Chan Tuxedo Suggestions

[Dapper Dandy]

I have an appointment with Chan tomorrow to have a tuxedo made, only I have not had time to think about what exactly I want. I know I want a peaked-lapel single-button tux, but I'm not sure what else I should specifically request. For pants, is flat-front with no cuffs appropriate? Should the jacket lapels be grosgrain or silk?

I've already had a suit made by Chan and I'm very happy with it, but if anybody can tell me how ordering a tuxedo differs from ordering a regular suit, I'd love to hear it!

 

[zjpj83]

Go with grosgrain.

I would get flap pockets even though I'd keep them tucked in 99% of the time - just gives you that flexibility.

Get no belt trousers for braces. You don't wear a belt with a tuxedo, obviously. If I were you, I would get double forward pleats, as I think they look best on brace trousers.

Are you having a vest made? If so, I would get a black 3-button waistcoat with those straight-across lapel things. I love those and want to get one made myself. With a full back, of course.

 

[Vintage Gent]

I'm sure others will chime in more authoritatively on your commission's details, but let me put in a small word of advocacy for a suit of dinner clothes made with a midnight blue fabric.

 

[JRinDC]

Agree with zjpj83 on all points.

 

[Manton]

Grosgrain is a type of silk; ribbed silk. Your other choice is smooth satin. I prefer the duller luster and surface interest of grosgrain. (Assuming Chan offers both).

Trousers should not have cuffs. Whether they are pleated or not is purely a matter of personal preference. I always get pleats.

If you want a traditional DJ, specify no pocket flaps on the coat. You can have the pocket piping made from the lapel facings silk (I like this touch). You can also have the buttons covered with that silk (ditto). Neither of these steps is "required" but they do make the garment stand out a bit more from a suit. You also want a strip of that silk to run down the outseam of each trouser leg. Chan probably knows all this.

A one-button closure on the coat is, I think, most elegant. Vents or no, your choice. I lean toward none on dinner clothes.

Trousers really should not have belt loops. Get a nice pair of formal braces, watered silk (black or white, black is more traditional with black tie) with braided ends.

 

[Dapper Dandy]

I hadn't thought about it, but now that you mention it, a vest might make sense. Anything I should know about ordering a vest? I'm not sure what you mean by "straight-across lapel things".

 

[thinman]

Originally Posted by Dapper Dandy

I have an appointment with Chan tomorrow to have a tuxedo made, only I have not had time to think about what exactly I want. I know I want a peaked-lapel single-button tux, but I'm not sure what else I should specifically request. For pants, is flat-front with no cuffs appropriate? Should the jacket lapels be grosgrain or silk? I've already had a suit made by Chan and I'm very happy with it, but if anybody can tell me how ordering a tuxedo differs from ordering a regular suit, I'd love to hear it!
Grosgrain or satin are both appropriate for lapel facings. Tuxedo trousers should not have cuffs and should have a single satin "braid" down the side (or does the braid material match the lapel facings? I'm not sure). Buttons are usually fabric-covered and jacket pockets usually have no flaps. Edit: beaten to the punch by the authority, I see.

 

[zjpj83]

Yes, I forgot to mention no vents on the jacket, as MAnton suggests. I also like this for evening.

The flap pockets I also agree with - I don't have flap pockets on my dinner jackets. BUT, I was just thinking - if you have them jetted or whatever (is that the right term?), then you tuck them in and it looks like you don't have flaps. It was just thinking that would just give you added flexibility, but personally, i don't like the look of flaps on a DJ.

 

[zjpj83]

What manton talks about, having the pocket piping made from the lapel facings silk, I actually have this on the sleeve on one of my dinner jackets just at the area by the buttonholes. It's interesting, but I don't know if I would do it again.

 

[Dapper Dandy]

Z, you got a pic or link to that straight-across waistcoat you're talking about?

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by Dapper Dandy

Z, you got a pic or link to that straight-across waistcoat you're talking about?
Like this but in black and with a full back obviously. I first saw one on Fred Astaire when I was young and have loved them ever since.

 

[tsherry]

I've been leaning toward this as well, so appreciate the recommendations so far. I actually wear dinner clothes much more often than I wear a suit, so my first and possibly only foray into bespoke may be just that (No, I'm not a waiter or musician; my wife and I ballroom dance).
I like the idea of midnight blue with black grosgrain. Single breasted, peak lapel, one button, pleats, no cuffs. Low vest of same material.
Please keep us posted on what you decide and post pictures.

 

[tsherry]

Something else came to mind. I think I saw somewhere that one shows slightly more cuff with a dinner jacket than normal. Anyone confirm this?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by tsherry

Something else came to mind. I think I saw somewhere that one shows slightly more cuff with a dinner jacket than normal. Anyone confirm this?
Yeah, it's traditional to show a bit more linen, and even shirt collar above the coat collar.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

What manton talks about, having the pocket piping made from the lapel facings silk, I actually have this on the sleeve on one of my dinner jackets just at the area by the buttonholes. It's interesting, but I don't know if I would do it again.
Here is what I was talking about. As I say, probably wouldn't do this again, though it's kind of cool.