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chain stitch hemming

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sbbbjm, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. sbbbjm

    sbbbjm Senior member

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    hey guys -- i just bought a pair of Straight Sven Dry Selvages and i want to get them hemmed up a couple of inches -- hemmed with a chainstitch machine that is.

    i have the nudie thread (requested it) now all i need is a tailor with the machine to do it.

    does anyone know of any places that do it in texas preferably? if not, i know how to do all the measuring etc, so does anyone know a place i could send them out to?
     
  2. poly800rock

    poly800rock Senior member

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    hey guys -- i just bought a pair of Straight Sven Dry Selvages and i want to get them hemmed up a couple of inches -- hemmed with a chainstitch machine that is.

    i have the nudie thread (requested it) now all i need is a tailor with the machine to do it.

    does anyone know of any places that do it in texas preferably? if not, i know how to do all the measuring etc, so does anyone know a place i could send them out to?



    texas? who knows...its hard enough to find em in NYC and philly (none that I know)
     
  3. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The 45rpm store in NYC will do it.
     
  4. chadler

    chadler Well-Known Member

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    how did you get the nudie thread? i'd like to get some
     
  5. denimdestroyedmylife

    denimdestroyedmylife Senior member

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    Email nudie and they will send you out a little bit of swatch o' denim and nudie-color thread.
     
  6. dk7m

    dk7m Senior member

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    ^Does that cost any money?
     
  7. denimdestroyedmylife

    denimdestroyedmylife Senior member

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  8. Spencer Young

    Spencer Young Senior member

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    So really, if enough of us emailed them, we could patch together our own SF Nudie?
     
  9. kronik

    kronik Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    So really, if enough of us emailed them, we could patch together our own SF Nudie?
     
  10. lupin23rd

    lupin23rd Well-Known Member

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    Is there much of a different in chain-stich hemming jeans vs not? Or is it not possible to do it another way for some jeans?

    I'm going to Tokyo in a couple weeks and plan to pick up at least one pair, and hopefully get the right sizing on other brands so I can mail order in the future...I can probably just get the store to hem them when I am there (or find some place to do it) but if I can't find a place here....

    m
     
  11. 79 camaro

    79 camaro Member

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    chain stitch hemmer is a specialty machine that is harder to find now a days, most cheaper denim brands use a lock stitch, which is a stronger stitch, (chain unravels a lot) there is nothing wrong with lock stitch, it looks just like a straight stitch on the back side. A chain stitch only has chain stiching on the inside of the hem, can't see the difference from the outside. It's what was used on originals so if you are a purist you want that, if your not it doesn't matter.
     
  12. 79 camaro

    79 camaro Member

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    you don't have to get denim thread from nudie, you can can get thread from www.zipperstop.com, you want a tex 100 or 120 if you want pronounced stitch. It's best to use cotton or at least cotton core because when the thread shrinks it causes hem to wrinkle and therefore nice indigo color differences. Poly thread doesn't shrink so you won't get the wrinkle effect.
     
  13. kbuzz

    kbuzz Senior member

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    chain stitch hemmer is a specialty machine that is harder to find now a days, most cheaper denim brands use a lock stitch, which is a stronger stitch, (chain unravels a lot) there is nothing wrong with lock stitch, it looks just like a straight stitch on the back side. A chain stitch only has chain stiching on the inside of the hem, can't see the difference from the outside. It's what was used on originals so if you are a purist you want that, if your not it doesn't matter.

    I respectfully disagree. If the hem is not chain stitched, the bottoms never look like the original. They look ok, but never really pucker like the original. They will always look a bit like "slacks". Heck if i want to wear slacks then id wear. I have 10 year old levis that i still regret not getting chain stitched.

    With that said if you cant get them chain stitched, a number of tailors can cut the pants and sew back the original bottoms. Many purists skoff at this but i think its better then the non chain hem. Explore this option
     
  14. stickonatree

    stickonatree Senior member

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    With that said if you cant get them chain stitched, a number of tailors can cut the pants and sew back the original bottoms. Many purists skoff at this but i think its better then the non chain hem. Explore this option

    i'm not sure that this is the best way out there either. putting the original hem on the bottom creates a really stiff hem, since there is overlapping of denim to stitch on the OG hem, creating a thick "bulge" that always seems to want to stay in a circle rather than flow and fall naturally.
     
  15. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    We chainstitch all jeans for free at Self Edge if they were bought from us for instore sales only.
    We charge $15 if you bring in jeans that weren't bought from us.
    With that said, if you're not able to come in, don't get an original hem. In my opinion, an original hem never falls naturally and the outcome isn't as good as if you just had gotten a regular top stitch hem.
     
  16. 79 camaro

    79 camaro Member

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    the reason some jean hems pucker is because the designer used cotton thread not polly thread(industry standard). The shrinkage of the cotton in the thread causes the hem to pucker and gives it the shading we all so desire. same goes for the railroad tracks on the side seams. On the subject of authenticity you need to consider the country of origin as a major factor. Now that everybody is into their jeans not just Japanese, it is turning into a fashion trend that certain brands end up mass producing in China. Many Chinese factories have bought up the old union specials chainstitch machines from US jean factories that have gone out of business because of cheap labor overseas. Denim jeans are about American as apple pie, so if you really want to get authentic product make sure it's from a company that has always cared, not just because it's in fashion and make sure they are made in USA. Made in Japan is ok though because they care so much about their details and quality and have purchased many of Levis original 30" looms. They also have a strong passion for indigo and go to painstaking levels of dipping yarns 25 or 30 times to get that deep indigo, even going so much as to hand wringing the indigo into the yarns to get deeper indigo penitration.
     
  17. flashback

    flashback Senior member

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    Location:
    LA
    Is there much of a different in chain-stich hemming jeans vs not? Or is it not possible to do it another way for some jeans?

    I'm going to Tokyo in a couple weeks and plan to pick up at least one pair, and hopefully get the right sizing on other brands so I can mail order in the future...I can probably just get the store to hem them when I am there (or find some place to do it) but if I can't find a place here....

    m


    most of the stores in japan have machines on hand and will chainstitch your jeans free of charge.
     
  18. bsyde82

    bsyde82 Senior member

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    Jan 17, 2007
    We chainstitch all jeans for free at Self Edge if they were bought from us for instore sales only.
    We charge $15 if you bring in jeans that weren't bought from us.
    With that said, if you're not able to come in, don't get an original hem. In my opinion, an original hem never falls naturally and the outcome isn't as good as if you just had gotten a regular top stitch hem.


    would u say this runs true for washed denim as well? or are u only talking about raw denim?
     
  19. Synrax

    Synrax Senior member

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    Aug 6, 2007
    This should apply to washed too. I got the original hem on a one wash pair of jeans and it tends to keep its circular shape, theres a slight bulk to it, and it doesn't seem to fall naturally. It looks and feels crappy to me but most people wouldn't notice from afar. In hindsight I wish I would have gotten a regular top stitch hem if chainstitching wasn't an option.
     
  20. poly800rock

    poly800rock Senior member

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    would u say this runs true for washed denim as well? or are u only talking about raw denim?

    probably even worse on washed denim
     

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