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CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Love this^^^

    But, I personally can't get my head around wearing bluchers with anything but the most country-like, tweedy suits.


    Why?
    Someone somewhere decided that oxfords were more formal than bluchers but there's no intrinsic reason for this. You can argue that smooth solid worsteds are more formal than rough patterned tweeds and there is an intrinsic rationale for that, but to me the oxfords vs bluchers thing is based wholly on tradition and not on any more tangible reason.
    I don't like oxfords at all. They might be accepted as more formal but look like nerd shoes to me plus my feet don't like 'em either!
    Now those pictured have a pebble grain which dials down the formality a notch, but in calf they would be no less formal to my unbiased eye.
     
  2. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why?
    Someone somewhere decided that oxfords were more formal than bluchers but there's no intrinsic reason for this. You can argue that smooth solid worsteds are more formal than rough patterned tweeds and there is an intrinsic rationale for that, but to me the oxfords vs bluchers thing is based wholly on tradition and not on any more tangible reason.


    You did see the part where I said "I personally?"

    As to why, to my eye they are less formal than and therefore less appropriate to wear with suits and lend themselves more to odd jackets and trousers.
     
  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    You did see the part where I said "I personally?"

    As to why, to my eye they are less formal than and therefore less appropriate to wear with suits and lend themselves more to odd jackets and trousers.


    Oops! Didn't mean to jump on you personally, I'm more curious to know the origin of the accepted tradition.
     
  4. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oops! Didn't mean to jump on you personally, I'm more curious to know the origin of the accepted tradition.
    No worries. It probably has as much to do with my age which is pushing 50 than anything else. Though, I must admit that sleek bluchers from the likes of Lobb, Cothay etc. look great with a slim cut suit trouser with no cuff. It may not be my style, but it does looks good.
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I hate the look of side tabs. Something is missing in the silhouette without a belt IMO. I ask my tailor to add belt loops every time I bring an OTR suit that has side tabs.

    But how do you really feel?

    We'll just agree to disagree. :^)

    I think there's something fun about side adjusters. You do run the risk of not being able to wear a pair of trousers if there has been waist fluctuation that season, but it's worth it for something different IMO. I get most of my suits done with the ability to wear braces with side adjusters which I'm sure just made Manton gasp for air. I haven't been into belts with suits recently, likely because I don't wear suits too often (once a month) so I prefer them to be unique in that regard.
     
  6. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I use a single piece of fabric that goes hidden through the back of the trousers (like half a belt) with a bit of elastic in it. Very comfortable and my trousers don't fall all all during the day if I wear those.
    Yes, that's what I'm having made at the moment, for a pair of heavy linen trousers. I'm beginning to like the no belt look even for odd trousers. Anyway I'm pretty sure that side tabs are suitable for CBD, or at least the sort of CBD with flair that this thread is about, no?
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Yes, that's what I'm having made at the moment, for a pair of heavy linen trousers. I'm beginning to like the no belt look even for odd trousers.

    Anyway I'm pretty sure that side tabs are suitable for CBD, or at least the sort of CBD with flair that this thread is about, no?


    Agreed all around!
     
  8. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Why?
    Someone somewhere decided that oxfords were more formal than bluchers but there's no intrinsic reason for this. You can argue that smooth solid worsteds are more formal than rough patterned tweeds and there is an intrinsic rationale for that, but to me the oxfords vs bluchers thing is based wholly on tradition and not on any more tangible reason.


    I disagree. As a general principle, something more open is less formal, as it is less habillÃ[​IMG] (e.g. you don't wear your dinner jacket unbuttoned etc.). The open lacing on bluchers/derbies is therefore a signifier of reduced formality. Having said that, there are plenty of bluchers that look fine with suits. But in very formal occasions only black oxfords will do.
     
  9. jbuffone

    jbuffone Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][/quote]

    I'm not much of a loafer guy, and I can't imagine getting a pair in black...but those are great. Fantastic.
    Care to share the make and model?
     
  10. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    I disagree. As a general principle, something more open is less formal, as it is less habillÃ[​IMG] (e.g. you don't wear your dinner jacket unbuttoned etc.). The open lacing on bluchers/derbies is therefore a signifier of reduced formality. Having said that, there are plenty of bluchers that look fine with suits. But in very formal occasions only black oxfords will do.

    Hmm. I see where you ate coming from but still not convinced. If bluchers showed more sock I could understand (eg high vamp loafers could be considered more formal than low vamp with so much sock on display) but the foot is equally covered with Oxford or blucher. The origin of bluchers is supposedly military which is the general origin of black tie formality too. When count blucher introduced his open laced boots I wonder if the other generals go all snooty with him? ' Open lace boots with breeches? What am I, a farmer?[​IMG]'
     
  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    But how do you really feel?

    We'll just agree to disagree. :^)

    Did that come off too strong?

    It's just my personal preference. To each his own of course - nothing inherently wrong or un-CBD about side tabs, I just dislike them.
     
  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Did that come off too strong?

    It's just my personal preference. To each his own of course - nothing inherently wrong or un-CBD about side tabs, I just dislike them.


    Not too strong at all. The word "hate" can have somewhat strong connotations. Definitely a personal choice as is everything.
     
  13. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like that, good use of a checked shirt.
     
  15. Redwoood

    Redwoood Senior member

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    This is good stuff, Mr. Pink.
     
  16. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    Mr. Pink, this looks good.
     
  17. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    ^ CBD.

    [​IMG]

    ^ Not CBD (I think Manton said something like 'not even close' lol).

    I'm starting to think that CBD is whatever Manton says it is (depending on the day of the week)!
     
  18. Navi

    Navi Senior member

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    ^ CBD. [​IMG] ^ Not CBD (I think Manton said something like 'not even close' lol). I'm starting to think that CBD is whatever Manton says it is (depending on the day of the week)!
    The knot and collar look terrible. If that's what you like, fine, but how could you ever think that collar is even remotely CBD? note: I'm not trying to be mean, though that picture left me with a look of horror upon my face. I would wager you'd already be anticipating comments such as my own though.
     
  19. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    The knot and collar look terrible. If that's what you like, fine, but how could you ever think that collar is even remotely CBD?

    note: I'm not trying to be mean, though that picture left me with a look of horror upon my face. I would wager you'd already be anticipating comments such as my own though.


    Oh, lots of members have let me have it. Feel free to continue [​IMG] . Part of it is bad camera angle. Part of it is that it's a pure cutaway. Pure cutaway is CBD in England, and it's been re-hashed several times in this thread that CBD = international CBD. That's all I'm saying.
     
  20. Omar1223

    Omar1223 Senior member

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    manton, is that a white shirt or a really light blue one in the most recent outfit?
     

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