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CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Let's make it seven continent CBD.

    In that pic, my suit and shirt are American (English cloth on the suit, Italian on the shirt), the tie is Italian (Scottish cloth I would guess), the square is English, socks are French, and shoes Hungarian. So no need to limit.
     
  2. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    OK then, I'll play, and submit to (and try to positively engage with) whatever critique you offer. Have at it:
    [​IMG]
    (hopefully the pic shows up; Imageshack is causing problems for me too tonight, I've now switched it to imgur) For context - I would wear this, and feel I was appropriately dressed, for an appointment with a conservative professional (senior doctor, accountant, banker, lawyer, etc.). I wouldn't wear it for an interview or anything like that. So I guess I would view it as conservative business dress for day-to-day wearing between professional equals, if that makes sense. PS. I've used the SPOILER code for now. If it passes reasonable muster, I'll uncode the spoiler, as being worthy of the thread. I'll let Manton decide that. [​IMG]
     
  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    ooooh I like this thread - too bad I missed it today. I was wearing a perfectly boring grey suit and neat Marinella. Even black captoes.

    I'll try to post from time to time
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not your best, Manton. The square and tie seem too disparate.
     
  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not your best, Manton. The square and tie seem too disparate.

    Aren't you an apostle of disparate squares?

    Anyway, you are wrong, it works. The border of the paisleys picks up the tie very neatly.

    I am not fully sure about the tie with that suit. The color works well with mid gray flannel, the dark, not as much.
     
  7. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Cool thread. Will you be improving or adjusting your shaving technique?
     
  8. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    This thread is the anti-Spoo.
     
    3 people like this.
  9. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    Nice to have you back Manton.
     
  10. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    This thread is the anti-Spoo.
    That sounds like it requires a call to action if ever I've heard one. Definitely interested in watching and learning. Thanks for doing this.
     
  11. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    I would have never considered chukka boots or pebblegrain leather to be CBD, much less both together… great look however, keep the experiment going!
    Well, let's be holier than the Pope, shall we? The shoes simply do not comport with conservative office style. First, they are brown. Black is the only appropriate office dress in the city. Many references could be cited, but I'll flag Nicholas Storey's History of Men's Fashion for my purposes this evening. Second, anything but an Oxford shoe is in error. A derby simply will not do. Plenty of support for this among the classicists, so no need for a citation. Third, the pebble-grain is inappropriate. And finally, as noted, there's no way in hell a pocket square is conservative business dress. Judge not lest ye be judged Manton! That having been said, I'm still a fan ....
     
  12. countdemoney

    countdemoney Senior member

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    Good thread. Hope some UCBD will sneak in from time to time.
     
  13. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    And finally, as noted, there's no way in hell a pocket square is conservative business dress.

    You're confusing CBD with UCBD.
     
  14. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    I'd agree that a derby is best saved for more casual wear, such as a sport coat. On the fence about brown, but then that's the Italian side in me.
     
  15. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Senior member

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    Nice to have you back Manton.

    + 1, I for one always appreciated your fits, so nice to see you posting them again. Those shoes are really fantastic, I don't see that color much in pebble grain but I like it a great deal.
     
  16. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    You're confusing CBD with UCBD.
    Don't think so. Manton skewers UCBD in some epic thread I can't be bothered to locate at the moment, and rightly so. IIRC, UCBD is dressing to show no originality, no individuality, nothing that might raise even the slightest eye-brow ... absolutely nothing that might draw attention to one's self. In short, fade into the background style to the greatest extent possible. That's an entirely different beast. That would mean more restrictive rules than CBD. Say ... no blue suits (they stand out way too much today in a world swimming in charcoal grays) and nothing in grey save for plain worsted cloth (no pattern, no interesting weave, nothing but clean & matted), nothing but small pattern foulards in dark red, mid-to-dark blue, or madder-esque yellow, nothing that suggests any exceptional tailoring work, and nothing but a white shirt, point collar, and black socks. I'm not trying to press those standards into service here. I'm simply pointing out that if conservative is to have any meaning in the office, it needs to stay within classic London dress boundaries. Do not mistake any of this as a case for that sort of restrictive dress code; it's not my style. But perhaps Manton should relabel his standard MCBD (Modern American Conservative Business Dress) - a label that is a bit more precise.
     
  17. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd agree that a derby is best saved for more casual wear, such as a sport coat.

    I think it's funny that I was (as far as I know) the first to assert this on any forum and it provoked a furor. I cited it only as an ancient rule, FWIW, not something that has to be followed today, or that I follow. Though I mostly used to. Not because of the rule but because I didn't like derbies.

    I don't get this. The Italians wear brown with everything.
     
  18. MBreinin

    MBreinin Senior member

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    I don't get this. The Italians wear brown with everything.


    I think he meant he likes the brown, but is on the fence because black would have been the CBD choice, Manton.

    Mike
     
  19. ktrp

    ktrp Senior member

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    Very glad to see this thread!

    I would guess for the average poster/lurker here, the question is not 'what's required' but rather 'what can I get away with while still being highly appropriate for a business environment'.

    It seems to me that there is a difference between what is modern conservative dress in London vs. north american large cities, and perhaps even between cities in north america. It is, for example, my impression that while a few still dislike it, brown shoes are generally accepted with suits as day to day business wear in most of north america, but not in London.

    That sort of difference is extremely useful to understand for those of us who travel, and might otherwise be surprised by shifting standards.
     
  20. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    I think it's funny that I was (as far as I know) the first to assert this on any forum and it provoked a furor. I cited it only as an ancient rule, FWIW, not something that has to be followed today, or that I follow. Though I mostly used to. Not because of the rule but because I didn't like derbies. I don't get this. The Italians wear brown with everything.
    I don't think the rule is ancient at all. I've come across it a number of times in various contemporary essays about classic men's style. The Italians are fine and snappy dressers, but they are not the banner-carriers for conservative business style, at least, as we know it in major metropolitan areas along the DC-Boston line. I say again - I'm not defending the honor of CBD or anything because I violate some tenant of it more often than not. But having seen the president of my institute ridicule a colleague for wearing brown shoes to the office (in a kind-of joking manner but kind-of not), I have a hunch that these "London rules" are not quite as ancient and forgotten as you think Manton, even outside of London.
     

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