• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Cheaney

FlyingHorker

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
1,197
Reaction score
1,009
Why do grained shoes have smooth leather on the toes? Is it because of the lasting or whatever?

Always thought it should be the opposite, more grain towards the outside of the shoe and especially the toe, smoother calf towards the inside.
 

RKILLY67

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
51
Reaction score
110
Why do grained shoes have smooth leather on the toes? Is it because of the lasting or whatever?

Always thought it should be the opposite, more grain towards the outside of the shoe and especially the toe, smoother calf towards the inside.
Not an expert but I take it is to do with the lasting process when they shape the shoe, it gets more stretched over that area, not sure if that's intentional but I like it as you can bring up a nice shine on the toe
 

smc558

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2016
Messages
58
Reaction score
51
Just picked up a pair of Cheaney Arthur III brogues in dark leaf for £250, which is £100 cheaper than retail. Bargain! Especially as I had just bought a pair at full retail which I was able to return.

Country Attire have a sale on, the code EXTRA10 (or 10EXTRA - can't remember now) gets you an extra 10% off. Common sizes available (8,9,10) but no half sizes. I have no affiliation to the vendor, just thought I'd share.

Will post pics when they arrive.
 

ShooIn

Senior Member
Joined
May 16, 2016
Messages
162
Reaction score
297

thatshoeotaku

Active Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2018
Messages
35
Reaction score
16
Bought a pair of Cheaneys recently that have a blue dot on the inside of the tongue:

View attachment 1001224

Have also noticed that the leather doesn't sit quite right at the bottom of the vamp:

View attachment 1001225

That patch of leather remains raised, even when laced up tightly. These were bought online (from a reputable shop) however not sure if the blue dot and imperfection (in my eyes at least) indicates that these are perhaps a seconds/sample?

Appreciate any input or advice. :)
AFAIK the coloured sticker indicates the person doing the QC check. This helps factories ensure better consistency in their QC across different persons as they can measure and identify who inspected the shoe when a claim is made. I could be wrong.

I don't think that the imperfections you mentioned are serious enough for them to be classified 2nd, not perfect but still 1st IMO
 

RKILLY67

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
51
Reaction score
110
I am thinking about to buy some Cheaneys.
Cheaney Hythe, Mahogany grain,175 last, 290 GBP ex VAT
https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/cheaney/hythe_rubber-soled-brogues/mahogany-grain
OR
Herring Grassmere 2 (by Cheaney), Mahogany grain, 125 last, 270 GBP ex VAT
https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/herring/grassmere-ii_rubber-soled-brogues/mahogany-grain
What would you choose?
I personally prefer the look of the hythe, but think either is nice. Don't own enough cheaneys to give u advice about the lasts but like the grain leather they do.
 

RelativeAlbatross

New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
5
Hi all,

After much deliberation I decided to take the plunge with English made shoes, after being used to poor quality imitations. After a bit of research and looking around Jermyn Sreet I decided on Cheaney's and first bought a pair of the Lime's with Dainite sole, in a size UK 10. I'm quite impressed with them - they fit well across the ball of my feet, aren't tight in the toe box, have minimal heel slippage and don't impinge on my instep. I tried the 9.5's and I felt they were overly cramped in the toe box region, and couldn't imagine myself being comfortable wearing them all day (I'm buying these shoes for my new job in the city.)

lime 1.png

The only issue thus far is a little creasing on the side, as seen in the following photo:
lime 2.png

However after looking at this forum it seems another gentleman had this issue with the Lime's:

New purchases came in recently!

I then ordered a black pair of lime in dainite for rainy days and cause dainite last forever. and this came in the mail.



It looks like the uppers were not stitched properly to the soles cause a weird deformation around the arch area. the leather there looked stretched and stressed out of the box.You can even see the stitch work attaching the uppers to the soles. Glue work is also messy =/ I have my reservations on the structural integrity of these once they hit the streets. time to cop that return shipping fee.
Now my creasing is not as pronounced as the above, and I feel this may be to do with the construction. Advice I have received is that there is perhaps too much material in this area and maybe I should size down - but as mentioned previously, the 9.5's are too tight for my liking. As this is my first purchase of a quality shoe I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and see how they work out, plus I really like the sleek look of them.

Next I decided to get another pair to rotate with these and decided to go for the Fenchurch with Dainite sole. These are supposedly on the same 11028 last and I thought they would fit like the Lime's. See below:

fenchurch 1.png
fenchurch 2.png

These fit well from the ball to the toes, but around my ankle they are loose, and there is a greater space at the heel between my foot and the shoe. It feels as if the foot hole of the shoe is too big. When I tie them up, I need to tighten them such that there is no V on the vamp, which I've heard means they aren't a good fit. They are a little easier to get on and off than the Lime, and there is some heel slippage which I can only envision will get worse if I kept them. This prompted me to look at this forum for any insight, and lo and behold:

So I recently went a little crazy with Cheaney shoes because they're much better than the lower tier shoes like Loake and Barker but not exactly unaffordable. I got 3 pairs on the 11028 last and they all seem to fit differently?!

the Lime (cap toe oxford) is a little too tight
the Fenchurch (semi brogue oxford) feels comfortable with a wee bit space in the instep
the Threadneedle (chelsea boots) fits great with a bit of heel slip

I get the chelsea is a different design and hence will fit differently but the lime and fenchurch on identical lasts in the same size was surprising. Anyone else experienced same last, same shape, stark difference in fit?
I too am quizzical about how two shoes built on the same last on the same range can differ in size by this much. Of course if handmade there is a tolerance of fit, but this seems excessive. Can the brogueing on the leather be the reason for a larger fit? I fear if I keep them the foot hole will become misshapen. It's worth mentioning that the Lime's came fresh from the factory, whereas I bought the Fenchurch straight from the store.

