Changing the welt on a shoe?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jsmaria, Aug 15, 2011.

  1. jsmaria

    jsmaria Member

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    Before I discovered SF, I owned a single pair of 'nice' shoes -- a pair of black Allen Edmonds Leeds.

    I look at them, and while I am now a huge fan of balmorals, I still think this black blucher has a place in my collection. The thing is the double sole combined with the split-reverse welt makes me feel like they look a bit on the clunky, stodgy side. As a result, I hardly wear them anymore.

    The soles are getting ready to throw in the towel, so I'm thinking that in order to keep these in rotation, I want to go from double-sole to single-sole AND change from a split-reverse welt, to a standard welt.

    1 - Is changing the welt a good idea in and of itself, or am I just longing for a different shoe and I should just put these out to pasture?

    2 - I know that AE's redrafting will let me switch soles, but do you think they'll change the welt? I'm going to call them, but was wondering if anyone here has done something like this, with AE or their own cobbler.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2011
  2. junior varsity

    junior varsity Senior member

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    :facepalm:
    dont make something thats not what its supposed to be...
    keep the shoes the way it is and just send it back to AE for the full recrafting
    if you want shoes with a better silhouette, get something italian or at least european
     
  3. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    ditch them, you want a different shoe
     
  4. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Get the 'Standard Package' Recraft from Allen Edmonds and have the Leeds restored to their original glory. A plain toe blucher should be in every mans wardrobe anyway. Then start shopping for a new pair of Balmorals. Depending on your preference and the frequency you would wear the Balmorals, you'll either be looking for a 'Blake Stich' or '270° Goodyear Welt' model. Both are sleeker than your current Leeds with the 360° Goodyear Welt. There is always enough room for both in your wardrobe.
    Footnote- shoes with a 270° Goodyear welted sole will take far more street pounding than a Blake stitch, imo.
     
  5. junior varsity

    junior varsity Senior member

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    i have the 270 good year and its not much slimmer looking than the 360...
    i think OP wants to have something like a ferragamo tremezza where its good year welted + italian silhouette
     
  6. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Good point, there are always exceptions. Personally I like a meaty 360° welt but have a little of everything in my wardrobe.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2011
  7. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    I re-welted an old pair of AE's at a local cobbler. It was a simple and inexpensive process... didn't affect the look of the shoe in any way that people would notice.
     
  8. junior varsity

    junior varsity Senior member

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    same... i prefer the 5 last > the 0 last anyday despite having the 0 last ...
     

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