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Cheaney

Humpty_Dumpty_Rises

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Cheaney Autumn/Winter collection released.
Lot of emphasis on last 12508 as most new models seem to be on this last. If you have slightly wider feet or a high instep then 12508 is a source of pain.
 

shoefan57

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Cheaney Autumn/Winter collection released.
Lot of emphasis on last 12508 as most new models seem to be on this last. If you have slightly wider feet or a high instep then 12508 is a source of pain.
That's helpful to know, which Cheaney last do you find best for wider feet and a higher than average instep?
 

davejones22

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Just ordered the Dallington R chukka in the hope this can replace my C&J Molton. Will report back after arrival.


Bit more expensive than I'd like and a little too close to C&J now in terms of Cheaney's pricing, although 10% off does help somewhat.

FWIW I've got narrow heels, a wide-ish but low volume foot with a low instep overall (but high-ish arch). My foot is quite banana shaped with splayed toes. Finding a good fit in well made shoes is extremely challenging as a consequence.

I've two pairs of Jackie on 125 that fit really nicely, albeit with a little bit too much room over the instep than ideal. Very comfortable in size 10 for me overall though, even worn all day.

I always have the same problem with non-handgrade C&J - My Moltons on C&J 336 have too much volume above the mid and forefoot but still impede on my big toes. Going up a half size rectifies the toes somewhat but then volume is completely excessive (and they look mis-sized). Found 224 (Chiltern) / 325 (Consiton) less volume but much tighter at the big toes and 378 (Chepstow 2) similar volume but still a little tight at the front. When I get my feet measured in store they without fail try and put me in a 9.5, which is unwearable.

I've learn't a lot about the shape of my feet since starting to buy well made footwear over the last few years (cheapo stuff from the likes of Dune is soft and just gets battered into the right shape) - the last shape in the horizontal plane being crucial if you have feet like mine. Unhelpfully I also initially got caught out by nonsense salesperson comments about the toe-boxes stretching over time too (celastic toe stiffeners do not stretch to any appreciable degree as I found to my misfortune!).

I didn't have high hopes for Cheaney 125 at first glance as it looks narrow / quite tapered. It is actually considerably more assymetrical (and a hair longer) than the C&J lasts above and therefore despite being more pointed actually gives my big toe more room. Similar to the handgrade C&J where my 367 (Egerton) fits really well in a 10 because of the assymetrical, low volume last.

Interested to see how 12508 fits when they arrive. The 15216 Imperial fit really well, as did 205 when last in store, so have hopes that Cheaney generally suits my more banana shaped feet!

The Moltons are beautifully made but as well as not fitting well, I find them ridiculously heavy compared to the Jackie for some reason too. I've found C&J generally a step up from Cheaney in quality control and overall tactile quality, but my Jackies have worn really well over last few years.
 
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davejones22

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Arrived today so excellent service from Cheaney.

QC seems really good. The waxy commander is very similar to the C&J roughout. Very stiff and dark in colour to start with but can see how it will be very comfortable over time. Seems like it will soften up a bit more than the C&J roughout too.

12508 fits very well. Similar room to 125 at the big toe, a hair shorter in length. They are actually wider across the metatarsal heads, but a significantly tighter instep which makes them wear narrower & suits me very well. They feel almost identical to my 125 boots when I put a 2mm leather insole into the Jackie.

Beautiful boots and feel up there with my Moltons in terms of perceived winter hardiness!

I'm going to return these, however, as the combination of the rounded last and the rather wide (enourmous!) storm welt puts them too far over towards proper country boot than I'd like. Without the storm welt they'd be absolutely perfect for my purposes (I'd change the lace holes given the choice too). If they appear in the sale end of season in my size I'd definitely pick them up again though. With a storm welt that large I'd probably go for the 125 last to keep them a bit more city friendly.

I think the 12508 will be perfect for me in a Chelsea boot (can't usually wear Chelseas as I get too much heel slip with my low instep). I've ordered the Barnes in snuff repello & no storm welt which should be spot on and bit less country casual.
 

Pascal1980

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Hello folks,

then what is your experience with the higher end "Imperial" line of Chenea?

They have nice oxfords in burgundy and navy blue, and burgundy and navy/mahagoni balmoral boots, which Crockett and Jones does not offer.

Their Imperial Line last ought to fit my foot in UK 7 / EU 41 well as I also like to wear the Crockett & Jones lasts 348 and 373 in UK 7 for my slim foot.

I wanted to visit Chenea in the first week of September in London on the Jeremyn Street when I am there for consulting business purposes.

Best regards and enjoy your weekend

Pascal
 

davejones22

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Hello folks,

then what is your experience with the higher end "Imperial" line of Chenea?

They have nice oxfords in burgundy and navy blue, and burgundy and navy/mahagoni balmoral boots, which Crockett and Jones does not offer.

Their Imperial Line last ought to fit my foot in UK 7 / EU 41 well as I also like to wear the Crockett & Jones lasts 348 and 373 in UK 7 for my slim foot.

I wanted to visit Chenea in the first week of September in London on the Jeremyn Street when I am there for consulting business purposes.

