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Cheaney

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rabiesinfrance, Mar 26, 2011.

  1. FlyingHorker

    FlyingHorker Senior Member

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    Why do grained shoes have smooth leather on the toes? Is it because of the lasting or whatever?

    Always thought it should be the opposite, more grain towards the outside of the shoe and especially the toe, smoother calf towards the inside.
     

  2. RKILLY67

    RKILLY67 Active Member

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    Not an expert but I take it is to do with the lasting process when they shape the shoe, it gets more stretched over that area, not sure if that's intentional but I like it as you can bring up a nice shine on the toe
     

  3. Schweino

    Schweino Senior Member

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  4. smc558

    smc558 Well-Known Member

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    Just picked up a pair of Cheaney Arthur III brogues in dark leaf for £250, which is £100 cheaper than retail. Bargain! Especially as I had just bought a pair at full retail which I was able to return.

    Country Attire have a sale on, the code EXTRA10 (or 10EXTRA - can't remember now) gets you an extra 10% off. Common sizes available (8,9,10) but no half sizes. I have no affiliation to the vendor, just thought I'd share.

    Will post pics when they arrive.
     

  5. David27

    David27 New Member

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  6. ShooIn

    ShooIn Senior Member

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    I don't have any personal experience of the 130 last, but can certainly vouch for the quality of Cheaney shoes, and at that price is certainly worth trying. I have 2 black Oxfords from Cheaney in my regular rotation, I enjoy wearing them.
     

  7. smc558

    smc558 Well-Known Member

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    My Cheaney Arthur III brogues arrived today.
    Great buy at the price, I’m a big fan of the dark leaf burnishing.

    3018D6F5-F6C2-4D7C-8107-64C6F6371F03.jpeg D8CCB485-8169-4383-BC02-52F38EE550CE.jpeg 4460A578-DBE8-4D0E-98CC-C931F3603CA2.jpeg
     

  8. thatshoeotaku

    thatshoeotaku Active Member

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    AFAIK the coloured sticker indicates the person doing the QC check. This helps factories ensure better consistency in their QC across different persons as they can measure and identify who inspected the shoe when a claim is made. I could be wrong.

    I don't think that the imperfections you mentioned are serious enough for them to be classified 2nd, not perfect but still 1st IMO
     

  9. Kochegar

    Kochegar Well-Known Member

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  10. Nat Jag

    Nat Jag Senior Member

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    I'd go for the hythe. I just prefer that type of brogue.
     

  11. RKILLY67

    RKILLY67 Active Member

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    I personally prefer the look of the hythe, but think either is nice. Don't own enough cheaneys to give u advice about the lasts but like the grain leather they do.
     

  12. RelativeAlbatross

    RelativeAlbatross New Member

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    Hi all,

    After much deliberation I decided to take the plunge with English made shoes, after being used to poor quality imitations. After a bit of research and looking around Jermyn Sreet I decided on Cheaney's and first bought a pair of the Lime's with Dainite sole, in a size UK 10. I'm quite impressed with them - they fit well across the ball of my feet, aren't tight in the toe box, have minimal heel slippage and don't impinge on my instep. I tried the 9.5's and I felt they were overly cramped in the toe box region, and couldn't imagine myself being comfortable wearing them all day (I'm buying these shoes for my new job in the city.)

    lime 1.png

    The only issue thus far is a little creasing on the side, as seen in the following photo:
    lime 2.png

    However after looking at this forum it seems another gentleman had this issue with the Lime's:

    Now my creasing is not as pronounced as the above, and I feel this may be to do with the construction. Advice I have received is that there is perhaps too much material in this area and maybe I should size down - but as mentioned previously, the 9.5's are too tight for my liking. As this is my first purchase of a quality shoe I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and see how they work out, plus I really like the sleek look of them.

