Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[Bespoke DJP]

New in, William Lockie Gordon geelong cardigan in Lapis.

View attachment 1884873 View attachment 1884874 View attachment 1884875 View attachment 1884876

It's a EU 48 size, 53 cm pit to pit. The sleeve length might be somehow skimpy, but I learnt to stretched it a bit with some ironing work.

That's another nice one for your collection my dear fellow!

And as per a past discussion, it is a Super Geelong, not just a Geelong!


Best,

Dimitris


PS
Bought from that shop in Berlin?

 

[DorianGreen]

That's another nice one for your collection my dear fellow!

And as per a past discussion, it is a Super Geelong, not just a Geelong!


Best,

Dimitris


PS
Bought from that shop in Berlin?

Thanks! Yes, bought in the same shop, and of course it's Super Geelong.

I wonder if there's a correspondence between European and UK sizes, for example 48=40, or instead they have different measurements. I tend towards the first supposition.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thanks! Yes, bought in the same shop, and of course it's Super Geelong.

I wonder if there's a correspondence between European and UK sizes, for example 48=40, or instead they have different measurements. I tend towards the first supposition.

As we have stated during the Fall '22 discussion, there are size inconsistencies, therefore analogies are not straightforward, especially among knitwear made by different materials.

Before the matter Geelong vs Super Geelong became clear, I had a contact with an on-line vendor in your country (very helpful & polite) about a William Lockie high-neck, 7-button cardigan, named Lomond.

As it was (ex-post) proved to be a Geelong garment but marketed as a Super Geelong one (with citation of all Super Geelong's properties), perhaps by mistake or misinformation from the part of the vendors, the size EU48 which corresponds to UK40 that I was contemplating had a chest (armpit-to-armpit) measured by them at 54cm, which corresponds more to a EU50. However, and though I do not have anything in Geelong (New Lambswool), it is to my understanding that they generally have a more relaxed, generous fit, whereas in the case of Super Geelong, garments are more fitted, and this might be the reason for the garment's actual size measurements.

We all also remember my dear @DorianGreen your own case with the William Lockie Oxton Sport Shirt, by William Crabtree of Marylebone x Permanent Style!


Best,

Dimitris

 

[TheRolls321]

Agnona crewneck and Massimo Alba brushed 1/4 zip Cashmere sweaters inbound from Mr. P's 80% off sale. Haven't owned cashmere from either brand, but given both houses' reputations and saving 80%, I am looking forward to the sweaters. I do have an Alpaca/Wool blend dark teal lightweight shawl collar from Massimo Alba that I bought in 2015. It has withstood 4 years of university backpacks and shenanigans and has carried me well into my 20s.

 

[reidd]

IMO alpaca and camelhair are both very underrated and underpriced especially compared to modern cashmere.

 

[TheRolls321]

IMO alpaca and camelhair are both very underrated and underpriced especially compared to modern cashmere.

In addition to the Massimo Alba alpaca sweater, I have a Zanone baby camelhair reversible cable knit (kinda cool, red cable one side, plain wheat color when reversed) that I got in 2014. Holds up like a champ.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

IMO alpaca and camelhair are both very underrated and underpriced especially compared to modern cashmere.

What a coincidence my dear fellow as far as camelhair is concerned!

I reckon that no knitwear will be presently ordered by vendors, and private individuals' MTOs may need up to 12 weeks for William Lockie production AFAIK. So, with the maximum delivery date well into the Spring, I am thinking about cable-knit camelhair knitwear in the material's natural (undyed) color for FW '23-24.

Specifically, I am quite fond of the William Lockie cable-knit crewneck and V-neck made for Ben Silver in the US (please see image below), and I am craving for a cable-knit camelhair waistcoat in its natural (undyed) color.

There are other interesting iterations as well; an AV of this Forum had ordered camelhair cable-knit shawl-collar cardigans in the camelhair's undyed color from William Lockie (please see following image). This may always be successfully repeated, and I think that it might be a good proposition for current Forum AVs to contemplate, when the time comes for their forthcoming FW knitwear orders.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[double00]

IMO alpaca and camelhair are both very underrated and underpriced especially compared to modern cashmere.

underrated here no doubt , i'd guess in the markets where those animals abound they get due respect . it's awesome that alpaca has grown in popularity as a yard animal here in the us .

i love camelid fiber . you get a longer staple length and very comparable micron / feel and way more reliable to raise / source .