I tried on the 9.5's in the shop, and whilst there was less heel slippage, my bigger right foot's toe was touching the front of the shoe, and there was pinching on my instep when I laced them up. I am now in a quandary as to what to do. I am happy to keep the Lime's, but will definitely be exchanging/refunding these Fenchurches - as I don't feel the 9.5's in the Fenchurch will be suitable. It's worth mentioning I tried a 9.5 in a Loakes Aldwych down the street and this was a good fit - however I can't bring myself to buy two pairs of the same style of oxford.

I am particularly enamoured with the wholecut Berkeley https://www.cheaney.co.uk/mens-c48/cheaney-berkeley-whole-cut-oxford-in-black-calf-leather-p1 , which is in a 205 last which I haven't tried. I have read somewhere that having 6 eyelets will mean the shoe will have less slippage as well meaning that fit might be improved, however the lack of a Dainite sole option makes this a no go for me - I'd be rotating them daily with the Lime's, my commute involves a walk to and from the tube station each day, and I would hate to ruin them in the rain. Does Cheaney offer a service to put on a Dainite sole, and would this be worth it?

Any ideas on what to look at for my second pair? I'd really love a beautiful wholecut like above with a Dainite sole but I can't seem to find anything - my price ceiling is 400. Other than that a half/quarter brogue style is what I'm after. I recall trying the Harrington which is is the 6184 last, but the shop assistant and I agreed that it just didn't suit my foot shape.

Thanks for any insight, and apologies for the knackered socks and carpet!
 
Last edited:

Northants bloke

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
223
Reaction score
333
Welcome RelativeAlbatross, I'm a Cheaney fan and I wear Cheaney most days. I also fit between 2 sizes even on the same last but I try not to overthink it. Buy whatever feels comfortable. I also have several pairs of 205 and a couple of 11028, 125 and 225 and at least one 130. I haven't seen a 205 in Dainite and I haven't asked but I would imagine they can if asked resole them in Dainite when you eventually need them refurbished.
 

Nat Jag

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
207
Reaction score
259
Hi all,
cheaney . . .
!
I love the look of those fenchurch, but clearly they don't fit correctly or comfortably, so exchange them.
I've just checked my few pairs of cheaney's to look at the creasing, which none have. I don't have those lasts though. You could consider the diamond rubber sole they do. My first cheaney's were leather soles, they didn't have the style with a rubber sole. I will change it. Every time I wear them, I remind myself why I should stick to rubber soles (dainite or other). So I suggest you stick to rubber soles.

I would also consider sending back the limes. I agree it's weird they both fit different. I have brought shoes online, but cost me enough to return those I wasn't happy with. I will stick to trying in the shop first. What does concern me, is if their last are slightly different, when you send them back to be re-soled, the fit could be different. However, looking closely at the shoe images on the website, it does appear the heal of the fenchurch is lower than the lime. This would be a styling issue rather than last issue.
 

RelativeAlbatross

New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
5
Welcome RelativeAlbatross, I'm a Cheaney fan and I wear Cheaney most days. I also fit between 2 sizes even on the same last but I try not to overthink it. Buy whatever feels comfortable. I also have several pairs of 205 and a couple of 11028, 125 and 225 and at least one 130. I haven't seen a 205 in Dainite and I haven't asked but I would imagine they can if asked resole them in Dainite when you eventually need them refurbished.
How does the 205 compare to the 11028? Also generally, how much do these types of shoe stretch with wear if at all? Did you buy them snug and they loosened up a little?

I really do feel getting the Berkeley in leather soles (should they fit right) would be wasteful as £110 to resole them in rubber in what, 6 months down the line of wear every other day is a lot. Another thing that makes me hesitant is that I used to get M&S £65 leather soled shoes and wore through the soles incredibly quickly. Of course I'm assuming this quality of leather is much better, but compared to rubber I just don't think it's worth it.

I love the look of those fenchurch, but clearly they don't fit correctly or comfortably, so exchange them.
I've just checked my few pairs of cheaney's to look at the creasing, which none have. I don't have those lasts though. You could consider the diamond rubber sole they do. My first cheaney's were leather soles, they didn't have the style with a rubber sole. I will change it. Every time I wear them, I remind myself why I should stick to rubber soles (dainite or other). So I suggest you stick to rubber soles.

I would also consider sending back the limes. I agree it's weird they both fit different. I have brought shoes online, but cost me enough to return those I wasn't happy with. I will stick to trying in the shop first. What does concern me, is if their last are slightly different, when you send them back to be re-soled, the fit could be different. However, looking closely at the shoe images on the website, it does appear the heal of the fenchurch is lower than the lime. This would be a styling issue rather than last issue.
They do look quite good don't they, it's just a shame about the sizing issue. How would heel height affect the slippage? Also how does the diamond soles compared to dainite?
 

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite pair of shoes to wear with jeans? (Choose two)

  • Boots (Chelsea, Chukkas, Balmorals, etc.)

  • Loafers

  • Work boots (Red Wing, Wolverine, etc.)

  • Monk strap shoes

  • Oxford / Derby shoes

  • Sneakers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
425,950
Messages
9,160,005
Members
192,404
Latest member
sarrykorley

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top