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Chipped MOP Buttons

Eli Curt

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I picked up this jacket on fleabay, the world's marketplace, and while I'm very pleased with the overall quality and fit, 3 or 4 total buttons on the cuffs came chipped or cracked in half. One of the main belly buttons (pardon the pun) came marred.

So: do I say something? How much of a pain is it to replace these (in NYC)?

I included a fit pic at the end so you can see how nice the fit is.
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breakaway01

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Try the store Tender Buttons to see if they can match the buttons. If not, a full set of MOP buttons isn’t too expensive. Sew them on yourself. If you’ve never done it before, it’ll take you a couple of hours and then you’ll be able to replace your own buttons from now on.
 

Eli Curt

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Try the store Tender Buttons to see if they can match the buttons. If not, a full set of MOP buttons isn’t too expensive. Sew them on yourself. If you’ve never done it before, it’ll take you a couple of hours and then you’ll be able to replace your own buttons from now on.
Thanks, I will. Her response, in case you're curious:
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It was not cracked, we did all pictures just minutes before we packed and shipped. All buttons been in perfect shape. My husband never worn this jacket as i explained because it fitted him perfectly only sleeves been way too long.
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I wonder if it's possible for the buttons to crack in half like this in shipping. Either way, I will try to replace.
 

breakaway01

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much more likely that the buttons were cracked by improper pressing. Hard to imagine that they could have cracked in shipping.
 

Eli Curt

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much more likely that the buttons were cracked by improper pressing. Hard to imagine that they could have cracked in shipping.
I agree. The canvas also has a crease in it just as the lapel forms and it goes up almost to the notch. I've been trying to work it out with my hand but it's not staying. Alternate option?
 

breakaway01

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Search on SF for a reputable cleaner in NY (pretty sure I've seen threads on this) who can restore the lapel roll. Alternatively, you could try pressing out the crease yourself with a moistened press cloth and an iron.
 

Eli Curt

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Search on SF for a reputable cleaner in NY (pretty sure I've seen threads on this) who can restore the lapel roll. Alternatively, you could try pressing out the crease yourself with a moistened press cloth and an iron.
I will probably do that. The press cloth sounds dangerous. I don't want to iron (and potentially cause irrevocable harm) to such a handsome piece of cloth.
 

Eli Curt

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Search on SF for a reputable cleaner in NY (pretty sure I've seen threads on this) who can restore the lapel roll. Alternatively, you could try pressing out the crease yourself with a moistened press cloth and an iron.
Also? While I'm by the button shop, maybe I can stop by Isaia and ask them to smooth out the collar roll. Do retail stores do that?
 

Anachronist

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Dear Eli,

Do you have the possibility of returning the jacket? I do not want to spoil your joy in this jacket but my first impression from the picture is that it is too short for you and that at least the right sleeve needs to be a little longer, which is not going to be possible to alter anymore because of the buttonholes. I share this problem with Italian jackets, which are so beautifully made, but tailored for less "Germanic" proportions and more for the nimbler Mediterranean guys.

I'd return it on the case of the buttons (NEVER seen any break in transit) and fit.
 

Eli Curt

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Dear Eli,

Do you have the possibility of returning the jacket? I do not want to spoil your joy in this jacket but my first impression from the picture is that it is too short for you and that at least the right sleeve needs to be a little longer, which is not going to be possible to alter anymore because of the buttonholes. I share this problem with Italian jackets, which are so beautifully made, but tailored for less "Germanic" proportions and more for the nimbler Mediterranean guys.

I'd return it on the case of the buttons (NEVER seen any break in transit) and fit.
I believe that the shorter length is intentional. Also, it seems the buttons are a pretty easy fix. Regarding the right sleeve, it was just bunched up a bit. They're actually pretty close to perfect.
 

Anachronist

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Possibly, but the more important question is, does it look good on you? I understand you may have fallen for this jacket (which Imcan understand, the fabrics of Isaia and other top notch Italian tailors are gorgeous) and I know these short jackets are very much en vogue these days, but I have my reservations about them for a simple reason: Have someone take a picture of you from behind. What you'll find with the short jackets is that ones derrière sticks out and depending on how prominent ones rear is those jackets can be either flattering or emphasizing something you might not want to emphasize that much ;) Typically, this style fits shorter, slim men with a more "boy-ish" figure better (if I may use this expression without meaning anything negative). If you're tall, it can look like you are wearing a jacket you have grown out of.

My guess in terms of it being too short was also based on the fact that the buttons appear very high. The top button on a two-bitton jacket should approximately be a the hight of your navel.

Don't take my post as trying to pus you to retun it; just trying to help you look good :)
 

Eli Curt

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Possibly, but the more important question is, does it look good on you? I understand you may have fallen for this jacket (which Imcan understand, the fabrics of Isaia and other top notch Italian tailors are gorgeous) and I know these short jackets are very much en vogue these days, but I have my reservations about them for a simple reason: Have someone take a picture of you from behind. What you'll find with the short jackets is that ones derrière sticks out and depending on how prominent ones rear is those jackets can be either flattering or emphasizing something you might not want to emphasize that much ;) Typically, this style fits shorter, slim men with a more "boy-ish" figure better (if I may use this expression without meaning anything negative). If you're tall, it can look like you are wearing a jacket you have grown out of.

My guess in terms of it being too short was also based on the fact that the buttons appear very high. The top button on a two-bitton jacket should approximately be a the hight of your navel.

Don't take my post as trying to pus you to retun it; just trying to help you look good :)
I got out of bed this morning thinking I would try it on and validate all of your above-mentioned reasons. I was really open-minded...I was! Then I out it on and forgot everything. I just really like the way it feels and fits!

Button open and button closed:
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Eli Curt

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For comparison, here is one size up (a 42) from Isaia that I am selling because I don't like the fit. You may say this is more conventional with the length but I do not care for so much material.

I am 6'1", 175 lb. with a 32" waist and my lineage is Germanic.
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stubloom

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Here's my 2 cents..

1. FIT Consult a tailor. Determine if the jacket can be properly tailored to improve the fit and the cost to do so. An ill-fitting suit is worthless notwithstanding the bargain price paid to the reseller or the original MSRP at the store.

2. CRACKED OR CHIPPED BUTTONS I seriously doubt that all those buttons chipped and cracked in transit. We receive thousands of suit jackets and sport coats through the mail every year and rarely do we encounter chipped or cracked buttons. If we do see such buttons, the client typically tells us that the buttons were damaged by a previous cleaner and requests that we replace them. A true quality cleaner who handles fine garments as a matter of routine will have a complete supply of MOP suit buttons on hand to accommodate such circumstances.

3. LAPEL ROLL A true quality cleaner like Meurice or Hallak in NYC (not the cleaner across the street or around the corner) will know how to fix the lapel roll. I'm not sure why you would expect Isaia to fix the lapel on a sport coat purchased online from an internet reseller.

SUMMARY

If the fit is good (or has been corrected by your tailor), find a true quality cleaner who can
(a) clean the coat for you (wearing a sport coat purchased from a reseller that has not been cleaned before you wear it is unhygienic),
(b) hand press the coat and in the process, fix the roll of the lapel, and
(c) supply and re-shank those chipped/cracked MOP buttons.

Hope this helps.
 
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