Changing Lapel Facing

[vitaminc]

Is it possible to change the lapel facing from regular wool to silk or valvet?

 

[jefferyd]

Yes but it's a lot of work, and few people would be able to do it, mainly because of the buttonholes and the inside breast pocket. I used to do this sort of thing rather frequently because silk facings are delicate and there would be pulled threads or over-pressed and scorched satin. A real pain.

 

[Manton]

It is possible, but not so easy. You need a layer of felt to cover the pad stitching in the canvas. This is how DJs are made, which is one of the reasons for the additional expense. So the canvas has to be taken out, that layer added, then put back in, then the facings added.

 

[emmanuel]

seems like your about to get a bit creative... what are you planning?

 

[vitaminc]

didn't know it would be that much work!

How about changing from notch lapel to shawl lapel? Is that even possible?

 

[vitaminc]

Originally Posted by emmanuel

seems like your about to get a bit creative... what are you planning?

Take a black suit, add silk lapel facing on jacket and silk braiding on the pants and call it a tuxedo.

 

[emmanuel]

Oh ok. I thought you were going somewhere different. Never the less, your post has inspired me to consider doing something like that to bring life to a blazer I am tired of. Here I was thinking all I could do was change the buttons...

 

[haganah]

Originally Posted by vitaminc

Take a black suit, add silk lapel facing on jacket and silk braiding on the pants and call it a tuxedo.

I am sitting here shaking my head.

Manton and Jeff, why don't they cover the back of the collar with the same cloth material as the rest of the suit? Is there any reason for not hiding the felt?

 

[vitaminc]

Originally Posted by emmanuel

Oh ok. I thought you were going somewhere different. Never the less, your post has inspired me to consider doing something like that to bring life to a blazer I am tired of. Here I was thinking all I could do was change the buttons...

maybe change the collar to velvet for the hunting jacket look

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by vitaminc

didn't know it would be that much work!

How about changing from notch lapel to shawl lapel? Is that even possible?

I suppose it would be possible, but notch lapels are tapered to the buttonhole whereas shawls don't (some do, but not to that extent). If you did a shawl with a wide belly you could run a seam along the roll line in order to add on a new lapel entirely, but it would be noticeable near the button.

As for the amount of work, here's an idea

1. Very carefully pick apart the buttonholes, stitch by stitch. The bar tacks on machine buttonholes area beast to remove.
2. Remove the collar. This can be left on if you finish the gorge seam by hand, but with silk a machine seam is neater.
3. Open the lining hem, untack the facing form the canvas; the inside breast pocket, which probably extends beyond the seam of the facing, has to be carefully opened half way to clear the facing seam, the pocket lips and bag are now all hanging free, now the seam joining the lining and the facing can be unsewn. The armhole lining needs to be opened and the side seam, neck, and shoulder as well
4. Baste the canvas and the front together along the front edge, then unsew the facing.
5. If need be, cover the pad stitching with some kind of material to prevent impressions showing though the silk, and whip the open buttonholes together.
6. Use the old facing to cut a new one. Join the front lining panel to the facing and reconstruct the half-opened pocket. Not an easy job, that.
7. Sew the facing to the front, press, turn, baste the edge, then the second baste for the facing.
8. Join the collar to the facing at at the gorge seam, then baste undercollar in place and fell by hand (if the collar was left on, turn and finish gorge seam by hand)
9. Tack the facing to the canvas, sew the lining side seam, fell the hem, armhole and shoulder by hand.
10. Rework buttonholes by hand (can be done by machine is one is extremely precise, but the risk of botching it is not worth the saved time).
11. Write large bill for your client.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by haganah

I am sitting here shaking my head.

Manton and Jeff, why don't they cover the back of the collar with the same cloth material as the rest of the suit? Is there any reason for not hiding the felt?

Do you refer to the undercollar? If so, felt is most often used because it can be shaped easily and will not fray and so can be cut clean without bulky seam allowances (giving a nice flat, thin edge to the collar). It is also firmer and produces better results, IMHO, than using bias-cut cloth, which is the alternative. In both cases, linen canvas is pad-stitched to the felt or cloth. It's never seen when worn so there is no reason to try to conceal it.

 

[Manton]

I have seen coats that had a self undercollar, usually tweeds. I don't think there is any special value to that, just something different. Maybe it looks better when you flip the collar up in bad weather.

 

[emmanuel]

I actually like what Etro does with the contrasting felt color. I think it looks great! however I hate it when people flip the collar up if it isnt nessesary just to show the felt!

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

I have seen coats that had a self undercollar, usually tweeds. I don't think there is any special value to that, just something different. Maybe it looks better when you flip the collar up in bad weather.
I have a couple. Linen, silk and cotton, I think. None in wool.

 

[texas_jack]

Originally Posted by Manton

I have seen coats that had a self undercollar, usually tweeds. I don't think there is any special value to that, just something different. Maybe it looks better when you flip the collar up in bad weather.

My cotton Isaia jacket is like that. It makes less sense because in theory you wouldn't be wearing a cotton jacket when you might get cold.