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Chan vs. CEGO

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coachvu, Jun 7, 2006.

  1. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I'm surprised Carl hasn't commented in this thread yet. [​IMG]
     


  2. whoopee

    whoopee Distinguished Member

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    CEGO, hands down.
     


  3. coachvu

    coachvu Senior Member

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    I would like to try CEGO when I am next in NYC. What is CEGO's turnaround time for a first shirt?

    I've heard around 3 weeks.
     


  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I have been using Jantzen for the past year. They are great value, and I now have more shirts than I need. I think my shirt's fit can be improved though.

    I would like to try CEGO when I am next in NYC. What is CEGO's turnaround time for a first shirt?



    I quote-2-3 weeks. I can turn a shirt out overnight if I have to. The film studios have the budgets. When they pick a shirt on tuesday that has to have three duplicates for thursday, they don't care what they pay.
    or

    You just realized that your tuxedo shirt does not fit and you are getting married in three days!

    the broadway and movie work is fun, but my regular customers keep me quite busy.
    You can see shirts that I have produced in the following shows currently running on Broadway.

    The producers
    Hairspray
    Mamma Mia
    Moving out
    Dirty rotten scoundrels
    Grey Gardens
    wicked
    The drowsey Chaperone Go see this one. And I usually hate musicals

    Currently working on these new productions
    Curtains
    A chorus line
    Broadways Bears. An aids fundraiser.
     


  5. new obsession

    new obsession Senior Member

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    I have a Chan shirt which was measured and basted in HK, but will be mailed to me in NYC. I also plan on having Carl make me a shirt, in fact he has already tailored a formal shirt (one of the old Sulka (sp) ones) for me and has my measurements.

    In addition, I have had a few jantzens made recently, as well as one from Sam's Tailor (downstairs from Chan), and may in fact try Hemrajani while they are here (but probably not, I will probably throw that $ at a better fabric from Carl).

    Yes, I am in search of the perfect custom shirt. If anyone is curious to see side by side comparisons of either fit or detail work on any or all of them at the end of this process, let me know. If not, it will remain my own personal experiment.

    (Truth be told, however, I have already dealt with Carl more than once (although not on a custom shirt), and I have a sneaking suspicion that I should have kept my money and put it all in his pocket. [​IMG] )
     


  6. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior Member

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    I am not familar with Chan.

    I am familar with Carl.

    Carl is solely a shirtmaker. Some tailors offer shirts as an acommodation or service to the suit buying customers. Many tailors do not make the shirts, and many sub-contract them out.

    In addition to the stock shirtings available at most shirtmakers (such as Thomas Mason), Carl buys end bolts. Most of these are superb, and end bolts allow you to buy a shirt at about 1/3 or more off from a stock catalogue fabric.

    Furthermore, Carl is a good guy and honest businessman.

    I highly recommend him.
     


  7. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    Carl,

    I'm curious if your work with Broadway and movies and their schedules and particular requirements makes a difference in the quality of shirts you turn out. That is, do they ask you to do things in a certain way that help you do your job for normal people better? Is it more demanding for your skills, so it makes you become a better fitter, etc.?

    There's a shirtmaker in SoCal that I'm considering using who does work for Hollywood, too, and I'm wondering if that makes them better able to accommodate non-standard features on shirts.

    --Andre
     


  8. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior Member

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    I am curious about diminishing returns to scale for fit/quality in comparison to cost primarily with CEGO and Kabbaz. How much better do your Kabbaz shirts fit? How much better is the quality of the Kabbaz shirts? Is it noticeable? If you had unlimited funds would you purchase strictly Kabbaz, or is the fit/quality close enough as to where you could definitely live with just CEGO, and when you throw in cost CEGO overwhelmingly wins?
    I'm not sure I can answer your question and it is probably a matter of personal thought. Kabbaz does some shirts that are unique to him. He has a model the the collar is continuous - the collar isn't sewn rather it continues. I tried to find a photo but I think it was lost in the crash. The CEGO shirts fit extremely well. They are a great shirt. But Alex's well there is a difference and there should be for the cost, basically his shirts are a work of art. The cost ratio - I don't know. For me it is more like deciding whether I want to eat caviar every night. I probably don't. Could I afford to have all Kabbaz shirts? Yes. Many of his clients do. Alex's shirts are extremely durable - he had one at the Regency two years ago that had been washed 200 times. I can understand how it can be addicting. I travel a lot. I see using Kabbaz's shirt on the road like using a Ferrari to haul lumber. It is a waste. Not the best analogy as Alex's shirts would stand up but Kabbaz's shirts are just overkill for me. When I travel I wear shirts by CEGO and suits by ww Chan. If I spill something or damage them I don't freak out. Special events I wear shirts by Kabbaz and suits by Raphael. I guess I appreciate them more? Sending Alex's shirts out to a commercial/hotel laundry scares me just as sending out a Raphael suit to the cheapest cleaners. I have to do that frequently on the road when I am out for weeks and I try to keep the suitcase light. When I bought my first expensive piece of art I hung it in my office as I thought I spent most of my time there. I realized after a while that I never looked at it. I was always busy. I never took the time to appreciate it. I moved the piece to my home - in a study that I take time to reflect at the end of the day. (When I am there) I guess I just see Alex's shirt as that - they need to be appreciated. I believe Carl and Alex are friends or at least associates. I know Alex has sent clients to Carl when price was an issue. Both produce wonderful shirts that are multiple times better then off the rack because they fit... Really it has to be your decision.
     


