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Cesare Attolini Appreciation Thread

zr3rs

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I assume that the current format is a result of the Covid situation in Italy early this year.
 

Aquafortis

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I assume that the current format is a result of the Covid situation in Italy early this year.
Yes, of course that explains it. Not sure what I was thinking - maybe that they would shoot F/W well before spring season.
 

Professor Χάος

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Hello Gentlemen,

My first Attolini suit was a vintage model, with double pleated pants. Surprisingly, it had significant shoulder padding. I wore it for a while, and received compliments every time I put it on. I sold it a few years ago on the bay.....

Here is my first contemporary Attolini
Attolini Blue 1.jpg
 

Professor Χάος

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Some of their pieces do have handwork, many do not. They are always doing things to a very high standard/quality, but it's hard to cross compare fully handmade suits to outerwear. Hope that makes sense.

Best,

Ian
ShopTheFinest.com
I actually had a question for all you Attolini experts out there. I can acquire an Attolini from Italy at a steep discount in my size, but its drop 4. The drop of a suit is supposed to be the difference between the chest and the waist. In this case, the tagged size is 41 and the pants are 37. I was planning to buy it and reduce the pants by 2 inches and trim the torso if necessary. Does the a drop 4 also mean the body will be roomy? Do you think my plans are feasible?
 
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Professor Χάος

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I'm also wondering, why are Attolinis and Kitons cut so long? I wear a 42R, but the jacket length on Attolinis and Kitons is often 31-31.5 inches beneath the collar, which is long for contemporary suits. The Attolini pictured above is 40R so its cut a little shorter (30 inches). The Attolini I intend to acquire is 41/51C drop 4, so its length beneath the collar is only 29.75 inches, which is the shortest length I'll wear. I was just wondering why Attolinis and Kitons seem to be cut so long?
 

Professor Χάος

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Top notch! Great both in terms of fabrics and craftmanship.
Qualitywise i guess the two are pretty similar. But style and tastewise i find Attolini to be the preferrable choice.
I have a couple Kiton shirts, eight or ten Attolini, and about the same number of Finamore. Attolini and Finamore are definitely my favorite, mainly in the slimmer cut. I don't think you can go wrong with Kiton, and I have not found significant variation in quality of fabrics or construction between Kiton and Attolini. So, it comes down to personal preferences, and whether one feels the higher price point of Kiton is justified, if it may be a factor of consideration.
+1

I personally prefer Finamore and Attolini to Kiton shirts. Kiton shirts are fine indeed, but their collars are flimsy, and don't retain their shape. I had to have my tailor insert a double layer of stiff interlining in all my shirt collars, otherwise they droop after 30 minutes of wear. The exception is Tom Ford, whose double buttoned collars are so well designed that they generally retain their shape better than any other brand.
 
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Ich_Dien

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I'm also wondering, why are Attolinis and Kitons cut so long? I wear a 42R, but the jacket length on Attolinis and Kitons is often 31-31.5 inches beneath the collar, which is long for contemporary suits. The Attolini pictured above is 40R so its cut a little shorter (30 inches). The Attolini I intend to acquire is 41/51C drop 4, so its length beneath the collar is only 29.75 inches, which is the shortest length I'll wear. I was just wondering why Attolinis and Kitons seem to be cut so long?
I wouldn't call it long, I'd just call it traditional. Also bear in mind that a lot of their suits have a high degree of customisation for the intended customer, be it done by the RTW tailor or via their MTM process.

If the suit is a drop four, then yes, it will have significantly more room in the waist of the jacket as well. I wouldn't like to be messing around with alterations beyond a couple of inches, especially if there is a pattern to the fabric.
 

Aquafortis

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I'm also wondering, why are Attolinis and Kitons cut so long? I wear a 42R, but the jacket length on Attolinis and Kitons is often 31-31.5 inches beneath the collar, which is long for contemporary suits. The Attolini pictured above is 40R so its cut a little shorter (30 inches). The Attolini I intend to acquire is 41/51C drop 4, so its length beneath the collar is only 29.75 inches, which is the shortest length I'll wear. I was just wondering why Attolinis and Kitons seem to be cut so long?
I have found Kiton to be cut longer than Attolini, to generalize. I don't think 31 inches is excessively long for a 42. Makers have to pick an assumption for the average torso length, plus @Ich_Dien makes a good point about variations that can result from the majority of MTM with both houses.
 

Professor Χάος

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I wouldn't call it long, I'd just call it traditional. Also bear in mind that a lot of their suits have a high degree of customisation for the intended customer, be it done by the RTW tailor or via their MTM process.

If the suit is a drop four, then yes, it will have significantly more room in the waist of the jacket as well. I wouldn't like to be messing around with alterations beyond a couple of inches, especially if there is a pattern to the fabric.
Thanks for your reply Ich_Dien,

The suit I wanted to purchase is 21.5 inches in the chest and 21.25 inches in the jacket waist. That doesn't seem to be too expansive to have it altered, does it? Do you think having the waist taken in 0.5-0.75 inches on either side is too radical an alteration? I've had that done successfully on many suits. The pants would have to be taken in by 2 inches overall, but I've had that done many times as well.
 

Ich_Dien

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..
 

Ich_Dien

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Thanks for your reply Ich_Dien,

The suit I wanted to purchase is 21.5 inches in the chest and 21.25 inches in the jacket waist. That doesn't seem to be too expansive to have it altered, does it? Do you think having the waist taken in 0.5-0.75 inches on either side is too radical an alteration? I've had that done successfully on many suits. The pants would have to be taken in by 2 inches overall, but I've had that done many times as well.
If that's the case it would appear to have zero waist suppression...are you sure the seller has the measurements correct? It could very well be the case, however.

What drop do you normally wear?
 

Professor Χάος

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What drop do you normally wear?
Most of my suits are drop 6, some 7, and a few contemporary suits are drop 8 (especially Isaia).
I've never bought a drop 4 before, which is why I was asking. But I had the sales clerk measure the suit several times, and the dimensions he quotes don't sound outside of my experience.
 

Professor Χάος

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If that's the case it would appear to have zero waist suppression...are you sure the seller has the measurements correct? It could very well be the case, however.

What drop do you normally wear?
For me....20.5 inches of waist suppression is as far as I will go. I'm not a fan of high degrees of waist suppression. It creates the dreaded X across the waist. I like jacket waists to button so that they fit perfectly without any creasing and certainly no tightness around my stomach area or the dreaded X across my jacket.
 

Ich_Dien

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Well, as I say, if the fabric isn't heavily patterned then it would appear to be something of a blank canvas for your alterations tailor if there is already zero waist suppression.

Personally it would set alarm bells ringing for me as the person who commissioned or had the previous suit tailored must have been of rather unique dimensions if he was running drop <4. This will have no doubt effected the overall shape of the suit.
 

Professor Χάος

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I have found Kiton to be cut longer than Attolini, to generalize. I don't think 31 inches is excessively long for a 42. Makers have to pick an assumption for the average torso length, plus @Ich_Dien makes a good point about variations that can result from the majority of MTM with both houses.
I have some suits that are 31 inches in length. They look long on me, but not excessively long.
I bought a Kiton a couple of years ago, and it was 31.5 inches in length, and I had my tailor reduce the length by 0.5 inches. It now looks more proportional to my body.
 

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