Chan problem - need advice

[sfsnob]

Hi all,

Long time reader, first time poster.

I've received two orders from WW Chan. The first was a sport coat. Very happy with the quality and construction (especially for the price), but the fit was too big in the chest and waist. Patrick noted what areas needed to be taken in when I saw him next and said he would make changes to my pattern and I ordered a suit. I received the suit and the fit was identical to the sport coat - no change. I saw him when he visited last and made him pin it up and take it back with him to HK to make the necessary alterations. I got the suit back a few days ago and after giving the wrinkles from the journey time to release, I noticed major rippling under both pockets, the ticket pocket flap, and on one of the chest darts. Pics attached.

Is this a construction problem or given the nature of the fabric (it's a light zegna australian wool), should it be pressed?

What would you do?

Thanks

 

[Fishball]

Yes, light Zegna wrinkles a lot, it absolutely need a press job, IMO.

 

[Golf_Nerd]

Originally Posted by Fishball

Yes, light Zegna wrinkles a lot, it absolutely need a press job, IMO.

+1

 

[bluscuro]

sfsnob,

I'm sorry to say that IMHO no amount of pressing will correct what we are seeing here. A temporary improvement will be the most you could wish for.

It seems to be a classic case of not allowing sufficient time between pressing the fronts and permanently attaching them to the canvas. Ordinarily the fronts are basted onto the canvas and allowed to rest and acclimatise before permanent attachment. Resting time allows both the canvas and outer fabric to relax and regain their natural state . If this step is rushed, particularly in the case of lighter weights and higher yarn count cloth , the necessary fine equilibrium between canvas and outer will be unattainable resulting in this sort of rippling and bubbleing.

Generally speaking, the lighter the weight and the finer the micronage , the more care and attention is required (read more time to rest between pressing and offering up).

I would consider these jackets totally unacceptable.

Apologies for being so blunt.

 

[sfo423]

Looks like a typical Chan ticket pocket to me. I've never seen him do one cleanly, hence why he only did one for me w/a heavier fabric.

 

[sfsnob]

Originally Posted by bluscuro

sfsnob,

I'm sorry to say that IMHO no amount of pressing will correct what we are seeing here. A temporary improvement will be the most you could wish for.

It seems to be a classic case of not allowing sufficient time between pressing the fronts and permanently attaching them to the canvas. Ordinarily the fronts are basted onto the canvas and allowed to rest and acclimatise before permanent attachment. Resting time allows both the canvas and outer fabric to relax and regain their natural state . If this step is rushed, particularly in the case of lighter weights and higher yarn count cloth , the necessary fine equilibrium between canvas and outer will be unattainable resulting in this sort of rippling and bubbleing.

Generally speaking, the lighter the weight and the finer the micronage , the more care and attention is required (read more time to rest between pressing and offering up).

I would consider these jackets totally unacceptable.

Apologies for being so blunt.

This is what I feared and needed to hear. Thank you for your honesty. I will try getting it pressed, but if the rippling reappears, I will ask Chan for a full refund and never use him again.

 

[Despos]

Your jackets need pressing by a tailor not a drycleaner. You should have no problem. I would consider continuing using Chan as to how you like their fit and make rather than this issue. The jackets look worse than what the actual problem is. You shouldn't have an issue if they are pressed properly.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by sfsnob

This is what I feared and needed to hear. Thank you for your honesty. I will try getting it pressed, but if the rippling reappears, I will ask Chan for a full refund and never use him again.

Try the pressing. It's obviously your choice to use Chan or not in the future, but don't be so emotional. They are about making sure they do things right, and in my experience, Chan is willing to do what it takes. If you are willing to work with them, you can have a "go to" place for years to come.

 

[sfsnob]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Try the pressing. It's obviously your choice to use Chan or not in the future, but don't be so emotional. They are about making sure they do things right, and in my experience, Chan is willing to do what it takes. If you are willing to work with them, you can have a "go to" place for years to come.


I'm going to try the pressing.

Emotional? Call me crazy, but most would call refusing to put up with 5 months of waiting for a suit, only to find that when it arrives, the fit adjustments weren't made, and then after another 3 weeks the fit still isn't right and there is possibly a major problem in the construction quite rationale.

 

[Douglas]

^ While I understand your frustration, bespoke is always time consuming and involves multiple fittings. Some would even say that it involves multiple garments. And if you're trying to do bespoke through just a few fittings when the tailor comes into town, 5 months is really on the optimistic side of the range.

Have you talked to Chan about this issue?

I mean, you're welcome to try someone else, but when you go HK bespoke, although your experience is not an ideal one, you sort of have to expect some of this.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by sfsnob

I'm going to try the pressing.

Emotional? Call me crazy, but most would call refusing to put up with 5 months of waiting for a suit, only to find that when it arrives, the fit adjustments weren't made, and then after another 3 weeks the fit still isn't right and there is possibly a major problem in the construction quite rationale.

I am not equating your feelings of frustration as being irrational. I used the word emotional because you basically sounded like a 5 year old when you declared, if I can't press out the problem, I'm asking for a refund and never using Chan again! As Douglas advised, part of the MTM/bespoke process can be quite time consuming or just full of wait time, and it is not uncommon for issues to arise. I simply attempted to reassure you that I believe Chan will rectify the problem, and that it would be worth your while to continue to work with them to resolve your issues. Chan has had many satisfied customers, including myself. Whether you want to do that is up to you.

I certainly feel your angst and frustration and wish you the best of luck!

 

[grimslade]

I know it's a perverse reaction to this thread, but it has me thinking that it might be worth it to give Chan a try. Is $1,000 a realistic estimate for suit in a decent (not super-fancy) fabric?

 

[Despos]

These jackets were shipped from Hong Kong, during August, in a box, most likely covered by a plastic bag. The inside of the box becomes steamy from heat and humidity and this is the result. This would happen if it was Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford etc., etc.. How would you look after a trip like that?
Have the jackets pressed and discuss your concerns with Chan. If you don't care for the process, the waiting, the adjusting and so on, explore other alternatives.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by grimslade

I know it's a perverse reaction to this thread, but it has me thinking that it might be worth it to give Chan a try. Is $1,000 a realistic estimate for suit in a decent (not super-fancy) fabric?

I believe the least inexpensive fabric is the vitalis barbera (VB) in the s110's book. Pretty decent selection, and material looks great for about $1060 or so for a 2 piece. The s1130s will set you back about $1200 for a 2 piece, IIRC. If you're super patient, go the basted fitting route, but only available if you insist on it.

 

[sfsnob]

Originally Posted by grimslade

I know it's a perverse reaction to this thread, but it has me thinking that it might be worth it to give Chan a try. Is $1,000 a realistic estimate for suit in a decent (not super-fancy) fabric?

Yes, you can get a 2-piece suit for $1,000 from Chan. The suit with the fabric above was $1,600. However, since you are in NYC, why? Aren't there many other local tailors available to you? One of my frustrations with Chan is the inconvenience of doing multiple fittings.