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Cheaney

SumDude

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I know this may be a silly question to ask in the Cheaney thread but how is their current build quality? I am based in the US and have just started upping my shoe/boot game. I have started with Allen Edmunds but want to start expanding by trying some other brands. I have found a couple boot styles I really like. The Moray C (Tweed C with different lacing system) and the Coniston (Herring relabel? - 12508 last) have caught my eye.

There are other brands like Trickers I am also interested in but will research in their threads or the general "Boots Boots Boots - For Boot Guys Only" thread.

Thanks for any insight/comments.
 

Boggis

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I've 5 pairs of Cheaney's all purchased in the past 3 years or so. Not had a significant QA issue with any of them. 2 pairs are dress shoes and haven't seen lot of action.
The others though are a country style derby shoe and 2 pairs of boots, all of which have received plenty of wear. Build quality wise they're still great, no issues at all for me and none are near needing a resoling (all rubber soled).
The Ingleborough hiking boot I have looks very worn but that's largely due to it being Chromeexcel which, while it pretty much lasts for ever, is very prone to surface blemishes and I've taken these boots on a lot of hikes through nettles & brambles etc.
Anyway, short version is I've been very happy with all the pairs I've acquired over the last 3 years. Given they retail for 10-20% lower than the other mid range Northhampton brands I think they're good value and they can regularly be had a lot cheaper as they frequently run sales throughout the year.
 

Isiah Tongue

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I know this may be a silly question to ask in the Cheaney thread but how is their current build quality? I am based in the US and have just started upping my shoe/boot game. I have started with Allen Edmunds but want to start expanding by trying some other brands. I have found a couple boot styles I really like. The Moray C (Tweed C with different lacing system) and the Coniston (Herring relabel? - 12508 last) have caught my eye.

There are other brands like Trickers I am also interested in but will research in their threads or the general "Boots Boots Boots - For Boot Guys Only" thread.

Thanks for any insight/comments.

I would say that in terms of boots, Trickers are better made in terms of construction and leather quality. The uppers are thicker than on Cheaney and the boot feels more substantial. Cheaney have more attractive lasts than Trickers, which all look very blobby!

For dress shoes I would say Cheaney are very good. They use a thinner/finer leather IME that breaks in very easily and moulds very well to your foot. The only thing I've found is that their leather soles do tend to wear down quickly in comparison to my Church's and Loakes. Admittedly, I do walk 10-12k steps a day.

Occasionally, the uppers do display loose grain creasing after wear, so check the leather with a good squeeze in the shop.
 
Last edited:

Reiver

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I've 5 pairs of Cheaney's all purchased in the past 3 years or so. Not had a significant QA issue with any of them. 2 pairs are dress shoes and haven't seen lot of action.
The others though are a country style derby shoe and 2 pairs of boots, all of which have received plenty of wear. Build quality wise they're still great, no issues at all for me and none are near needing a resoling (all rubber soled).
The Ingleborough hiking boot I have looks very worn but that's largely due to it being Chromeexcel which, while it pretty much lasts for ever, is very prone to surface blemishes and I've taken these boots on a lot of hikes through nettles & brambles etc.
Anyway, short version is I've been very happy with all the pairs I've acquired over the last 3 years. Given they retail for 10-20% lower than the other mid range Northhampton brands I think they're good value and they can regularly be had a lot cheaper as they frequently run sales throughout the year.

Would be interested to see those ingleborough boots
 

SumDude

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I would say that in terms of boots, Trickers are better made in terms of construction and leather quality. The uppers are thicker than on Cheaney and the boot feels more substantial. Cheaney have more attractive lasts than Trickers, which all look very blobby!

For dress shoes I would say Cheaney are very good. They use a thinner/finer leather IME that breaks in very easily and moulds very well to your foot. The only thing I've found is that their leather soles do tend to wear down quickly in comparison to my Church's and Loakes. Admittedly, I do walk 10-12k steps a day.

Occasionally, the uppers do display loose grain creasing after wear, so check the leather with a good squeeze in the shop.

Isiah,

Thanks for the very detailed response. Based on your information it would probably be a safe comparison to Allen Edmonds construction materials compared to higher end shoes/boots. Unfortunately being in the US I cannot do a squeeze test before purchasing.
 

usctrojans31

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Where in the States are you? Cheaney has a few retail outlets.

I have several pairs of AE and some Cheaney. The Cheaney is higher in quality leather and lining. One thing to note is that I find Cheaney universally has a pretty high instep, which just doesn't work for me. Hopefully it does for you.

I agree with Isiah Tongue about the sole wear. I beat the crap out of my Carmina and Carlos Santos and they're still going strong. I did the same to my Cheaney, and they definitely wore through much faster under near identical conditions.
 

