, it lacks the relaxed opulence of the previous collections and it might look a bit flat (although the lighting and background are at least partially to blame for that) but as a collection and aesthetic proposition (!) I think it's actually stronger and leaner than FW13 and FW12. I always appreciate how Lemaire manages to channel inspirations and silhouettes from the past in such a subtle and considered way that it never devolves into pastiche but instead adds depth and character to his outfits. It always feels current (clearly opinions vary on this) and yet it's also strongly evocative of something older. I think this is because the way Lemaire references his inspirations and influences is never too obvious or literal but it goes to the essence of things: it cares more about being pragmatic than being iconic. The end result is that it looks less like fashion and more like real everyday no nonsense outfits worn by real people (however stylish), there's a concreteness to it.

    What's great in this case is that Lemaire achieves this with such a pared-down collection. He cuts the jackets a bit longer and the leathers a bit looser, he layers with vests etc. Those minimal tweaks are a testament to the subtlety and sensibility of his approach. It's almost nothing and it's just enough to hint at 50s and 80s looks (Parisian looks I'd venture but that's pure conjecture), but just in passing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014


  13. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,766
    Likes Received:
    12,763
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    thanks sipang. very well put. I didn't see the 50s reference at first but now I kinda do -- I guess the jeans and biker jacket-vest (duh) or the teddy boy length blazer. you're very right about his subtle approach.
     


  14. chinesealpha

    chinesealpha Senior member

    Messages:
    415
    Likes Received:
    247
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2013


  15. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by