Cheaney

[Wrenkin]

Interesting.... I always thought the main idea behind clicking by hand was to allow the clickers to pick out the best parts of the hide (or to cut around blemishes). If they're using a cookie cutter template, would this reduce QC/ result in more seconds than current.

"The leather used for high-end men’s shoes is typically cut by hand – this is one of the processes that historically has been a touchpoint of quality. But Cheaney’s recent £100,000 investment in a CAD cutting machine marks a new age for Northampton makers. Rather than cutting leather using a plastic template, the template is projected onto the cutting table, and the leather is then cut automatically, with greater speed and consistency. “It still means the clicker [the industry term for the cutter] has to select and place the leather to best effect,” says William Church. “We’re reducing the necessary physicality of the job, not the brain power required."​

 

[thatshoeotaku]

"The leather used for high-end men’s shoes is typically cut by hand – this is one of the processes that historically has been a touchpoint of quality. But Cheaney’s recent £100,000 investment in a CAD cutting machine marks a new age for Northampton makers. Rather than cutting leather using a plastic template, the template is projected onto the cutting table, and the leather is then cut automatically, with greater speed and consistency. “It still means the clicker [the industry term for the cutter] has to select and place the leather to best effect,” says William Church. “We’re reducing the necessary physicality of the job, not the brain power required."​

I've heard that part of this is to attract young
blood into the industry. Hand clicking is not exactly the dream job in the 21st century, even in Northampton.

 

[SuitedDx]

The 'clicker' can still eye the leather and place it where the template will go over. I believe it's like a press.

I've heard that part of this is to attract young
blood into the industry. Hand clicking is not exactly the dream job in the 21st century, even in Northampton.

Interesting point of view. My initial thought was it eases up the fine-motor demands of more seasoned clickers who may not have the same dexterity.

 

[Cade]

My Cheaney Barnes iii B after 6 months regular usage and a little TLC.
The most stylish pair of beaters I've ever had the pleasure of using.

 

[Reiver]

I’m quite interested in the Cheaney Cairngorm Veldtschoen shoe but I’ve noticed there are versions available from Herring shoes and Shipton & Heneage also. The Shipton & Heneage offering being the lowest price.

Does anyone know if there is actually any difference between these 3? You would think the S&H one would be of a slightly lower standard based on pricing.

Also interested to hear any owners opinions on this shoe as well as the Pennine. I really like the look of both but I think the shoe slightly edges it for me and I have more boots than shoes also.

 

[Northants bloke]

I’m quite interested in the Cheaney Cairngorm Veldtschoen shoe but I’ve noticed there are versions available from Herring shoes and Shipton & Heneage also. The Shipton & Heneage offering being the lowest price.

Does anyone know if there is actually any difference between these 3? You would think the S&H one would be of a slightly lower standard based on pricing.

Also interested to hear any owners opinions on this shoe as well as the Pennine. I really like the look of both but I think the shoe slightly edges it for me and I have more boots than shoes also.

These are Roxburgh that I bought from Cheaney factory shop but were presumably intended for Hoggs. They are great chunky shoes. Possibly a little clumsy - I've twist my ankle in them a couple of times as they don't provide the support of boots. Darker than my Pennine boots which are redder and also a slightly different last.

 

[Reiver]

These are Roxburgh that I bought from Cheaney factory shop but were presumably intended for Hoggs. They are great chunky shoes. Possibly a little clumsy - I've twist my ankle in them a couple of times as they don't provide the support of boots. Darker than my Pennine boots which are redder and also a slightly different last.

View attachment 1144251

They look very like my Rannoch's in a shoe version. Mine don't have a leather heel stack though.

I like the look of the grain leather used on the Cairngorm and Pennine, especially the burnishing on the toe. Would you say the Hoggs leather is more durable?

I was considering the AS Kelso or Coldstream but after looking at pictures I find the Cheaney options quite appealing.

 

[Northants bloke]

Sadly it is not easy to get a good look at AS shoes. No factory outlet.

 

[Reiver]

Sadly it is not easy to get a good look at AS shoes. No factory outlet.

I think the only seller of the AS Veldtschoen line is Tredders. I think they’re in Northampton. Are you from Northampton?

