Chester Mox Appreciation Thread -- Bespoke, Ready-Made, and MTO Leathergoods

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Jul 11, 2016.

  1. dcjohnson

    dcjohnson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2013
    They make purses with zippers
     


  2. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

    Messages:
    980
    Likes Received:
    883
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Boston, MA, USA
    

    Yes i personally like that, especially if you already have one that is more classic in design.

    I know Bellanie does smaller portofolios and zipper wallets so she does work with riri zippers to some extent. I am not sure if this would be a bigger scale than she is used, but i would assume she would be just fine.
    It can also be a zipper on top and down one side to allow you to store/remove you laptop easy.
     


  3. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

    Messages:
    980
    Likes Received:
    883
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Boston, MA, USA
    

    Yes they do.
    They also make pants with zippers
     


  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Likes Received:
    13,008
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    Any thoughts on whether that sort of design is too dressy for true-blue casual clothing? I'm talking like jeans and a field jacket, or jeans and a bomber jacket. I like those SAB designs a lot, but for some reason, I think of them as something for an executive office (maybe an association with no basis).


    Wait, what? Really?
     


  5. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

    Messages:
    980
    Likes Received:
    883
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Boston, MA, USA
    

    I guess it all depends on cultural context and your personal style, but IMO the SAB design with the zipper is more casual than the flap-over design and is perfect for casual jeans/bomber jacket attire.
    When you say casual my mind automatically goes to jeans as that is what I wear when not at work. I wear suits and sometimes odd/jacket trouswrs at work and then only jeans outside. Come to think of it i am not sure i own any non denim casual pants...


    The choice of leather also is going to affect the formality of the folio. The one you showed is "fancier" than what i would expect at your average starbucks, but if you substitute a tan or navy leather it would look much more casual.

    For example a simple design like this one is very casual even with black leather, more so with more casual leathers

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2016


  6. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

    Messages:
    791
    Likes Received:
    1,522
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Location:
    Upstate
    @dieworkwear I am not sure what kind of style you are looking for but I rummaged through some of my Swiss medic pouches and rucksacks and I really like some of the details. They really used simple functional designs. Not too useful for overall design, but nice details for handles and closures.

    A few images for reference:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is the front panel which unsnaps and drops down. May not be practical but awesome none the less:
    [​IMG]

    DL-
     


  7. Jr Mouse

    Jr Mouse Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    17,663
    Likes Received:
    2,833
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Location:
    All of time and space, everything that ever was or
    

    I agree. I'd say it's most up the details in how casual the item will come across. The leather choices, hardware types and color have a big impact on this. If the details are right a flap over or zipper portfolio can pair nicely with casual attire. FWIW, I learn towards leather shades other then black for casual wear. With hardware I prefer brass.
     


  8. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

    Messages:
    980
    Likes Received:
    883
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Boston, MA, USA
    I do have a zipper (similar to that SAB design you posted) folio in the works right now. Its 31cm (12') x 25 (10') cm x 3 (~1') cm. Its a little smaller than yours as its mostly for papers and such, and maybe my XPS1330 sometimes.

    Anyways its going to be golden barenia outside and lined with light gray/cement chevre and brass/gold accented zipper. Its not through chestermox but will post some pics when I get it so you get an idea what a tan leather zippered folio looks like and if thats something that appeals to you. Its supposed to be done and shipped by August 29th so it will not be for another week and a half. In my mind at least it should a very casual, all around use folio.
     


  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Likes Received:
    13,008
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    





    Thanks for the suggestions, everyone.

    I'm warming up to the idea of a navy zip folio. Definitely more than the "large-scale card case" idea that I was floating earlier.

    Also saw this design yesterday. Like the pen pocket placement a little better than your usual standard design, as it seems like it wouldn't press up against the folio's contents as much, causing bulk. Little bit of stitched leather on the bottom might help keep the sides from looking too plain.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bellanie recently loaned me a briefcase to check out. May post photos of it tomorrow before I return it (it's just on loan to me).
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016


  10. darcys

    darcys Member

    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2016
    I didn't know about this brand. Thank you for the introduction. My favorite wallet they carry is this one:

    [​IMG]
     


  11. Jr Mouse

    Jr Mouse Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    17,663
    Likes Received:
    2,833
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Location:
    All of time and space, everything that ever was or
    

    I believe this is Tusting correct? It's a very functional portfolio design. It is plain, but I agree the stitched leather helps in this department.

    Looking forward to thoughts on the briefcase.
     


  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Likes Received:
    13,008
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Bellanie recently loaned me one of her briefcases to check out. This is a store display sample, so the design is a little flashier than what she normally makes for customers. It's a good example of her workmanship though.

    The case is made from navy Weinheimer Waprolux calf leather, which is what Hermes calls Epsom. If you're familiar with Epsom, you know it's a somewhat stiffer material. Holds it's shape over time, as the leather won't stretch or sag, although it also feels a little more formal. Maybe not as formal as a classic hard-sided briefcase, but more formal than a softer grained leather.

    Some photos of the production (taken from her Instagram). I'm told one of the trickier parts is shaping the side gussets. A little bit of unevenness here will throw off the shape of the briefcase.


    [​IMG]


    Hand skiving the lining, which here is a light blue Rusticalf leather from d'Annonay. A much softer material, maybe akin to glove leather.


    [​IMG]


    Handle is made from American alligator. The leather here is cut and molded in stages, with different layers of material cut into different thickness. The layers are first hand skived with a Blanchard pairing knife, then Bellanie sculpts out the shape using a pairing knife and Barry King French edger. By the end of the day, the handle alone takes about four to five hours to make, from cutting to skiving to sculpting to stitching to finishing the edges.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Final results. I like how the back of the case has an envelope pocket.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Interior with lining. You can see the signs of handsitching here -- little dots where the Waprolux calf leather meets the Rusticalf.


    [​IMG]


    Shaped gusset and handle. I go back and forth on whether I like stiffer or softer leathers for briefcases, but one upside to a stiffer material is that you get a nicer shape on that gusset. Something that basically holds that crease over time, rather than droops down.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Really nice edging, especially on the handle. With a larger surface like this, things could easy look messy, but this one came out very clean. The multiple layers of leather here almost seem like a single piece.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    It's a little hard to see the handwork here since the leather is navy and threads black. I imagine the details would be easier to see if the threads were contrast-colored. Still, if you look closely, you can see how the stitches are slightly angled, even though they follow a straight line, which can only be done by hand.


    [​IMG]


    Some close ups of the lock and clochette (the little bell-shaped cover for the key).


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I think if I were to commission something, I would get a curved flap-over cover that came down a little more. Would also get a slightly more casual leather -- either a softer tan calf or this Saffiano. Really interesting grain, although I don't have a sample here, so I don't know how stiff it is.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    A couple of other briefcase photos I've taken from her blog. The interior pocket design here looks great.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016


  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Likes Received:
    13,008
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    I actually can't remember, but it might be from Tusting. I found the photos on eBay over the weekend and Tusting is one of my saved searches, so it could very well be from them.
     


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Likes Received:
    13,008
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Giving this "card case design in a folio size" idea one more go.

    Would this look bad? Mine would be in navy and not have the metal bits.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2016


  15. Jr Mouse

    Jr Mouse Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    17,663
    Likes Received:
    2,833
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Location:
    All of time and space, everything that ever was or
    

    Yup, I was right.

    I like the design you just posted, but would go for lighter shade of brown. Not navy.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by