CAVOUR Official Community - Discuss Tailoring, Shirting, Shoes & More - Official Affiliate Thread

[kevinsvindland]

Side adjusters. Belts are impractical and looks ugly with tailored trousers. If you want to keep your trousers up and they're not the correct size use braces. Trousers with belts will never drape well. A well draped pair of trousers should hang from the shoulders like they do with braces.

(if you're seriously considering the suggestions from the last couple of posts, don't forget the pleats. Personal preference: get rid of the back pockets as well. They defeat the purpose of a clean look and aren't useful).

Ouff, no back pockets?
Mamamia.. Il culo della donna.. 😂

 

[DonRaphael]

If the rise was higher, it would indeed make sense to reduce the circumfrence.

As for the side adjusters, I much prefer the overlaping side adjusters, commonly found on Ambrosi, Attolini and Rota trousers.

I think this makes the trouser a little top heavy. (My personal opinion)
View attachment 1820719

Personally, I never take my jacket off if/when I wear tailored trousers so this is a non issue for me. But as long as it's side adjusters and not belt loops, it's fine. Unless it's the extravagant stuff.

 

[hysteria]

If the rise was higher, it would indeed make sense to reduce the circumfrence.

As for the side adjusters, I much prefer the overlaping side adjusters, commonly found on Ambrosi, Attolini and Rota trousers.

I think this makes the trouser a little top heavy. (My personal opinion)
View attachment 1820719

That's a beuatiful pair - is that from Cavour or another maker?
I think the preference for location of adjusters varies a bit. NOt sure that we will find a consensus, probably an even split. I personally find that when the adjusters are not on the waistband, but below it, it disrupts the clean look and feels out of place. I also don't wear jackets that often, so my trouser waistband is exposed. On that note, I'm also a fan of longer waist bands that extend well past th emidline so that when y ou do wear a jacket, the button doesn't show. A singular belt-loop like that grey trouser is perfect. I find short waistbands to be a bit odd looking. That trouser is actually perfect IMO lol (with the exception of forward facing pleats - reverse is better), very curious to konw where it's from.

 

[DonRaphael]

Ouff, no back pockets?
Mamamia.. Il culo della donna.. 😂

Hahaha, I think that's how classic men's trousers were cut back in the days actually, or at least it wasn't uncommon. Not sure though, but I think I've read that somewhere.

The legendary Voxsartoria (and his trouser fit) and the picture I've used as a blue print for all my tailored trousers.

 

[kevinsvindland]

That's a beuatiful pair - is that from Cavour or another maker?
I think the preference for location of adjusters varies a bit. NOt sure that we will find a consensus, probably an even split. I personally find that when the adjusters are not on the waistband, but below it, it disrupts the clean look and feels out of place.

This is from Berg & Berg.
Beautiful trousers indeed, but I do not like the side adjusters.
With this position, I would rather just strip them away.

For them to function optimally, an overlaping position is the best.

However, I thing this is largely a matter of personal taste and preference. 🤷‍♂️

 

[kevinsvindland]

Hahaha, I think that's how classic men's trousers were cut back in the days actually, or at least it wasn't uncommon. Not sure though, but I think I've read that somewhere.

The legendary Voxsartoria (and his trouser fit) and the picture I've used as a blue print for all my tailored trousers.
View attachment 1820720

We've all seen that picture before, and it is indeed a great fitting pair.

However, the style is also from a time where one would regard braces as underwear, and to show them would be considered rude and un-gentlemanly.

In a modern (European) office environment, maybe 8% will wear a jacket all day. The rest will hang it on the chair and walk to the coffee machine with no jacket.

 

[WhyUEarly]

Please keep the back pockets

 

[DonRaphael]

We've all seen that picture before, and it is indeed a great fitting pair.

However, the style is also from a time where one would regard braces as underwear, and to show them would be considered rude and un-gentlemanly.

In a modern (European) office environment, maybe 8% will wear a jacket all day. The rest will hang it on the chair and walk to the coffee machine with no jacket.

