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Choosing shirt fabric online

KayJay85

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Was wondering what tips folks have when it comes to choosing a fabric from online MTM outfits such as ModernTailor, Cottonworks etc

Aside from the well-known brands such as Alumo and Thomas Mason, what do you aim for (in terms of X ply and thread count) when selecting lower tier fabrics?

What I am looking for is fabrics in-line with RTW at Jermyn St shops and from their websites I can tell they typically use 2ply cotton, but no mention of thread count etc

Thanks in advance

KJ
 

nmprisons

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Things like thread count can be indicators of quality, but where the fabric was made and by whom play a much larger role. Some of the 2x80 coming out of, say, England are quite nice while some of the 2x80 coming out of, say, china are quite terrible.
 

KayJay85

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Agreed, unfortunately most online MTM shirtmakers dont give disclosure of the mills location etc (unless I missed it)

Just trying to get a sense of whether I should aim for 2x 180s VS 1x 80s (as 2 extremes) to get fabric that is most similar to what I can get OTR on Jermyn St
 

jcriswel

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Originally Posted by KayJay85
Was wondering what tips folks have when it comes to choosing a fabric from online MTM outfits such as ModernTailor, Cottonworks etc Aside from the well-known brands such as Alumo and Thomas Mason, what do you aim for (in terms of X ply and thread count) when selecting lower tier fabrics? What I am looking for is fabrics in-line with RTW at Jermyn St shops and from their websites I can tell they typically use 2ply cotton, but no mention of thread count etc Thanks in advance KJ
You may have read this already. I think it is an excellent resource: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...irtFabrics.htm.
  • Besides knowing about shirtings, it is important to stay with 2-ply.
  • Name brand helps.
  • Recommendations from members of the forum help.
It's hard to judge intangibles like thickness and hand when reviewing fabrics online. Knowing the shirting is broadcloth versus oxford helps. The former is thinner. Higher thread count does not equate to a superior shirting. These are harder to manufacture and not as durable. They do have a better hand, but you might be interested in a shirt with more durability and chose a shirting with a lower thread count. It is hard to pick a good shirting. My suggestion is to identify what you're looking for first and go from there.
 

Shirtmaven

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lets start over!!

years past you could safely say that two ply was better then single ply.

but the mills are now producing 70/1 in compact constructions that are better then 80/2 or100/2

next most cheap ass online mtm shirt companies are buing fabric out of china.
China has imporved but you can do better in India, where the italians have made investments in factories Monti india is the best known. other India mills are turning out quality fabrics. Maybe not up to the standards of some of the high end european mills, but quite nice.

the indian mills do have a tendency to finish with more resins. this give the fabric that super smooth feel that will eventually wash away.

Alumo and Albiini are both more expensive then other european mills with out fancy marketing departments.

there is no shirtiing comiing out of English mills. At least none that I am aware of.

back to your question about fabrics.

what do you expect from a $50 MTM shirt. wear it for two years if it fits and the fusings dont shrink too much. then buy something new.
 

mimile

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It is important to use the 2x2. Generally speaking, the price of the fabric increases with the thread count (200>170>140>100>80). The same is true for wrinkling and transparency (showing underwear and chest hair, in case). The weight per metre decreases generally with higher count. From the other side, higher thread count means that the fabric is more silky.
I have 2x2 80's and 100's from Acornfabrics. This is excellent quality. For everyday business wear I would not go personally for a higher thread count.
 

KayJay85

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Thanks for your opinions everyone, especially Carl

Its really a question of whether the fabrics in between the 1x 80s and the TM/Alumo is worth it I suppose

From mimile it sounds like 2x 100s is a good level to work with
 

Xenon

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I really agree with shirtmaven, the Monti is quite nice especially in the 200s twill. I would say the feel is almost as good as the DJA 200 twill.

If you are really concerned with price, I find the 140s in Monti and TM to be sweet spots for quality durability, softness and price. And remember that some of the highest grade shirtings may feel delicate but they are actually fairly strong and durable
 

RSS

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This is a tough one. No matter what information is given ... the first time around I want to touch/feal ... especially shirting. If it's a cloth I've handled before ... I don't hesitate to order online.
 

KayJay85

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Thank everyone for your opinions and advice

Looks like somewhat of a trial and error approach, at least when dealing with online shirtmakers as it can be hard to get a sample book
 

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