 

[St1X]

There are other interesting iterations as well; an AV of this Forum had ordered camelhair cable-knit shawl-collar cardigans in the camelhair's undyed color from William Lockie (please see following image). This may always be successfully repeated, and I think that it might be a good proposition for current Forum AVs to contemplate, when the time comes for their forthcoming FW knitwear orders.

Best,

Dimitris

That cardigan looks mind blowing! Who sells it?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

That cardigan looks mind blowing! Who sells it?

Indeed, it really is!

It was way before I "discovered" this thread in the Forum, which led me to the Scottish heritage knitwear, and for the moment to William Lockie, they were ordered by Kirby Allison (still an AV) back in the day, I presume everything is long gone.

This is exactly why I am presently making humble efforts to inspire current AVs, not only to embrace the cable-knit (an absolute favorite of mine for decades), but also to contemplate the combination of the cable-knit construction with camelhair, an extremely handsome and luxurious proposition.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[stifler]

Agnona crewneck and Massimo Alba brushed 1/4 zip Cashmere sweaters inbound from Mr. P's 80% off sale. Haven't owned cashmere from either brand, but given both houses' reputations and saving 80%, I am looking forward to the sweaters. I do have an Alpaca/Wool blend dark teal lightweight shawl collar from Massimo Alba that I bought in 2015. It has withstood 4 years of university backpacks and shenanigans and has carried me well into my 20s.

Agnona is top notch. How is it?

 

[stifler]

How is Brioni cashmere? I'm eyeing this sweater from Brioni:

https://www.brioni.com/en/us/pr/beige-sustainable-cashmere-sweater-UMQ90LO2K072100

 

[SartoriaModerna]

What a coincidence my dear fellow as far as camelhair is concerned!

I reckon that no knitwear will be presently ordered by vendors, and private individuals' MTOs may need up to 12 weeks for William Lockie production AFAIK. So, with the maximum delivery date well into the Spring, I am thinking about cable-knit camelhair knitwear in the material's natural (undyed) color for FW '23-24.

Specifically, I am quite fond of the William Lockie cable-knit crewneck and V-neck made for Ben Silver in the US (please see image below), and I am craving for a cable-knit camelhair waistcoat in its natural (undyed) color.

There are other interesting iterations as well; an AV of this Forum had ordered camelhair cable-knit shawl-collar cardigans in the camelhair's undyed color from William Lockie (please see following image). This may always be successfully repeated, and I think that it might be a good proposition for current Forum AVs to contemplate, when the time comes for their forthcoming FW knitwear orders.

Best,

Dimitris

The camel cable V-neck from Ben Silver looks really nice, thank you for sharing it!
Hope I can find something similar within EU, as import duties are quite hefty

 

[SartoriaModerna]

New in is a 4-ply crewneck from Eric Bompard in camel color bought on sale with -30% discount. This brand is relatively unknown here on the forum, but it's the reference brand for cashmere knits in France. The brand is widely dubbed as the "king of cashmere" in France, but to be fair, there are only a handful brands in this niche active there, so it has to be taken with a grain of salt.

Yarn is supplied by Erdos (the Chinese monopolist in cashmere) and in fact, Erdos reportedly owns 20% stake in Eric Bompard. I'm personally a believer in corporate favoritism, so the yarn supply could be of privileged quality for Eric Bompard.

I also love how the camel is toned down a bit and it really goes well with casual jeans too and not only chino's.

 

[fabricateurialist]

New in is a 4-ply crewneck from Eric Bompard in camel color bought on sale with -30% discount. This brand is relatively unknown here on the forum, but it's the reference brand for cashmere knits in France. The brand is widely dubbed as the "king of cashmere" in France, but to be fair, there are only a handful brands in this niche active there, so it has to be taken with a grain of salt.

Yarn is supplied by Erdos (the Chinese monopolist in cashmere) and in fact, Erdos reportedly owns 20% stake in Eric Bompard. I'm personally a believer in corporate favoritism, so the yarn supply could be of privileged quality for Eric Bompard.

I also love how the camel is toned down a bit and it really goes well with casual jeans too and not only chino's. View attachment 1888465 View attachment 1888467 View attachment 1888469 View attachment 1888471

love the color, your first piece from Bompard ?

any notes on other french cashmere brands ? I'm only familiar with Allude, which I bought a couple of, maybe ten years ago, and they are holding up just as well as Cucinelli and JoE from that period