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CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    My advice is to listen to the men who wear pants. - B
    However, start pantless, and really be honest with yourself vis-Ã -vis the taper from your thighs to your ankles. As mentioned, immitation is the highest form of flattery. - M
     
  2. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]

    If you cut the heads off of this picture, it would be MBreinin and I having a conversation in Vox's closet.
     
  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    New suit from Chan. These pants are definitely too full and will be slimmed. Also, not sure if a bit too much drape in the chest. Minnis 520, blue hairline shirt, and Drakes shantung silk tie.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    When I go to Chan, I will take these pictures and say, "This. I want this." (Okay, maybe with a bit less break on the trousers...)
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you cut the heads off of this picture, it would be MBreinin and I having a conversation in Vox's closet.

    He'll be here all night, folks. Tip your waitresses, and try the veal.
     
  6. forex

    forex Senior member

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    When I go to Chan, I will take these pictures and say, "This. I want this." (Okay, maybe with a bit less break on the trousers...)

    I think that Chan cuts a great jacket for Mr.Pink but as others said,I'd make the pants little slimmer and very minimal break. When are you planning to use Chan?
     
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think that Chan cuts a great jacket for Mr.Pink but as others said,I'd make the pants little slimmer and very minimal break. When are you planning to use Chan?

    If I can stop myself from wasting my shekels on impulse buys, I'd like to do it on the November swing through San Francisco. I'd hate to have to wait until March of next year. Plus, there's the conversation with the missus which starts with "You want to spend how much on a suit?!"
     
  8. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    On behalf of collegiate style, I ask that you: (a) Turn in your sacks, but after... (b) Ripping off the top button of your 3/2s in shame. I say this on behalf of GTH Pants guy (below), the Brooks, Press and Davidson families, and really, all that is holy. [​IMG] Pink: I think that the pants fall great (as a good bespoke pair with suspenders should), but, uhm, they could be a teensy, tiniest, tad-i-est slimmer to reduce the chance of becoming known as the Big Pants Man of San Diego City. - B
    Whoa. I'm not saying all slim is bad. But there far too many guys on SF who, in Wodehouse's words, look like they've been poured into their pants and forgotten to say when. And anytime someone posts a pair of beautifully cut fuller trousers like Pink's, they get reamed for it. I have and wear trou that are slimmer than his, but I appreciate the artistry there and think SF needs more of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    New suit from Chan. Minnis 520,

    The colour of the 0520 is just great. Is it fully lined and with not too light a colour lining to avoid it showing through the fresco weave?
     
  10. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Pink, it's not so much a question of slimming the pants or not, but of giving them shape. Right now they seem to fall straight down (and come in a bit at the cuff). There should be some gradual decrease from the thigh to the shoe. Just think of the shape of your leg. The pants have a nice shape from the back. Maybe it's more an issue of ironwork than it is about how they are cut. Then again, I'm not a tailor so I have no idea what I am talking about.

    Yep - it's the front line that's hanging out in space with no relation to your legs. It's a very nice suit anyway, but you can have a little less volume there.

    On behalf of collegiate style, I ask that you:

    (a) Turn in your sacks, but after...

    (b) Ripping off the top button of your 3/2s in shame.

    I say this on behalf of GTH Pants guy (below), the Brooks, Press and Davidson families, and really, all that is holy.

    [​IMG]

    Pink: I think that the pants fall great (as a good bespoke pair with suspenders should), but, uhm, they could be a teensy, tiniest, tad-i-est slimmer to reduce the chance of becoming known as the Big Pants Man of San Diego City.


    - B


    Or if you prefer the clever version.

    **

    I wore a pair of lightweight flannels yesterday in the CA june gloom with double pleats and a high waist - I down with wide leg. But you still need manage the silhouette as a whole.
     
  11. greger

    greger Senior member

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    The greatest offense in classless American is to be criticised by someone who has the outward signifiers of superiority (more knowledge, more experience, more money, better clothes, a better education, a bigger job, more intelligence - you name it). No-one is the boss of anyone; no-one is an expert; only God can judge me. To pretend to any position, any status, any knowledge, is to be an elitist. Fitting and ironic that an intellectual construct of the left has become the anti-intellectual calling cry of the right, but that's for another day.

