Choosing collar for dress shirt worn without tie

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by esvoboda, Mar 27, 2004.

  1. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

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    I am planning to order some custom dress shirts that will be worn almost exclusively without a tie. I know the general guidelines for choosing a collar to flatter the face but it would seem that these guidelines are based on the assumption that a tie is worn. Without a tie, the geometry is different. I am thinking that a more narrow collar than one wears with a tie would make sense. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

    Thanks,

    -Ed
     
  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A dress shirt worn with out a tie looks best with either a Close or straight point collar or a very wide spread.

    Point length should be 3-3 1/4". the style is now for very high collar bands which might have two buttons. I would avoid the very high bands over 1 1/2" in front. In a year or two they will be out of style. I have seen too many guys wearing very high collars that look out of balance.
     
  3. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    According to guide books, I should be wearing a point collar (narrow spread), but I have found this unflattering on me and everyone. I think it is the narrow spread of the collar itself. I wear a wide spread/cutaway with ties and without, and I'm happy. In America, shirts with wide spread/cutaway collars may be perceived as high quality, as most common shirts have point collars. I am also happy when I see someone wearing a spread collar shirt, as, in all probability, the person wearing it understands the different shirt collars available (this was more so in earlier times when spread collars were relatively uncommon in middle-market American shirts). I think among those who care about style, spread collars serve as signalling devices. [​IMG]
     
  4. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    The most important things anyone must consider is there personal tastes.  It really doesn't matter what a guidebook says.  If you are uncomfortable in your look, it will come accross that way.
     
  5. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Do you think it makes a difference whether you will be wearing the shirt alone or with a jacket? I don't have any hard and fast guidelines but from my experience what looks good alone sometimes doesn't look good with a jacket on. In particular, though this doesn't happen to me, I have seen people with a shirt unbuttoned under a jacket and the points under the lapels so the collar falls inward and looks horrible. Is that a function of a too soft collar or a particular collar style? It seems to me buttondown collars would be more likely to do this.
     
  6. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    I tend to view the wider the spread of the collar, the more formal the shirt tends to look. Since it is business casual at the firm I work for, I will not be putting on a tie with the shirts I wear. I am looking for shirts that have wider spreads for the collar to wear opened-collared. How do you feel about spread collars and cut-aways being worn open-collared? Which collars do you think look best opened? I personally think the wide spread and cut-away collars worn opened looks stellar.
     
  7. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    I am in absolute agreement with you.
     
  8. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Thumb Raider

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    I am in absolute agreement with you.


    like this?

    [​IMG]

    Shown here with sweater.
     
  9. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    bump

    I have the same question.
     
  10. mpieniaz

    mpieniaz Active Member

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    Others may disagree but I despise anything but a button down collar worn without a tie.
     
  11. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    bump

    I have the same question.


    nothing changed since 2004..
     
  12. SmartCasual

    SmartCasual Member

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    I suggest you a wide open collar, with stays but a soft interlining.
    I usually wear it without a tie. It stands up all the day, and you can wear it under a V sweater or a suit jacket.

    Attached you can see a photo about standard measure.
    They are in cm
    [​IMG]
     

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