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CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    ^ Agree on the aesthetic and break. Looks like tutee's trou. Break crosses the line from drape to droop.

    - M
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Trousers look good. Too much break? No way.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Trousers look good. Too much break? No way.

    I didn't know you were one of those puddle people.
     
  4. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    ^ Back looks fine. Slightly droopy in front. Perhaps he can get Chan to slant the break, less in the front but maintain the back Mid-Atlantic solution.

    - M
     
  5. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    I've always thought this cat nailed it:

    [​IMG]

    but his physique needs no tailor's magic.


    I don't see a lot of win here. Shoulder is suffering from dimple effect and there's no roll to the lapel. Barbera does a good example of showing how to get your roll on...

    [​IMG]

    That said, the Asian dude definitely has the physique where DB could be a win. He just needs to step his game up.
     
  6. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    Trousers cut for braces needn't be so roomy. Bown (http://www.bownsbespoke.com/) has several examples of trousers cut for braces with plenty of break that are not this full in the leg. And Bown is significantly heftier than Mr. Pink. The trousers above are simply too full in the thigh imo. A bit of shape would look a lot cleaner with such a well-fitting jacket.
     
  7. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Yep... Pants like that just look too big, they have no shape at all
    Seriously? Look at the curve at the back of his pants. That's more shape than I've seen on the vast majority of pants on this forum, and I think it looks great. Not a look I want for myself, and they could still be trimmer for him. The front could also be tweaked. However, any critique that says these pants don't have any shape is just plain wrong. It may not be shape that you like, but that's entirely different.
     
  8. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Shoulder is suffering from dimple effect

    Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?
     
  9. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?

    With that sort of (machine) padding, I wouldn't.
     
  10. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?

    A good tailor will always ask 'And will sir be carrying his overcoat in the left or right hand?' [​IMG]

    Point's well taken about the roll. My thought was more that the details on the coat are better balanced than on o/o's.
     
  11. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    With that sort of (machine) padding, I wouldn't.

    Then you're completely unrealistic.
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    With that sort of (machine) padding, I wouldn't.

    In addition to how he is holding is arm I also feel that that kind of effect is endemic to roped shoulders.
     
  13. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    CaymanS, a little knowledge is dangerous. Take a step back from the keyboard.
     
  14. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    CaymanS, a little knowledge is dangerous. Take a step back from the keyboard.

    I have no idea what you mean.

    @TRINI, OK. Fair enough.
     
  15. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have no idea what you mean.

    @TRINI, OK. Fair enough.


    probably the (machine) padding comment.
     
  16. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    probably the (machine) padding comment.
    Yes. What is a machine-padded shoulder? Are you talking about machine padded lapels? Are you talking about machine-made (i.e. pre-made) shoulder pads? Interpreted either way your comment betrays a lack of understanding wrt construction types, and X-ray vision/sartorial divination to boot. That Japanese guy's coat has a crease pressed into the lapel. Not au fait with SF taste, but I wouldn't say that it was wrong per se.
     
  17. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    Yes.

    What is a machine-padded shoulder?

    Are you talking about machine padded lapels? Are you talking about machine-made (i.e. pre-made) shoulder pads?

    Interpreted either way your comment betrays a lack of understanding wrt construction types, and X-ray vision/sartorial divination to boot.

    That Japanese guy's coat has a crease pressed into the lapel. Not au fait with SF taste, but I wouldn't say that it was wrong per se.


    I did not mean machine-padded, and apologies for being unclear. The shoulder pads strike me as machine/pre-made and not cut to the size of his shoulders. Even with this level of padding, if they were narrower, I simply think it would give a cleaner look and would dimple less when he swings his arms out.
     
  18. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    You are still missing the forest for the trees - diagnosing fit 'problems' from a dynamic photo is a fools errand. Suggesting 'solutions' to these 'problems' only adds to the [​IMG] BTW, pre-made shoulder pads can be trimmed to fit shoulders, and you can have poorly thought out handmade shoulder pads. Which brings me back to the X-ray vision/sartorial divination point.
     
  19. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    The break ruins the appearance of the trousers. A different cut where the cloth flows out over the shoe would look much nicer. Even less baggy legs and it can be done. For how baggy the legs are the bottoms should be out over the front of the shoes more.

    Overall it is nice cloth and style.


    Not quite sure what you mean, but in that pic the trou (especially the left leg) are a bit windblown. Normally they drape cleaner:

    [​IMG]


    Break might be a bit more than is common here, but it doesn't bother me enough to change it.

    And as for the shoes, I have big feet. Trousers don't cover them much unless the bottoms are really wide - far more so than these.
     
  20. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

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    Belly and the next button up would forgive a lot.

    With apologies to the thread, a blazer--but the only DB I own with real belly--buttoned three ways:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    I can see the argument for buttoning the middle or the middle and bottom, but my inner slouch just prefers the roll through to the bottom.


    Barbera does a good example of showing how to get your roll on...

    [​IMG]


    Here's the full shot of Barbera that day. Even when I don't steal his whole combination (which I have done), I ape his buttoning point:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     

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