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Chinos fit advice

GaiusM

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First time poster, long time lurker.
I have had trouble getting the proper fit for chinos and trousers. I am fairly muscular with big legs and a big squat butt, 180 cm tall and I live in Japan where clothes are not designed for people of my stature.
I bought a pair of Buzz Rickson Original Spec Chinos due to their alleged roominess and quality. The first pair I bought was way too tight around the hips so I went up two sizes and had the waist taken in a bit. Unfortunately the new pair still shows signs of tightness, or at least I think so.
Pics are from a day of work, mostly sitting on the train and at a desk. They feel fine however the folds at the top near the belt and the coin pocket worry me as well as the excessive creasing, though the latter may be due to the material. The belt loops look like they are pulling upwards and the waist is almost collapsing inwards yet the pants fit the exact same without the belt, there is no tension on the belt itself. Pockets are flaring a bit which I know is a bad sign. The same things happened with the smaller size but then the thigh area was really tight and constricted.
Is the cut just wrong for me? Are there any alterations I could have done to make them fit more appropriately? Again these are the roomiest available. Should I just chalk them as a loss and look for another brand?
Thanks in advance, any advice is appreciated.
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Panama

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Order from Brooks Brothers - Milano fit? or Land's End - Traditional fit.They fit chunky guys perfectly.
 

PDandG

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Seems like typical new chino creasing to me. I always find that chinos stretch a decent bit as I wear and wash them over time, but YMMV.

You might want to try some other brands and see if it truly is just the model. I have similar issues with my thighs being too large for some brands and models. Uniqlo's Vintage Chino is something to consider on the affordable end. If you can spend more, perhaps Ring Jacket or Bryceland's in Tokyo would be good places to start.
 
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GMcMillan

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The only off-the-rack chino I can wear without any alterations needed is the Ralph Lauren relaxed fit chino (also called Suffield). Unfortunately, they stopped making it in 2017-18, but you can still find them on eBay. I suggest checking eBay, taking a guess at waist size. If you can measure your waist (well, around the hips where chinos sit), I could compare against mine and estimate a waist size for you. The waist size and actually measurement varies wildly between brands and even within brands from year to year and style to style.

Edit: My thighs are very large, a blessing and a curse. I can squat 400lbs but need to have all my trousers custom made.
 

GaiusM

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Seems like typical new chino creasing to me.
Ring Jacket or Bryceland's in Tokyo would be good places to start.
In other words they don't appear too tight?
I went to Ring Jacket today. Their largest size was very, very snug. The sales man said they could let it out by 2 cm but I am quite hesitant to spend that much on trousers that in his (translated) words would "maybe" fit alright.
I am leaning heavily towards going MTM. Speaking of do you have any recommendations for shops in Tokyo? Or just Trad/Classic menswear shops in general.
I can squat 400lbs but need to have all my trousers custom made.
Custom made is where I am leaning towards. A pain but worth it to have something that fits decently.
 

PDandG

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In other words they don't appear too tight?
I went to Ring Jacket today. Their largest size was very, very snug. The sales man said they could let it out by 2 cm but I am quite hesitant to spend that much on trousers that in his (translated) words would "maybe" fit alright.
I am leaning heavily towards going MTM. Speaking of do you have any recommendations for shops in Tokyo? Or just Trad/Classic menswear shops in general.

Custom made is where I am leaning towards. A pain but worth it to have something that fits decently.
They seem ok to me. I think a few more washes and wears will give you a better idea.

I can only make broad assumptions on Tokyo shops. Brycelands is the recommendation I could make based on my limited knowledge. The owner, Ethan Newton, has a broader build and may be able to help you. Fair warning, their stuff isn’t cheap.
 
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