  9. raley

    raley Senior Member

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    VC2000,

    Thanks for the response. It is very insightful. I do not have the means to fill my closet along the same lines as many here, but I anticipate (hope) that I will able to in the future, although oil companies are paying college students surprisingly well these days.

    Maybe one of these days if I can make my way up to NYC I can have Carl make a few shirts for me. It just goes to show what a great community this is - that with members here that want and expect the very best from their clothing are able to communicate with some of the people who are actually producing the highest quality men's wear in the world.
     


  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Carl,

    I'm curious if your work with Broadway and movies and their schedules and particular requirements makes a difference in the quality of shirts you turn out. That is, do they ask you to do things in a certain way that help you do your job for normal people better? Is it more demanding for your skills, so it makes you become a better fitter, etc.?

    There's a shirtmaker in SoCal that I'm considering using who does work for Hollywood, too, and I'm wondering if that makes them better able to accommodate non-standard features on shirts.

    --Andre


    The work I do on Broadway depends largely on what is needed.
    Sometimes the shirts look amazing. Other times we sort of close our eyes and push them out the door. Yo have no idea how much abuse stage shirts take. There are usally two of each, sometimes three. They are each worn about 3-4 times a week. They are often under jackets and vests. They are often rigged with snaps.

    I just made a shirt for Baryshnakov that was great. I blieve he wore it for perfomances this week. I made this shirt based on the fiit of another shirt that he liked. I did not measure or fit him. I often end up making shirts based on measurements that I do not trust. It is just difficult to organize schedules with "Stars".

    Who do you plan to use in SoCal. Anto or Venice?

    Rarely
    I appreciate your business, but there are several very good shirtmakers in Houston. Hamilton is the best. Check out Saigon tailors as well.

    vc2000. I love the fact that I do not always know the names of my posting fans. Alex and I are indeed friends. I first met him when he was on East 35th st.
    I am friendly with several of the shirtmakers in NYC. We do trade notes on the "difficult customers" who try out all of the shirtmakers.

    I do know who Odereater is. He is a good guy.
    Thank you all for the kind words and recomendations.
    By the way, My ex-wife does not think that I am such a great guy!

    Carl
     


  11. odoreater

    odoreater Distinguished Member

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    For a picture of me wearing one of my CEGO shirts check out the last page of the "what are you wearing right now" sticky.
     


  12. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    Kabbaz does some shirts that are unique to him. He has a model the the collar is continuous - the collar isn't sewn rather it continues. I tried to find a photo but I think it was lost in the crash.

    Is this his Italian collar? I don't think it's unique to him, as I've seen a Borrelli shirt with that collar, too, but knowing Alex's reputation, his collar is probably engineered to a fare-thee-well compared to the Borrelli. It's for a more casual shirt that you don't plan to wear with a tie.

    --Andre
     


  13. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    Thanks Carl. I know a few dancers and costumers, and have seen my share of wardrobe malfunctions on stage. And that's before they even see the cleaners! Costumes seem to lead a tough life in general.

    I recently got to tour the costume department of a major ballet company, and it's a treat for any clothing nerd with all the dress forms, half-completed costumes whose guts you can peek at, the very expensive steam irons, the design sketches, the huge storage rooms with all of the costumes and their personalized labels, etc. It's like an express bespoke shop.

    For your Baryshnikov shirt, is this part of his program dancing pieces by Aszure Barton and Benjamin Millepied with Hell's Kitchen? He's coming to Santa Barbara in a couple of weeks with that program, so I hope to see your shirts in action.

    In SoCal, I was thinking about Anto, but can you tell me more about Venice?

    --Andre
     


  14. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Special events I wear shirts by Kabbaz and suits by Raphael.
    Unless I am sorely mistaken, we don't know each other.* This must mean that someone has knocked off my label. Now there's an honor I never expected. [​IMG] * I would love to be corrected on this. Perhaps you wouldn't mind PM'ing me.
     


  15. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Distinguished Member

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    ...there are several very good shirtmakers in Houston. Hamilton is the best. Check out Saigon tailors as well.

    Carl, I know of Hamilton by reputation, but hadn't heard of Saigon Tailors. Any idea how much they run? Last I heard, Hamilton was around $200 minimum, but that was a few years ago.
     


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