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Cheaney

Redwoood

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
I don't know if I agree with this. With natural products the source of the material does affect quality.

Agreed. At the same time, though, it may be very difficult for somebody outside the industry to make sweeping quality assessments based on country of origin.
Complaining about the leather sourced from India is a bit like saying
"I don't buy Twinings tea anymore ever since I found out they source their tea from India. I thought I was buying English tea!"

BTW, it's rather surprising how large the Indian leather industry is, seeing how Hindus are the most populous and influential segment of the population and cows are supposedly sacred to them.
 

Trifon

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
I don't know if I agree with this. With natural products the source of the material does affect quality.

So you mean the skin/leather of an Indian cow is poorer quality than the leather of a French or an English cow? Could be so, of course, but I would like to know the arguments.
 

onix

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Originally Posted by Trifon
So you mean the skin/leather of an Indian cow is poorer quality than the leather of a French or an English cow? Could be so, of course, but I would like to know the arguments.
Animal growing in different environments with different treatments, etc., develop different characteristics. And some are more desirable than others. For example: Scottish cashmere vs Chinese cashmere, freshwater pearls vs Tahitian pearls,... or closer to home: free-range chicken vs stuff-feeding/commercial chicken....
 

upnorth

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More hardship and poorer environment, more scars and veins, thinner skins.
 

Axel Ferguson

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I thought it was more meant in the way of cutting corners during the leather production or lax quality control.
 

Northampton Novice

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Are you sure about this? I had a conversation with Nathan over bourbon about six months ago and they were still using AS. He said it took a while to get the product that he was going for, but they are turning it out amazing now.

Yes I'm sure Patrick, like the bourbon your conversation has aged!

Not sure exactly when you had your conversation with Nathan but 6 months would make it late October 2010 - exactly when Lodger was bought by Tony Lutwyche.

Under Tony, the name has actually changed to Lutyche & Lodger, the Italian made collection has been discontinued and AS were not contracted to make shoes for S/S 2011 or going forward.

Surprised Nathan didn't mention any of this to you.
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by Northampton Novice
Yes I'm sure Patrick, like the bourbon your conversation has aged!

Not sure exactly when you had your conversation with Nathan but 6 months would make it late October 2010 - exactly when Lodger was bought by Tony Lutwyche.

Under Tony, the name has actually changed to Lutyche & Lodger, the Italian made collection has been discontinued and AS were not contracted to make shoes for S/S 2011 or going forward.

Surprised Nathan didn't mention any of this to you.


Wow, this conversation was probably the beginning of November actually. A lot can happen apparently.
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by onix
Animal growing in different environments with different treatments, etc., develop different characteristics. And some are more desirable than others. For example: Scottish cashmere vs Chinese cashmere, freshwater pearls vs Tahitian pearls,... or closer to home: free-range chicken vs stuff-feeding/commercial chicken....

Originally Posted by upnorth
More hardship and poorer environment, more scars and veins, thinner skins.

Exactly. Same reason why different wines taste different from different regions.
 

Northampton Novice

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Originally Posted by Redwoood
Agreed. At the same time, though, it may be very difficult for somebody outside the industry to make sweeping quality assessments based on country of origin.
Complaining about the leather sourced from India is a bit like saying
"I don't buy Twinings tea anymore ever since I found out they source their tea from India. I thought I was buying English tea!"

BTW, it's rather surprising how large the Indian leather industry is, seeing how Hindus are the most populous and influential segment of the population and cows are supposedly sacred to them.


+1

The full supply chain of leather really needs to be considered in such a situation. Some of the best tanneries in Italy and France will import skins from India, Pakistan and Morocco to meet demand.
 

AMZ

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Some friends and I had a factory tour at Cheaney last week and, having read some of the comments on this thread, I wanted to share my findings with you.

We were shown around by Mr William Church and personally speaking I was really impressed with what I saw. William is a true English gent and very passionate about British footwear and his brand.

They have about 120 people working for them and some are the third and fourth generation at Cheaney. I was brave enough to ask if they import any of the uppers as some other "English" makers (Loake, Barker et al), this was vehemently denied.

They have a large "clicking" area where the skins are cut into uppers. Most of this was done by hand using a traditional knife that looked so ancient I bet modern Health and Safety would freak! All legal I was reassured.

The uppers were sewn together by a team of 35 women mostly. I never realised there were so many types of sewing machines available and watching the skill of the ladies working was mind blowing!

I took quite number of photographs so if you guys are interested I'll post them when I get more time...
 

Quadcammer

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please do post. I'd certainly like to see the process and factory of a supposedly lower mid level manufacturer.

I'm very happy with my cheaneys so far.
 

Douglas

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Bumping this thread for sizing advice on Cheaney. I have my eye on a pair of boots (last 12508) and it seems I should go a full size down from US (e.g. 9.5UK for someone who is normally a 10.5US) instead of just a half-size as I would for many others. Is it true that Cheaney run slightly to the large side of things?
 

Cary Grant

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Originally Posted by Douglas
Bumping this thread for sizing advice on Cheaney. I have my eye on a pair of boots (last 12508) and it seems I should go a full size down from US (e.g. 9.5UK for someone who is normally a 10.5US) instead of just a half-size as I would for many others. Is it true that Cheaney run slightly to the large side of things?

FWIW my tailor's shop has one pair of Cheaney, a wholecut. They don't usually sell them but a rep sent them the pair (nice shoe by the way). This one does indeed run one full size large.
 

Douglas

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thanks CG, that is actually quite helpful.
 

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