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Casual Shoulder-Season Fabrics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Testudo_Aubreii, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Shoulder season is tough for the man who wants to wear a jacket in a casual fabric (i.e., one with real surface texture). In cold weather, tweed, woollen flannel, lambswool, Shetland, and the hairier worsted flannels are no-brainers; and there are corduroy jackets for those who like them. In hot weather, we have linen, cotton poplin, seersucker, and lightweight high-twists that get the casualizing effects of wrinkles.

    But what about shoulder season? This is the perfect time for smooth worsteds, but what's a guy to do who works in an environment where a jacket in smooth worsted is too much for everyday wear? Some people say the hairier kinds of hopsack, others say wool-linen blends to get the casual effect of wrinkles, and others say worsted flannel. I guess the more burlapy 15 oz frescos and such might be good too. I've toyed with the idea of something funky, like a lighter cavalry twill in smooth tricotene/elastique weave: I figure the ribs will give it visible texture.

    Many iGents seeking casualness in shoulder season go for smoother fabrics with bolder patterns. But I like to keep it toned-down, so I avoid bold patterns unless they're on really textured fabrics (cold-weather hairy fabrics or linen). B&W glen plaid, B&W herringbone. houndstooth, or single-windowpane in muted color are about the boldest I'll go unless it's on tweed or the like.

    So what's a guy to do who wants casual fabrics for jackets in shoulder season, and isn't keen on bold patterns? Any advice much appreciated.
     


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Heavy Irish linen is warm enough for me in 60ish weather.
     


  3. pendragon

    pendragon Senior member

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    What is shoulder season?
     


  4. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    "shoulder season?"
     


  5. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Unbel defined it pretty well. Let's say it's weather of 60-73 Fahrenheit, or 15 to 23 Celsius. Too warm for the cold-weather fabrics I mention, and too cold for the hot-weather fabrics. Most of the guys here will go for smooth worsteds in that kind of weather, but I like more casual fabrics.

    Good to know, Unbel. The only linen I have right now is only about 340g. I've yet to try the 400g stuff. Hopefully soon.
     


  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    All highly subjective, as people feel comfortable at different temps, but I wore Irish linen today in DC - been around 60 F all day - and have been totally comfortable.
     


  7. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Blazers, heavy linen, light tweed all work.

    Personally I would only wear a jacket in "shoulder season" - highs between 50 and 75. Colder and I would wear proper outerwear, warmer and I'd prefer just a shirt. Don't really find jacketings on either extreme to have much utility.
     


  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    One of the options, as I mentioned, is wool-linen. I don't know why iGents hardly ever discuss this fabric. Here's one of the few useful threads on it, with good pics of olddog/oldtrix in a wool-linen pinstripe.

    Anybody know where to buy 12 oz wool-linen by the meter?
     


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