    Next I decided to get another pair to rotate with these and decided to go for the Fenchurch with Dainite sole. These are supposedly on the same 11028 last and I thought they would fit like the Lime's. See below:

    fenchurch 1.png
    fenchurch 2.png

    These fit well from the ball to the toes, but around my ankle they are loose, and there is a greater space at the heel between my foot and the shoe. It feels as if the foot hole of the shoe is too big. When I tie them up, I need to tighten them such that there is no V on the vamp, which I've heard means they aren't a good fit. They are a little easier to get on and off than the Lime, and there is some heel slippage which I can only envision will get worse if I kept them. This prompted me to look at this forum for any insight, and lo and behold:

    I too am quizzical about how two shoes built on the same last on the same range can differ in size by this much. Of course if handmade there is a tolerance of fit, but this seems excessive. Can the brogueing on the leather be the reason for a larger fit? I fear if I keep them the foot hole will become misshapen. It's worth mentioning that the Lime's came fresh from the factory, whereas I bought the Fenchurch straight from the store.

    I tried on the 9.5's in the shop, and whilst there was less heel slippage, my bigger right foot's toe was touching the front of the shoe, and there was pinching on my instep when I laced them up. I am now in a quandary as to what to do. I am happy to keep the Lime's, but will definitely be exchanging/refunding these Fenchurches - as I don't feel the 9.5's in the Fenchurch will be suitable. It's worth mentioning I tried a 9.5 in a Loakes Aldwych down the street and this was a good fit - however I can't bring myself to buy two pairs of the same style of oxford.

    I am particularly enamoured with the wholecut Berkeley https://www.cheaney.co.uk/mens-c48/cheaney-berkeley-whole-cut-oxford-in-black-calf-leather-p1 , which is in a 205 last which I haven't tried. I have read somewhere that having 6 eyelets will mean the shoe will have less slippage as well meaning that fit might be improved, however the lack of a Dainite sole option makes this a no go for me - I'd be rotating them daily with the Lime's, my commute involves a walk to and from the tube station each day, and I would hate to ruin them in the rain. Does Cheaney offer a service to put on a Dainite sole, and would this be worth it?

    Any ideas on what to look at for my second pair? I'd really love a beautiful wholecut like above with a Dainite sole but I can't seem to find anything - my price ceiling is 400. Other than that a half/quarter brogue style is what I'm after. I recall trying the Harrington which is is the 6184 last, but the shop assistant and I agreed that it just didn't suit my foot shape.

    Thanks for any insight, and apologies for the knackered socks and carpet!
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2018

  13. Northants bloke

    Northants bloke Senior Member

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    Welcome RelativeAlbatross, I'm a Cheaney fan and I wear Cheaney most days. I also fit between 2 sizes even on the same last but I try not to overthink it. Buy whatever feels comfortable. I also have several pairs of 205 and a couple of 11028, 125 and 225 and at least one 130. I haven't seen a 205 in Dainite and I haven't asked but I would imagine they can if asked resole them in Dainite when you eventually need them refurbished.
     

  14. Nat Jag

    Nat Jag Senior Member

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    I love the look of those fenchurch, but clearly they don't fit correctly or comfortably, so exchange them.
    I've just checked my few pairs of cheaney's to look at the creasing, which none have. I don't have those lasts though. You could consider the diamond rubber sole they do. My first cheaney's were leather soles, they didn't have the style with a rubber sole. I will change it. Every time I wear them, I remind myself why I should stick to rubber soles (dainite or other). So I suggest you stick to rubber soles.

    I would also consider sending back the limes. I agree it's weird they both fit different. I have brought shoes online, but cost me enough to return those I wasn't happy with. I will stick to trying in the shop first. What does concern me, is if their last are slightly different, when you send them back to be re-soled, the fit could be different. However, looking closely at the shoe images on the website, it does appear the heal of the fenchurch is lower than the lime. This would be a styling issue rather than last issue.
     

  15. RelativeAlbatross

    RelativeAlbatross New Member

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    How does the 205 compare to the 11028? Also generally, how much do these types of shoe stretch with wear if at all? Did you buy them snug and they loosened up a little?

    I really do feel getting the Berkeley in leather soles (should they fit right) would be wasteful as £110 to resole them in rubber in what, 6 months down the line of wear every other day is a lot. Another thing that makes me hesitant is that I used to get M&S £65 leather soled shoes and wore through the soles incredibly quickly. Of course I'm assuming this quality of leather is much better, but compared to rubber I just don't think it's worth it.

    They do look quite good don't they, it's just a shame about the sizing issue. How would heel height affect the slippage? Also how does the diamond soles compared to dainite?
     

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