CAVOUR Official Community - Discuss Tailoring, Shirting, Shoes & More - Official Affiliate Thread

[Aquafortis]

unless you have a unsually short neck, I would not consider the collars higher than normal. I'll leave it to Kevin to speak to the details....

I wouldn't be too concerned about a high'ish collar. I actually think that taller collars can generally look better, at least IMHO, and I don't have a particularly tall neck. I've found that the 1/2" of exposed shirt collar above a jacket collar, is a very subjective rule, and have some Finamore shirts with pretty tall (2") collars that work very well.

 

[kevinsvindland]

Thanks again Kevin. Super pleased with them.

Do you know what Bontoni's workshop finishing process is - I assume they some apply polish/wax before shipping out?

They do all sorts of funny things to them. Some are hand painted, some are burnt, some have characteristics from the tanneries. Different methods to achieve different results. And then they are all treated with wax before they are shipped off to us.
They put alot of emphasis on finishing, which is why they look so damn good.

 

[kevinsvindland]

Thx for the reply!

In general, would you say the Sartoria line of shirts fit slimmer or looser than the regular line?

If anything maybe marginally looser, but I wear the same size in both, and wear them all on rotation. They both fit me well enough that I can forget about them and get on with my day.

Our fit is based on the factory Slim fit, with minor changes. So think typical Neapolitan, and somewhere in the middle of the fit spectrum. Not tight, not wide.

 

[RickyTakhar]

The Valstar jackets are great, for sure. And also carry a nice pricetag.

The main reason for the difference in price is that Valstar makes quite a few more jackets, in a big factory. Ours has a very high grade of suede, and is cut by hand in a small atelier. More comparable to Isaia or Stoffa, as they are made by the same guy, named Franco.
View attachment 1367326

Would love to see additions to the blog post on such things, also descriptions on the regular shirting to show fabrics used etc. Great job on the latest Cavour collection!

 

[kevinsvindland]

Also curious about collar stance/height. Looks like both the base Cavour as well as the Satoria line have fairly high collars? @kevinsvindland Do you know what the height is on your shirt collars in cm or inches?

The collars on the normal shirts are 3,2 cm , and the Sartoria shirts are 3,5if my memory serves me right.
Both pretty standard I would say, not very low, nor very high.

 

[kevinsvindland]

Would love to see additions to the blog post on such things, also descriptions on the regular shirting to show fabrics used etc. Great job on the latest Cavour collection!

I’d like to see that myself. We currently have a writer on staff, so I guess Sebastian and I need to be better at taking pictures and telling stories from our buying and production trips.

Thanks for the Kind words.
Very glad you like the collection! We always try our best to tweak and improve the Cavour lineup as much as possible.

 

[Lindrian]

How do bontonis fit? Wide? Long? Short? High instep? Would UK9 translate to 43?

 

[razl]

We always buy Bontoni and Saint Crispin’s with trees. Not sure if it is a «standard» thing. But it is an option, and it feels like the right thing to do.

That's interesting; I didn't realize that the vendor had the option, I naively thought the manufacturer "always" did or did not do that (either across the entire line or for certain models). I never realized that one vendor might have them while another may not. In that case, you should really note that in the description.

 

[Kochegar]

Hi @kevinsvindland !
You are working on Cavour FW 2020, right?
Could I suggest someting for future footwear styles?
Is it possible to make Cavour shoes / boots in casual style with rugged Vibram lug sole?
Like the look plus they are very grippy and comfortable to walk on.

Some pictures from C&J for inspiration.

 

[Aquafortis]

They do all sorts of funny things to them. Some are hand painted, some are burnt, some have characteristics from the tanneries. Different methods to achieve different results. And then they are all treated with wax before they are shipped off to us.
They put alot of emphasis on finishing, which is why they look so damn good.

Sun came out here today and had to take these new Bontoni's out for a spin. Thanks again Kevin. Amazing out of the box comfort. Paired with some casual Attolini trousers - probably as casual as I'd go with these...but maybe with the right denim.

 

[Gabru]

Sun came out here today and had to take these new Bontoni's out for a spin. Thanks again Kevin. Amazing out of the box comfort. Paired with some casual Attolini trousers - probably as casual as I'd go with these...but maybe with the right denim.

View attachment 1367680

These look great, did you find them true to size ?

 

[Aquafortis]

These look great, did you find them true to size ?

Thanks, and yes. Review this post a few pages back in this thread where @razl and I were discussing sizing as neither of us had tired Bontoni before. You'll see that I was debating between the 42.5 and 43, and I'm glad I did not simply go with the sizing conversion listed on the Cavour page for this pair. If I had, I would have bought the 43 which would have ended up too big.

 

[Gabru]

Thanks that’s very helpful , so it’s more TTS.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Unboxed the oatmeal wool-linen hopsack sport coat yesterday. Glad to report on my overall satisfaction.
View attachment 1365250

The cut is a classic Neapolitan one with spalla camiccia (no shirring), broad lapels and slightly higher gorge, clean torso but not without some room, finished at a slightly shorter (but still decent) length.

Curiously, i find that the point-to-point shoulder measurement is 47cm on my size 50, which is bit different from the 49.6cm said on the site. So it’s tightly hugging the shoulders, where i expected it to be slightly extended.

View attachment 1365252

The oatmeal is on the slightly colder end, making it smart and versatile. The wool-linen hopsack lends it some lovely texture, which is welcome in sport coats. It may wrinkle as it wears in, but hey, I guess only Godot will care.

Breathability (which is supposed to be a big gift from this fabric) remains to be tested through the heat of tropical summer of HK (when we can go outside free from worries).


View attachment 1365254
View attachment 1365256

Make wise, generally speaking it has most of the key functional boxes ticked, with minimal decorative details (or fuss?). I can touch and feel the lightweight canvas directly from the inside (cos it’s self-lined in the front, meaning i can feel the canvas inside), extending to about the position of the lower end of the patch pockets. Can’t see the padding of lapel and chest but at this price point i assume it would be machine padded. Hand attached sleeve linings, though not to the most meticulous standard, are certainly functional in allowing for better movement. The rest of it are mostly machine made (e.g. button hole), done neatly.

Overall definitely recommended for those of us who care more about a clean Neapolitan cut, some wonderfully boring (reads versatile) fabric, and function-over-decoration makes.

Again, big ups to the chaps at Cavour who are making it possible for us to enjoy these wonderful pieces!

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

Just a fit check: Would it be more flattering if I size up to a 52 from the current 50? It’s currently in a more hugging fit, and I am thinking if a slightly extended shoulder is more desirable.

Probably @kevinsvindland and others could opine?

Much appreciated!

 

[Betelgeuse]

In case someone is interested, I need to fund purchasing the 8.5 UK: https://www.styleforum.net/buyandsell/cavour-brown-suede-chukkas-9uk.21239/