SumDude

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usctrojans31,

Thanks for the Cheaney/AE comparison. I am located in Florida so I doubt there is an outlet or retail option near me. As for instep/arch, I have a pretty flat arch and narrow foot. Last measured on a Brannok device I was a 9 B. I usually wear a 8D in AE's 65 last and boots. I wear it seems a 8.5D on just about every other manufacturer. ?‍♂️
 

kasza

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I tried the Cheaney shoe trees (size 9) in my Alfreds (also size 9) and they were not such a good fit - a bit too short and too wide. I don't feel they are worth £60 especially as they have the standard flat soles and you can feel the edge through the leather at the side. Unfortunately, according to Cathcart Elliott, their 'lasted' shoe trees are not being produced anymore - size 9 is out of stock. I'll try their standard trees.
 

Tim Apple

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I tried the Cheaney shoe trees (size 9) in my Alfreds (also size 9) and they were not such a good fit - a bit too short and too wide. I don't feel they are worth £60 especially as they have the standard flat soles and you can feel the edge through the leather at the side. Unfortunately, according to Cathcart Elliott, their 'lasted' shoe trees are not being produced anymore - size 9 is out of stock. I'll try their standard trees.

Cheaney recommends that the tree size be one size smaller than the shoe.

I easily think that their trees are worth it, even though they are very expensive. My boots are in amazing condition and have zero odor of any kind. An automatic purchase every time I buy from Cheaney.
 

kasza

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I emailed Cheaney with details before purchasing. They replied but did not say anything about choosing a size smaller.
 

Mercurio

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All my boots and shoes, no matter the brand, have their shoe trees. I have bought just a couple of times "branded" ones and I feel is no worth paying the extra expense just to have the manufacturer name on a metal plate, as they are quite similar to any other.

Most of my shoe trees are "Cedrus", a french brand that it's easily available where I live for a reasonable price: they keep my shoes and boots fresh and in good shape without having to pay £60 for each pair.

61ER3H2ByVL._AC_UL1500_.jpg

3693887655120036912.7d2fbbd8b1eb46ff84b278424a299502.Image_.jpg

On the other hand, in order to have really lasted shoe trees, it would mean that they would have to be made with the exact last of each pair of shoes: Cheaney uses 20 different last models to build their men shoes and boots in 13 sizes: that would mean a very expensive inventory to have them all: i.e. shoe tree for last 12508 for size 7.5 UK, shoe tree for last 125 for size 8 UK, and so on.
 

Boggis

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Would be interested to see those ingleborough boots

As requested!
20210425_135047.jpg

They've been worse, I think I gave them a clean and a treatment with some saphir "greasy leather" creme about 2 months ago, so they're looking better now than they were then.

Aside from the surface scratches they're still in great nick.
 

Reiver

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As requested!
View attachment 1599684
They've been worse, I think I gave them a clean and a treatment with some saphir "greasy leather" creme about 2 months ago, so they're looking better now than they were then.

Aside from the surface scratches they're still in great nick.

it suits them to look well worn as they are an outdoors type boot. Gave my C&J Snowdon’s a hard wearing today.

5330C0DB-DB43-48E4-AC7F-BF420F1E0EA3.jpeg
M

Sorry for the non Cheaney content! I’m sure these will scrub up nicely and look almost like new again. They usually seem to shrug off most abuse!
 

TheChihuahua

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I know this may be a silly question to ask in the Cheaney thread but how is their current build quality? I am based in the US and have just started upping my shoe/boot game. I have started with Allen Edmunds but want to start expanding by trying some other brands. I have found a couple boot styles I really like. The Moray C (Tweed C with different lacing system) and the Coniston (Herring relabel? - 12508 last) have caught my eye.

There are other brands like Trickers I am also interested in but will research in their threads or the general "Boots Boots Boots - For Boot Guys Only" thread.

Thanks for any insight/comments.

I have a bunch of Allen Edmonds and a bunch of Cheaney. All Oxford/leather sole dress shoes. I also have other brands (carmina, tlb, Alden, etc..)

I personally like Allen Edmonds a lot, they make a well constructed shoe, the materials they use are good, then stand by their product.

I like my Cheaney’s better. They are similarly well constructed, but tend to have a better stylistic/aesthetic appeal to me and for my use.
The cheaneys are more of that Northampton style, which has more elegance without going fully fashion forward such as the Southern European options. The American shoes such as the Alden and Allen Edmonds have a different style to them.

in terms of construction, again, I do think highly of Allen Edmonds so when I say Cheaney is comparable that is meant as a compliment.
In terms of style I think Cheaney has a different type of offering that might be preferred by some.
 

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