Chan v. Mina

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Chan: issues with shoulder lines not being clean (slight bumps and irregularities), and back of trousers still not as clean as I'd like + stylistic changes (a little more shoulder width and lapel width)

NSM: buttoning point too high, too tight at waist (pulling), quarters a tad too open + stylistic changes (take gorge a little lower and lapels a little less wide). I'm not 100% sure about the stylistic changes because I don't want to mess with the house style too much.

The bolded are issues I have as well but I don't mind. Actually I only noticed most of these after gdl brought them up and I checked to see if I had them too.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by poorsod

The bolded are issues I have as well but I don't mind. Actually I only noticed most of these after gdl brought them up and I checked to see if I had them too.

Are you now also obsessed with them?

I'm also wondering if there's ever a point where everything is perfect, and there isn't anything that comes next to improve. I think I know the answer to that.

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Are you now also obsessed with them?

I'm also wondering if there's ever a point where everything is perfect, and there isn't anything that comes next to improve. I think I know the answer to that.

I don't think there is primarily because as soon as what we hoped would be perfect is we can always find something else to nitpick if we try. I've been doing my best to just let things be the way they are and have their own character.

 

[ljrcustom]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Well, what do you think?

She's running a business, not a charity

I figured she charged a premium, but I wanted to know if it is a large increase or if her fabric prices are reasonable.

-LR

 

[TheTukker]

Thanks to all for their contributions - this is a great thread.

 

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

I figured she charged a premium, but I wanted to know if it is a large increase or if her fabric prices are reasonable.

-LR

To put things in perspective. Tip top is about $50/yard for wool and $100+/yard for cashmere (and these are discounted end bolts). Loro Piana sale at Soiffer and Haskin had suit length wool for about $1000 which was already 50% off. The cashmere vicuña blend stuff was $4000 for a suit length, again at about 50% off.

So I'd say NSM prices are fair.

 

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Are you now also obsessed with them? I'm also wondering if there's ever a point where everything is perfect, and there isn't anything that comes next to improve. I think I know the answer to that.
I try to get rid of stuff that I no longer use and now have few RTW coats. So time will tell if these issues bother me enough for me to replace them. Once you have everything perfect, you can always move on to more "advanced" details such as the 1 piece back.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/backs

 

[Viktri]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Chan: issues with shoulder lines not being clean (slight bumps and irregularities), and back of trousers still not as clean as I'd like + stylistic changes (a little more shoulder width and lapel width)

NSM: buttoning point too high, too tight at waist (pulling), quarters a tad too open + stylistic changes (take gorge a little lower and lapels a little less wide). I'm not 100% sure about the stylistic changes because I don't want to mess with the house style too much.

I actually had the same concern and went to see Patrick two weeks ago.

He told me that they generally default to a slightly longer back for the trousers because they've had too many complaints where customers ask for a clean back & find it too tight for their tastes.

He told me that if I really wanted it, he could completely straighten the back of the trousers.

On my way out, I notced his older, longer w/ WW Chan, two helpers both had slightly less than clean trousers but the new helper had very clean trousers.

 

[gdl203]

Well we're at the 6th or 7th iteration at this stage with multiple re-dos, so I don't think it's quite that simple for him to get it right.

 

[Viktri]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Well we're at the 6th or 7th iteration at this stage with multiple re-dos, so I don't think it's quite that simple for him to get it right.

unfortunate to hear

Anything unusual with your legs in particular?

 

[gdl203]

I'd like to think they're in the range of the normal.

 

[HEPennypacker]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, especially poorsod, TC, and gdl (and edmorel and medtech for their excellent threads). I've spent the weekend looking through the old NSM threads again, and I'm pretty certain I want to try Mina next, as the Neapolitan style is something missing from my closet. This decision was probably sealed when I showed a neutral third party--my wife--gdl's comparison thread linked above and she instantly said she liked the one on the right better

. Admittedly, I am still on the fence and see the merits of both, so I might still might commission a Chan later in the year...

 

[TC11201]

Originally Posted by HEPennypacker

Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, especially poorsod, TC, and gdl (and edmorel and medtech for their excellent threads). I've spent the weekend looking through the old NSM threads again, and I'm pretty certain I want to try Mina next, as the Neapolitan style is something missing from my closet. This decision was probably sealed when I showed a neutral third party--my wife--gdl's comparison thread linked above and she instantly said she liked the one on the right better

. Admittedly, I am still on the fence and see the merits of both, so I might still might commission a Chan later in the year...

Good luck with it. Mina is very pleasant to work with and she definitely will do her best to ensure that you're happy with the end product. Let us know how you fare.

 

[emptym]

I tagged along w/ Binge to his appt. w/ Mina and Dino a few days ago. It was a real pleasure to meet them. They're so warm, knowledgeable, patient, humble, and passionate. I wore my Chan breanish, which they complimented a few times and asked to examine. I asked them what they would change about it. They thought the fit and styling were really excellent, but to adapt it to their style a little, they'd extend the shoulders a bit, tighten the skirt a little and make the quarters a little more open. In terms of construction, they would want it completely unlined or not stitch the lining in at the bottom, in order to allow a person who was ironing it to flip the lining up. They said that on thin fabrics, this was particularly helpful to prevent lines/marks from the lining from showing through after an ironing. Also interesting was that they said they preshrink everything so their coats and pants could be washed in cold water. They thought that to get the jacket back in shape, however, one would we need to be an expert ironer.

I was sorely, sorely tempted to get something, but it was just out of my price range for now. I may go to Italy this summer and the promise of fittings may put me over. If they were local, I wouldn't have hesitated. Binge and pocketsquareguy, what did you get? Parker, we appreciated seeing your suit and coats.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by emptym

I tagged along w/ Binge to his appt. w/ Mina and Dino a few days ago. It was a real pleasure to meet them. They're so warm, knowledgeable, patient, humble, and passionate....

I was sorely, sorely tempted to get something, but it was just out of my price range for now. I may go to Italy this summer and the promise of fittings may put me over.

Glad to hear that you were able to meet up. Sounds like you're now in a holding pattern, postponing the inevitable...