 

[Meyboom]

Sadly it is not easy to get a good look at AS shoes. No factory outlet.

Alfred Sargent is a great shoemaker but from a commercial point of view they are stuck in the 20th century. Mind you, I find this 'charming' in a certain way Its quite funny that an English brand is sold in London through a French (!) retailer (Bowen). But this is the only place to check them out in real life (they have several shops in France as well). Unless you want to travel to Tokyo where AS is sold by quite a few department stores!

 

[Cade]

These Pennines have only been with me for about 7 months.
I live in the tropics which means I do get caught in the rain a lot and these babys are awesome! That Veldtschoen welt sure lived up to it's reputation.
Add some cushion insoles and long walks are a dream.
It's gone through hikes with mud, sandy terrain and the occasional accidental step on in crowded areas.
Even a spot of football.
All I do after is clean with a damp cloth and some solid brushing.
This picture was taken today after a little TLC with saphir cream.
Unfortunately, I only had a dark brown color but it still works out thankfully.
I mean, look at it! Damn thing still looks new!
Lots of wiggle room for your toes even if you have wide feet like me.
Best of all, you can dress it up or down with minimal effort.
The only gripe I have are the laces. The holes are smaller then I would have liked it.
I've had to use thinner shoelaces and settled with this pattern of lacing.

Overall, a good investment if you're looking for a shoe of this type.

 

[Luigi_M]

Cross post from WAYWRN

Cheaney Alfred, last 125, width G.
Comfortable as slippers.
Cheers! Luigi

 

[Reiver]

These Pennines have only been with me for about 7 months.
I live in the tropics which means I do get caught in the rain a lot and these babys are awesome! That Veldtschoen welt sure lived up to it's reputation.
Add some cushion insoles and long walks are a dream.
It's gone through hikes with mud, sandy terrain and the occasional accidental step on in crowded areas.
Even a spot of football.
All I do after is clean with a damp cloth and some solid brushing.
This picture was taken today after a little TLC with saphir cream.
Unfortunately, I only had a dark brown color but it still works out thankfully.
I mean, look at it! Damn thing still looks new!
Lots of wiggle room for your toes even if you have wide feet like me.
Best of all, you can dress it up or down with minimal effort.
The only gripe I have are the laces. The holes are smaller then I would have liked it.
I've had to use thinner shoelaces and settled with this pattern of lacing.

Overall, a good investment if you're looking for a shoe of this type.

View attachment 1144469

Thanks for that review. You have certainly convinced me they are a good choice!

They look great in that photo, the colour is amazing. I think your choice of cream was a good one.

 

[Reiver]

Alfred Sargent is a great shoemaker but from a commercial point of view they are stuck in the 20th century. Mind you, I find this 'charming' in a certain way Its quite funny that an English brand is sold in London through a French (!) retailer (Bowen). But this is the only place to check them out in real life (they have several shops in France as well). Unless you want to travel to Tokyo where AS is sold by quite a few department stores!

I agree, their website is terrible and they have very little presence compared with other similar makers.

Their shoes seem to be of a good, competitive standard though it just seems as if they don’t make the same effort to promote themselves which seems odd.

 

[Northants bloke]

I think the only seller of the AS Veldtschoen line is Tredders. I think they’re in Northampton. Are you from Northampton?

The wider county Northamptonshire (abbreviated Northants).

I've been to Tredders once. They are just outside of Northampton at Castle Ashby in gift shop territory. There weren't many AS on display but can ask them to bring items from the warehouse ain advance if you are specific. I live much nearer to the AS factory but nothing to see there.

Although Cheaney factory shop doesn't sell the catalogue there is still an impressive selection of special orders, spares and seconds. Most of my shoes are from there. I actually bought my Pennines and King boots from Cheaney on carefully contrived trips out that happened to pass Cheaney stores in Leeds and Cambridge.

Cheaney is actually in Desborough 20 miles north of Northampton. Factory shops actually in Northampton include Church, C&J (short hours), Lobb (high security and still outside my budget) and Trickers. Barkers (not to my taste) is at Earls Barton about 7 miles east. NPS/Solovair (worth a visit) and Doc Martens are both in Wollaston around 15 miles east. I don't think the others have factory shops, possibly Edward Green. https://www.northamptonshoes.com is a pretty good guide.