Best regards and enjoy your weekend

Pascal

I tried on the Norman Derby shoe on 15216 on a recent visit. It seemed nicely made with better quality calf leather than the standard Cheaney line.

The last is quite asymmetric and was a closer fit around the instep than 125 (but still left enough toe room), felt very similar to the C&J handgrades in have in 367. I would have thought if 348/373 fit you this should also work very well for you.

I wasn't 100% convinced about the chisel toe as it's perhaps a little broad compared to something like C&J 348/373. Cheaney last 205 fit similarly and has an elongated, sharper chisel toe like the ones you mentioned.
 

martin92

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Hi guys,
do you think last on Elliott II R boots is too long and pointy for woman? My wife struggling with finding quality boots which she will also like because she has width E, so women C-D widths are no-go. We tried to contact C&J because they should be able to create MTO boots but they offered us only men's lasts with E width so it doesn't make sense to pay for MTO, and instead of this we can go to buy some RTW men boots.

She likes mentioned Elliott II R Capped Derby Boot on last 130 but we are afraid that last is too pointy and long, like typical man last. What do you think? It could be grate if some can provide me real photos of that boots if he owned them or recommend different men's last that isn't so long.

Thank you
 

Northants bloke

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Just in case you haven't checked Cheaney's last guide

Mrs NB wears a few pairs of Cheaney too but has tiny feet so we can't help there. I have 130 last brogues. I think it is designed to look extended while hiding a reasonably roomy fit. No way of guessing how fit her without trying. Return if they don't fit.

12508 is their main chunky boot last but looks less masculine with broguing such Tamar or Tweed.

I wonder if it is worth looking at 6184 ( Orton and Orlingbury) for a subtler shape. Closer to women's lasts.
Not a perfect illustration but on the photo Left 130, middle 6184, right 12508.
 

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martin92

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Just in case you haven't checked Cheaney's last guide

Mrs NB wears a few pairs of Cheaney too but has tiny feet so we can't help there. I have 130 last brogues. I think it is designed to look extended while hiding a reasonably roomy fit. No way of guessing how fit her without trying. Return if they don't fit.

12508 is their main chunky boot last but looks less masculine with broguing such Tamar or Tweed.

I wonder if it is worth looking at 6184 ( Orton and Orlingbury) for a subtler shape. Closer to women's lasts.
Not a perfect illustration but on the photo Left 130, middle 6184, right 12508.
Thank you for photo. To be honest I think that 12508 could work for her. When I compare boots with that last like Trafalgar, Jarrow or Jaxson to their female version on last 23234 they look almost identical to me, at least on photos.
 

davejones22

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I've had my Barnes in snuff oiled repello for a few weeks now.

12508 makes a great chelsea boot last for me - in fact the first goodyear welted chelsea boot I've ever been able to wear!

It's got a pretty low instep and wears quite narrow compared to 125. Instep fit seems to be the critical element on a chelsea boot. No noticeable heel lift at all now they have softened a bit.

Rounded toe gives plenty of toebox room even though it's a bit shorter. Interestingly the toe puff is softer than normal, not quite sure what it's made of but it's definitely softer than the very stiff celastic one on my other Cheaney and C&J boots. The suede & lining is very soft and supple and makes for a super comfy upper.

My only criticism is that the leather insole seems to be of an inferior quality to my other Cheaney boots purchased a few years ago. It's gone quite wrinkled on one foot in particular. Might be a little thinner too, but hard to tell. Can't feel the wrinkles but I wonder if there is a bit of new cost cutting going on here.
 

Northants bloke

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Cheaney Autumn/Winter collection released.
More added this week.


Objects of real style and beauty that for my money often put Cheaney's 'betters' in the shade. Particular mention of the hatched leather boots with ridgeway soles and generally more waxed leather on offer. The Bexhill brogues in mocha leather on 125 last look gorgeous in the photo and might also appeal to those that find the 12508 last uncomfortable.

I'm not buy atm as
  1. I'm still wearing in my previous purchases
  2. I'm still reimbursing my credit card provider for the genuine privilege of supporting the remaining North Northamptonshire shoe industry.
Maybe I shall have to be 'just passing' 😁 the factory shop with Mrs NB sometime closer to Chrimbo.
 
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Humpty_Dumpty_Rises

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More added this week.


Objects of real style and beauty that for my money often put Cheaney's 'betters' in the shade. Particular mention of the hatched leather boots with ridgeway soles and generally more waxed leather on offer. The Bexhill brogues in mocha leather on 125last look gorgeous in the photo and might also appeal to those that find the 12508 last uncomfortable.

I'm not buy atm as
  1. I'm still wearing in my previous purchases
  2. I'm still reimbursing my credit card provider for the genuine privilege of supporting the remaining North Northamptonshire shoe industry.
Maybe I shall have to be 'just passing' 😁 the factory shop with Mrs NB sometime closer to Chrimbo.

Well spotted @Northants bloke . The new Bexhill in mocha calf on last 125 is an elegant brogue. Great colour to go with everything
 

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