They should not be served coffee.

 

[BananaKing]

With the move to more casual attire (with odd jackets or no jacket wearing at all) I do think a belt helps to give a more interesting break between pants and shirt. It can be something to centre or ground the outfit. Also can add subtle visual interest and options to play with proportions depending on belt width/material/buckle/colour.

In my work place I wear chinos and a shirt (often a button down of some kind) and it is no place for a sports coat. I found my Cavour side adjuster chinos are much less worn than other chinos with belt loops. The belt-less chinos feels like they really want a jacket. And the belt as an accessory, to me, makes the jacket-less outfit far more comfortable and complete. And as mentioned I feel I have more options to play with colour, style and proportions. Instead of 3 elements (shoes/pants/shirt) I have 4.

 

[Marshak]

Hahaha, I think that's how classic men's trousers were cut back in the days actually, or at least it wasn't uncommon. Not sure though, but I think I've read that somewhere.

The legendary Voxsartoria (and his trouser fit) and the picture I've used as a blue print for all my tailored trousers.
View attachment 1820720

That's the perfect cut from Steed and it's indeed a reference for classic pants. However it supposes a comfortable jacket to reach a visual balance between top and bottom.

 

[DonRaphael]

That's the perfect cut from Steed and it's indeed a reference for classic pants. However it supposes a comfortable jacket to reach a visual balance between top and bottom.

Of course. That's why I said that's my personal preference and added that I never take my jacket off when wearing tailored trousers.

As I said, I get it. It's not everyone's cup of tea. But if a man can dream...

 

[Marshak]

Fine, samples ordered for FW23


I need a 60% sellthrough on 200 pairs before the sale starts.
You guys better make sure they perform well..

Great. Ready to take part to the testing program if you need guinea pigs 😆.

Concerning the side adjusters vs belt loops issue, I'd say belt loops with all casual trousers (particularly cottons and chinos like, flat or pleated), side adjusters for suits trousers one or double pleated with formal fabrics like worsted. It's a formula I've adopted with my bespoke orders and it works well.

Regarding the B&B trousers, they have a great leg line and general balance but the strip of the adjusters is a bit long. It has a tendency to underline badly the waistband when the adjusters are tightened to the max like loose ears. Adjusters signature must be discrete.

 

[Marshak]

We've all seen that picture before, and it is indeed a great fitting pair.

However, the style is also from a time where one would regard braces as underwear, and to show them would be considered rude and un-gentlemanly.

In a modern (European) office environment, maybe 8% will wear a jacket all day. The rest will hang it on the chair and walk to the coffee machine with no jacket.

Fishtail is optional. There's nothing better than high-waisted pants when you get up from your office chair to get a coffee or talk to colleagues, compared to low-waisted pants that slip off your waist and show your belly. You feel strong.

 

[St1X]

My 2 cents.
Side adjusters over belt loops. Belt loops are only good for chins and jeans.
I prefer side adjusters to be positioned in between the waistband and the body of the trousers since I like to have a few cm of room in my waistband for that dinner & drinks evening. If I fasten side adjusters that are positioned on a waistband I always get fabric under them slipping down and the top of the metal bracket rubbing against my body. Not good!
High rise trousers should always come with braces buttons as a normal male body has a waist and there's nothing that will hold the trousers high, they'll slip down.
I'd also prefer a wider waist band than Cavour's standard one and I would really want an extended fastening tab to hide that button when wearing jacket unbuttoned. Right now Cavour's trousers look incredibly boring and I am not interested in picking them (or suits) even on sale. Albeit sometimes Cavour has amazing fabrics in their suits. Trousers totally kill it for me. Just personal preference

 

[Zerase]

I won’t ramble about how wider and higher rise trousers look and feel as Cavour cater to people who still enjoys their slim fit medium rise trousers. One thing that would improve the trousers is an extended waist band with one (1) belt loop. Google the now defunct brand Eidos, Sal trouser to get an idea of what I mean.