    TL; DR - hard to credit you with finding the mote in my eye when you can't see the orange creamsicle-on-newsprint in your own.


    If you have nothing to say why are you here?
     
  12. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    That's a lovely suit Mr. Pink. You look great. I like the trousers a lot. I hopw you don't slim/taper these, but do consider having them hemmed a bit shorter.
     
  13. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    So, citified, countrified, CBD?

    [​IMG]


    This is really nice imo.
     
  14. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Meanwhile, back in the CBD thread...

    [​IMG]


    The break ruins the appearance of the trousers. A different cut where the cloth flows out over the shoe would look much nicer. Even less baggy legs and it can be done. For how baggy the legs are the bottoms should be out over the front of the shoes more.

    Overall it is nice cloth and style.
     
  15. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    So, when people whine in someone else's thread, and then the OP deletes their posts, the same guys will not whine elsewhere?

    I admit it is an interesting theory.

    Although, I suspect that you talk about whining, you are thinking of something different.


    - B


    Think of it as improved allocation and recognition of whining.

    Maybe I'll just start a new one. [​IMG]

    SF is crying out for WISWRN. Sometimes whatisjameswearing is down, after all [​IMG]

    ^ Not so much width of where lapels and collar sit in regards to shoulder length, but more so on the belly of the lapels themselves.

    With DB there is a chance for curves, all over the place. With curves, I prefer them voluptuous.

    Think Tom Ford or Edward Sexton, although not as swashbuckling as they.

    - M


    This is really nice imo.

    The choice of button combined with the narrowness of the lapel leave a decorative void at the waist, which I don't think works. Belly and the next button up would forgive a lot. I've always thought this cat nailed it:

    [​IMG]

    but his physique needs no tailor's magic.
     
  16. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I'm definitely not planning on changing the new suit to slim fitting pants. I don't think that works for me. But these pants are considerably roomier than my other pants from Chan. The waist and seat need to come in as well as the leg. I made a change in the pattern, increasing the rise so the waistband rests at the top of my hipbones. I had a basted fitting but not a forward fitting. I don't know if I wasn't able to judge the fit well at the basted fitting or if the adjustments that should have been made weren't. For comparison, here are pics of a couple of other pairs, still full cut, but with more shape.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The colour of the 0520 is just great. Is it fully lined and with not too light a colour lining to avoid it showing through the fresco weave?

    The jacket is quarter lined. Patrick mentioned that he would use a dark colored canvas that wouldn't show through the cloth.
     
  17. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    On behalf of collegiate style, I ask that you:

    (a) Turn in your sacks, but after...

    (b) Ripping off the top button of your 3/2s in shame.

    I say this on behalf of GTH Pants guy (below), the Brooks, Press and Davidson families, and really, all that is holy.

    [​IMG]

    Pink: I think that the pants fall great (as a good bespoke pair with suspenders should), but, uhm, they could be a teensy, tiniest, tad-i-est slimmer to reduce the chance of becoming known as the Big Pants Man of San Diego City.


    - B


    I am sure that Vox is aware that the guy on the left is one of the Press family members who worked
    at the NY store probably through the mid 80s when the company was bought by a Japanese apparel
    group. I still have a suit he sold me in my " clothing museum". It is not a 3/2 sack but a two button
    side vented model Press briefly sold, probably in the 70s.
     
  18. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    The jacket is quarter lined. Patrick mentioned that he would use a dark colored canvas that wouldn't show through the cloth.

    Thank you.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Pink, I think one thing you could do if you don't really want a taper to your trousers is to have just a bit of the upper thigh pinched in so that rather than the trousers falling straight down from the end of your butt they show a slight contour before draping down giving your side silhouette a but more shape.
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pink, your trousers look to me like brace trousers are supposed to look. Not everyone likes that and I have moved away from it but they strike me as very good for what they are.

    Slightly too much break is the worst thing I can say.
     

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