Chan v. Mina

[HEPennypacker]

I know, I know...apples to oranges, Porsche (Corvette?) to Ferrari. I've never been to either but am interested in both. I've read the threads, but for those who know: For the same fabric, what's the price and quality difference? Looking to buy a sport coat.

 

[fox81]

chan is cheaper.

mina charges 1200 euro for CMT jacket.

chan would be around 900 USD for a jacket in a typical fabric.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

I thini gdl has used both, so he would be best placed to answer.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I thini gdl has used both, so he would be best placed to answer.

+1

Parker can chime in here as well.

 

[lee_44106]

Made in China/Hong-Kong vs. Made in Italy

Evokes different feelings, doesn't it?

 

[poorsod]

1) chan is cheaper but only comes to the US 3x a year vs NSM approximately 8x per year. So if you require fittings, chan will be slower. My first NSM coat cost about $1800-1900 including material. My Chan coats were around $1000-1200 but that was a few years ago.

2) I have 6 coats from Chan and 1 from NSM. NSM is much leaner and shorter.

3) NSM shoulder is a little convex compared to Chan's more natural shoulder. Gdl has a side to side shot, which I'll let him reveal, if he so chooses.

4) my first coat from NSM fits much better than my first from Chan (which I seldom wear). For Chan steady improvements were made to about coat #4 and then improvements plateaued. I found that I get better results from Chan with a fitting rather than making adjustments after the coat is complete. I haven't had #2 from NSM yet.

5) Other than cost I think the biggest difference is styling. Chan is better at a more structured British looking coat. NSM is distinctively Italian looking. I think you should go with the style that you prefer, having one tailor mimic another style is probably counterproductive.

 

[RSS]

Is there a link for Mina?

 

[Parker]

Originally Posted by poorsod

I think you should go with the style that you prefer...
What poorsod said, especially this last part which to me is more important than cost or provenance. You might also consider how close you live to one of the tour stops since in-person fittings and communication are a big part of successful bespeaking. I have things from both tailors and I enjoy all of them.

 

[TC11201]

Originally Posted by poorsod

1) chan is cheaper but only comes to the US 3x a year vs NSM approximately 8x per year. So if you require fittings, chan will be slower. My first NSM coat cost about $1800-1900 including material. My Chan coats were around $1000-1200 but that was a few years ago.

2) I have 6 coats from Chan and 1 from NSM. NSM is much leaner and shorter.

3) NSM shoulder is a little convex compared to Chan's more natural shoulder. Gdl has a side to side shot, which I'll let him reveal, if he so chooses.

4) my first coat from NSM fits much better than my first from Chan (which I seldom wear). For Chan steady improvements were made to about coat #4 and then improvements plateaued. I found that I get better results from Chan with a fitting rather than making adjustments after the coat is complete. I haven't had #2 from NSM yet.

5) Other than cost I think the biggest difference is styling. Chan is better at a more structured British looking coat. NSM is distinctively Italian looking. I think you should go with the style that you prefer, having one tailor mimic another style is probably counterproductive.

+1 - for reference, I've used Chan since abt 2000 and have prob had them make 12+ suits and 10+ jackets (as well as innumerable shirts). Mina has made me 2 suits and 2 jackets (1 each from when she was using Volpe and 1 each with her more recent tailor). I'd add a couple of things:

- Chan is a little more stylistically flexible - I have migrated my preferences over the years from a more typically English / old school HK tailoring style to something much softer and Chan has, with some degree or trial and error, been able to migrate with me. Mina's style is more fixed - it is Neapolitan and that's that. In addition, Chan is more accustomed to varying things, so handle individual requests a little better

- If you want a truer Napoli-style, Mina will execute that better than Chan. Chan's more recent stuff for me is natural shouldered, but does not have the overall softness of Mina's stuff (which is essentially unpadded)

- Mina likes to cut full lapels. if you're in the mood for narrower lapels, look elsewhere.

- I feel Mina handles lighter-weight fabrics / unlined construction slightly better than Chan (although Chan does a very good job as well); I like Chan for the heavier stuff.

Long and short - I use and will continue to use both. Workmanship on both is v high and they both serve very useful purposes.

TC

Oh, I also use Edwin Deboise as well as my own MBT in New York (and no longer use A&S). And yes, I do have a problem with clothing...which is why I feel in such good company here

 

[chasingred]

Could people who have commissioned work by both houses post pictures? It would be great to see examples.

 

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by RSS

Is there a link for Mina?
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=207054 Or are you looking for the website www.napolisumisura.com ?The website isn't really informative.

Originally Posted by TC11201

- I feel Mina handles lighter-weight fabrics / unlined construction slightly better than Chan (although Chan does a very good job as well); I like Chan for the heavier stuff.
This is my impression as well. I find the Chan coats fuller and thus easier to layer and more versatile during winter.

 

[RSS]

Originally Posted by poorsod

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=207054
Or are you looking for the website www.napolisumisura.com ?The website isn't really informative.
Thank you for both links.

 

[comrade]

I do not own either. I have seen Chan "in person"
I have only seen Mina's work in SF photos. Both do beautiful work.
However, my impression is that Mina adheres to a house style that is
very trim and close-fitting. Chan seems more varied. Personally, I do
not think that I would be happy with Mina because I like a more looser fitting
garment, (drape?) which is also probably more appropriate to my build.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by poorsod

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=207054
Or are you looking for the website www.napolisumisura.com ?The website isn't really informative.

The new NSM website goes online later this month.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by comrade

my impression is that Mina adheres to a house style that is very trim and close-fitting. Chan seems more varied. Personally, I do not think that I would be happy with Mina because I like a more looser fitting garment, (drape?) which is also probably more appropriate to my build.
Just to clarify, as I hope some of my pics haven't skewed impressions. I'm 5'10" 162lbs, so while Mina's native preference is for a relatively trim and close-fitting coat, this is very much customized to the individual's frame. As evidenced by Ed's pics, Mina can and does cut a beautiful fuller coat. Others have also requested a more relaxed fit, so perhaps they can post pics to contrast with mine (the first of which are admittedly quite aggressive). Also worthwhile to note: my pics on SF are of my first commissions, and some minor stylistic modifications will make it into future garments... ... but to the OP - consider that Mina got this close her first time around.